tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-41550395448205215482024-03-15T21:10:24.031-04:00Hugh`s bicycle blogUnknownnoreply@blogger.comBlogger270125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4155039544820521548.post-72350533442661385432017-05-30T23:22:00.002-04:002017-05-30T23:43:21.268-04:00Mongoose 24 inch 21 Speed Girls Mountain Bike <div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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Whenever I don't feel like working on a department store bike. I remember a time about 34 years ago when I needed my front wheel trued on my Sears 10 Speed. (it may have been a 12 speed) Anyway, when I took it to the local bike shop in Rochester Mi I got the "bike snob treatment". I remember this total ass telling me my Sears 12 speed was not the sort of bike they work on. And then he quoted me some ridiculous price for estimated labor to true the wheel. Knowing what I know now, I am sure it would have only taken a few minutes to true the slight wobble out of the wheel.<br />
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I sprayed a little White Lightning Clean Streak on the rear derailleur and cleaned it up a bit. I then sprayed it and the freewheel with Tri Flo and also sprayed the chain (as I rotated it on the stand) with the Tri Flo. Then I wiped off the excess with a rag. The real wheel was badly in need of some truing. I tried to "true it up a bit" on the bike (with the air let out of the tire) that wasn't getting it. So I removed the wheel and brought it inside with my truing stand. My vision is pretty bad now so I really needed to flood the room with light so I could true the wheel correctly .<br />
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Well I managed to get the wheel trued up pretty good and put it back on the bike and re-set the brake after installing a new cable. The 7 speed grip shift for the rear derailleur worked fine, so I left it alone. But the Grip Shift for the front derailleur was locked up tight. I could move the front derailleur by hand. So I disconnected the cable and removed it from the housing. I thought maybe it was just stuck inside the housing due to excessive corrosion. The grip shift still wouldn't budge, so I removed it.<br />
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As I have done in the past I replaced the 3 speed grip shift with this salvaged thumb shift lever. I found it in a box that contained some salvaged shift levers of different sorts. It worked just fine. I thought I should check e bay latter for a replacement, which I did. A new 3 speed grip shift with cable delivered to my door for 13.00. Air Cav Paul (my friend who brought me this kids bike) said go ahead for 13.00 we'll just replace it. Which I did latter. Sorry no pics of that.<br />
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As is typical of department store bikes none of the bloody cables had crimp-on tips, and they were all frayed on the ends. The new cables got new tips of course and the other two cables got trimmed and new tips installed.<br />
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There was no front reflector so I found one in the "old reflector box" and put it o the stem.<br />
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Once the new grip shift was installed I trimmed the cable and crimped on a cable tip. At just under 200 lbs I had my doubts about test riding the bike to make sure everything was working. I went ahead and rode it just far enough to go through all the gears and make sure the brakes were ok. The brakes screeched a bit but they do work. I didn't have any "threaded post" brake pads so I told Air Cav Paul to order a set. And if he needs me to do so, I will install them and adjust the brakes "free of charge".<br />
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I think I took this pic before I installed the new grip shift for the front derailleur. Doesn't really matter, you can't see the bloody thing anyway. With my vision not being anything like normal I have learned to slow down, and be real careful where I set things down. A few weeks ago Paul brought me his old bike for a few adjustments. I don't look for bike work anymore. But if it comes in I'll do it "if I can". I will be around the house more in the near future, so I expect I'll be starting some sort of bike project soon.<br />
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Above: This is Jimmy. He was one of our guests for Memorial Day. His back legs don't work anymore, so he has this cart. He is a very happy dog and he loves people. When I first heard about his injury I thought, "maybe they should just put him down". But after seeing how happy he is. And seeing how much he loves his cart and his owners.. Well I think Jimmy is doing real fine, just the way he is. Sometimes you can learn a lot from a dog.
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Above: A minute on the Duck Lake Pines path today 05-30-17<br />
Until next time, Please Ride Safe and Remember to Always Rescue, Restore and Recycle.
Cheers, Hugh
Unknownnoreply@blogger.com6tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4155039544820521548.post-14000887232162872612014-06-30T19:39:00.000-04:002017-05-30T23:08:59.066-04:00 FELT Q 720 Mountain BikeHello and Welcome,
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Recently I had the pleasure of doing some work on a FELT Q 720 Mountain Bike. I remember seeing a FELT on Mackinac Island with Hydraulic disc brakes and I was really impressed. As some of you already know I work on lots of...... let's say "less expensive" <a category="sports & outdoors" href="https://www.blogger.com/null" type="amzn">bicycles</a> So this was a real treat. And as it turns out, an educational experience as well.<br />
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Above: Let's start with the chain. I got a call from my friend Brian (the owner of the FELT) early one evening. His chain had broke and He was stranded. He wanted to know if I had a chain in stock. It turns out I did have a "<a category="sports & outdoors" href="https://www.blogger.com/null" type="amzn">Shimano Multi Speed Chain</a>" in stock, so off I went. I replaced the chain. After replacing the chain Brian told me it was skipping on the smaller cogs or (higher gears). I asked him which cogs he typically rode on and I think he said the bottom three. So thinking the cassette is worn (I already knew the bike had not been serviced in quite a while) I asked him to shift to the larger cogs. When he did the chain stopped skipping and seemed to be working ok. So I came to the conclusion that the <a category="sports & outdoors" href="https://www.blogger.com/null" type="amzn">9 speed cassette</a> was shot. I told Brian he could order one from me if He wanted to. (via my Online Bike Shop) He said that would be fine. So I told him I would go home and check stock and make sure I had his cassette in stock. I called Brian to make sure I had the cassette with the correct cog sizes. I told him I would label his cassette (in the online bike shop) so he would know it was the correct cassette. I believe I labeled it "Brian Order This One"..lol <br />
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Above: Here is the old cassette which I de greased using <a category="sports & outdoors" href="https://www.blogger.com/null" type="amzn">White Lightning Clean Streak</a>. I will be cleaning up these cogs and then Brian will have some spare cogs as half of the cogs look to be fine.
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Above: This is when the repair became frustrating. At this point I had cleaned up and lubed the rear derailleur which was really gunked up. The axle, cones and bearings have all been replaced. I also replaced the derailleur cable and the short cable housing at the derailleur. The inner workings of the <a category="sports & outdoors" href="https://www.blogger.com/null" type="amzn">Rapid Fire Shifter</a> have been cleaned then sprayed with a silicone based lubricant. And I had replaced the cassette with the new one. But the damn chain was still dancing all over the smaller cogs and the damn thing was still skipping like crazy. I set the index with the chain on one of the center cogs, this did not help a bit. So I removed the largest chain ring and headed of to Cycle Therapy to get it checked. I was fortunate that Ernie "the proprietor" just happened to be there.<br />
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Above: Just happened to find this pic of Ernie on Google. Ernie and his Team at Cycle Therapy in Waterford Mi are Great. They have helped me out on more than one occasion. Ernie said the chain ring appeared to have plenty of miles left on it, and He didn't think that was the problem. So I told him step by step all the work I had done. At first Ernie suspected the <a category="sports & outdoors" href="https://www.blogger.com/null" type="amzn">rear derailleur</a> might be the problem. That is until I mentioned the "Shimano multi speed chain". Ernie asked me, Is it a nine speed cassette? Yes it is, I said. Then He asked, Did the chain package say those exact words Multi Speed Chain? Again I answered Yes. Ernie said That is your problem. He went on to explain that a nine speed cassette like the one I am working on requires a nine speed chain. I said, That's gotta be it! That explains why the chain won't settle down, even though everything says it should be working fine.
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Finally a solution! Ok, I install the new <a category="sports & outdoors" href="https://www.blogger.com/null" type="amzn">KMC 9 speed chain</a>(above) and it seems to be working fine. It is now staying on the cogs and seems to be good to go. Although it seems to be louder than normal. Like it is barely fitting over the teeth on the front <a category="sports & outdoors" href="https://www.blogger.com/null" type="amzn">chain ring</a>. I'm thinking maybe that is the wear on the chain ring. They said the chain ring did show "some wear". So I test rode the bike, and the bloody chain bound up on something and broke. CHEESE and FRICKEN RICE!!!! W.T.H.!!!! So I calm down and get on the computer and locate the specs. (finally)
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Now I call down to CYCLE THERAPY and ask Chris (not the Chris I know, the other Chris) If he has the <a category="sports & outdoors" href="https://www.blogger.com/null" type="amzn"> Shimano CN-HG53 Chain</a> in stock. They do, "Excellent please leave it at the register and I`ll be down to pick it up straight away". Finally a solution! & it worked! The chain is smooth and much quieter and she is now shifting wonderfully. Thank You Bicycle Gods and Thank You internet. And Thank you Ernie for pointing me in the right direction.
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<iframe allowfullscreen="" frameborder="0" height="315" src="//www.youtube.com/embed/dMHi1ZcVAY8" width="560"></iframe>
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Above: This is the first replacement chain (multi speed Shimano) floating around "particularly on the smallest three cogs" (7,8 & 9) Watch the chain on the smaller cogs. At this point I was getting frustrated. It was shortly after this that I removed the large chain ring and went to see Ernie at Cycle Therapy in Waterford. You can hear the frustration in my voice at the end of the video.
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Above: Ok.... let's talk about something that went well. Brian's front cones were shot. I had the bearings in stock, and Tree Fort Bikes in Ypsilanti, Mi had the cones in stock. Also the front wheel "trued up" perfectly. I used Brian's <a category="sports & outdoors" href="https://www.blogger.com/null" type="amzn">Park Tool Poly Lube</a> on both hubs. The front wheel trued so well that.. the last thing that rubbed the caliper pin on the truing stand was the manufactures sticker on the rim! And the sticker was not peeling off.
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Above: Top Brian's rear <a category="sports & outdoors" href="https://www.blogger.com/null" type="amzn">axle and cones</a>, the bottom axle and cones show normal wear. If you blow up this pic you can really see the difference. I was able to order the cones online for the rear axle as well. But at this moment I really can't remember from where...lol
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Above: I had not planed to blog about this bike, so I never took any "before" pics. (my bad) So here is some of the work done on the rear end of the bike. First I rebuilt the hub replacing the cones, bearings & axle. Next the wheel went on the truing <a category="sports & outdoors" href="https://www.blogger.com/null" type="amzn">wheel truing stand</a>. Sometimes you can tell if the wheel has been worked on before. I noticed that where the wheel was rubbing the pin indicating the spokes on the opposite side needed to be tightened, those <a category="sports & outdoors" href="https://www.blogger.com/null" type="amzn">spokes</a> were already really tight. This tells me that someone may have already tried to straighten or true this wheel. So I check the spokes for tightness on the same side that the wheel is rubbing the pins (wheel truing stand) They are really tight as well. So I loosen the spoke or spokes (just a wee bit) near the rub allowing the wheel to be pulled away from the *pin*.(*pin* refers to the caliper pins on the stand that the wheel will rub if they are set close and the wheel is not straight) Also I was able to tighten the spokes on the apposing side just a wee bit.
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<iframe allowfullscreen="" frameborder="0" height="315" src="//www.youtube.com/embed/bcZ1jjB_AdQ" width="560"></iframe>
Above: This gentleman has made the best wheel truing tutorial video I have ever seen. I don't think I have ever seen anyone explain the process better than he does. So I share this with you. And hope you enjoy it as much as I did.
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Above: Here are the other things that were done to the rear half of the drive train. Violette Arrow ~> Installed the new 9 speed cassette.... White Arrows ~> Cleaned and lubed the entire rear derailleur paying particular attention to all the pivot points that connect the Upper Knuckle to the Outer Parrelogram which connects to the Lower knuckle..... Red Arrows ~> De-Ggreased and lubed the upper and lower <a category="sports & outdoors" href="https://www.blogger.com/null" type="amzn">Jockey wheels</a> (huge chunks of crud cleaned off the jockey wheels) And cleaned the inner and outer Jockey Wheel Cage plates....... Blue Arrow~> Replaced the Chain.....how many times? lol "I'm not taken the rap for the second chain! ".......Green Arrow........made up a new short cable housing at the rear derailleur......Yellow Arrow ~> New Jag-Wire Shift Cable....Orange Arrow ~> cleaned up rims, spokes and pie-plate....Pink Arrows ~> Installed new inner tube and tire.
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Above: Here I am cleaning away excess de-greaser before spraying the Rapid Fire shifter internals with <a category="sports & outdoors" href="https://www.blogger.com/null" type="amzn">Tri Flo</a> (a silicone based lubricant) I also sprayed into the shift cable receiver hole with a de-greaser (Clean Streak) and after some drying time.. some Tri Flo lubricant as well. Cleaning and lubing your Rapid Fire Shifters will greatly improve their performance. (if they're just not shifting as well as they once did)
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Above: The <a category="sports & outdoors" href="https://www.blogger.com/null" type="amzn">front derailleur</a> would not even react when I first tried to shift it. After spraying and brushing it twice with Clean Streak and lubricating it with Tri Flo it seemed to work fine. I replaced the cable since I had removed the original cable to clean the Shifter internals. I probably could have re used it, it actually looked pretty good. But cables are cheap, so I went ahead and replaced it anyway.
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Above: The <a category="sports & outdoors" href="https://www.blogger.com/null" type="amzn">pedals</a> were shot so I put this cheap set on for Brian to use until he orders a new set. Hopefully he wont throw these away, I could always use them on some kids Department Store bike.
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Above: I couldn't be more pleased with how the front hub and wheel came out. There was a lot of play in the front hub when I got the bike. I expected the hub to be destroyed inside, but it was not all that bad. I cleaned it out and replaced the cones and bearings and then it spun real smooth. And it trued up beautifully. Removing the discs is really easy. One of my <a category="sports & outdoors" href="https://www.blogger.com/null" type="amzn">Park free wheel removal tools</a> fit the retainer ring perfectly.
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Above: Brian has the FELT Q 720 back now, he is planing on installing a better rear rack. Also I think he has already ordered new pedals. Brian says he thinks their is a problem with the crank. I told him I am really not comfortable taking apart his <a category="sports & outdoors" href="https://www.blogger.com/null" type="amzn">Hollow tech crank</a>. We plan on hauling the bike to Cycle Therapy to have the crank serviced. Hopefully I can see first hand how this crank works and how to remove it and replace it. I would rather the first Hollow Tech crank I work on belong to me.<br />
Here are some random pics from the project<br />
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Above: The front axle and cones from the FELT Q720. Now I recall it was TreeFort Bikes in Ypsilanti Mi who had the correct cones in stock. I ordered these from their online store. Although I have never been there, I hear their bricks and mortar store is nice too!
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<<<< The info for finding the correct cones is printed right on the hub. In particular the Shimano RM65. I actually located the cones for another Shimano hub first, but it stated they would also fit the RM65 hub as well. (I got lucky)
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<<<< I always look for <a category="sports & outdoors" href="https://www.blogger.com/null" type="amzn">Campagnolo Grade 25 steel bearings</a>, as I have been told it is the highest rating for steel bearings. On the other side of the bag it is labeled Campagnolo. I hear they make pretty good stuff too! ltms
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Sorry for the delay folks, I mentioned on the Face Book page this would be published Sunday, obviously I didn't make it happen.
Until Next Time...PLEASE... RIDE SAFELY!.......And Remember to Always.....RESCUE, RESTORE & RECYCLE!
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Cheers, Hugh Unknownnoreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4155039544820521548.post-3824983876638997712014-05-25T13:24:00.000-04:002015-10-04T19:18:51.849-04:00The Zebrakenko and other stuff tooHello and Welcome,
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Well spring has finally sprung and it is time to get the Zebrakenko bike project moving forwar,d again.
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Above: As luck would have it, the <a type="amzn" category="sports & outdoors">threaded headset</a> I ordered for the Zebrakenko does not fit. So I scrounged this one up from a few old parts bike frames that I kept around for just such an occasion. I am pleased with this headset it is quite smooth the bearings and cups are in fine shape. After de greasing with White Lightning Clean Streak and cleaning, everything got re greased and reassembled. I`m not feeling this stem though. It does not really fit with the style bike I want to have when finished.
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Above: This <a type="amzn" category="sports & outdoors">handlebars</a> and stem combination fit my vision for the Zebrakenko perfectly. I am not sure if the stem off a Dutch bike will fit this Japanese beauty, but I will soon find out.
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Above: I would like to explain my next choice. I really love the look of the L.L.Bean bike finished. The L.L. Bean started life as an all terrain bike. However, I hate the ride! It is much too stiff for me. I can feel bumps I can't even see. My narrow and low profile HP tire choice was terrible. Which also led me to using very narrow mud guards or fenders. I have wanted to go to a wider fender and beefier tire selection. But I can't afford to waste a perfectly good set of tires and <a type="amzn" category="sports & outdoors">Velo Orange Hammered Fenders</a>.
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Above: My solution is to use the white tires and<span style="background-color: white; font-family: Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 13px;"><a category="sports & outdoors" href="https://www.blogger.com/null" type="amzn"></a></span> Hammered Velo Orange mud guards<span style="background-color: white; font-family: Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 13px;"></span><br />
on the yellow Zebrakenko project. Please note: I have not yet fine tuned the fenders. I will not be using the wheels off the L.L. Bean. Hopefully I will be able to scrounge up a vintage set of 700's for the Zebrakenko. It had a mixed set of wheels on it when I took it apart, one 700 and one 27 inch lol. So hopefully I can refurbish the 700 and I will only have to find one matching wheel. Part two of the plan is to sell this bike and use the cash to finance all the changes to the L.L. Bean bike. Honestly, I think I could really enjoy riding the L.L. Bean with the right set up.<br />
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Above: The buckle part came off the pouch that holds the battery pack for my <a type="amzn" category="sports & outdoors">Cree Headlamp</a> to the head tube on my 29'er. I was going to sew it back on, but before I could Eddy (cat) made off with the pouch. I had not been using the pouch for my Topeak multi tool. Since I keep the multi tool in my wedge pack anyway, the pouch seemed unnecessary. But it does make an awesome pouch for my battery pack.<br />
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Above: I have it double zip tied (through the belt loop) to the head tube. As seen above, I just leave the pouch on the bike all the time. The pack is secured much better now. And there is no need to constantly check it and re tighten the velcro straps all the time. A huge improvement indeed! One good zip tie will do the job, the second is just for back-up.
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Above: A friend of mine accidentally struck a bicycle (<a type="amzn" category="sports & outdoors">ladies bicycle</a>) that was traveling the wrong way (on the shoulder) when He was pulling out from a side street. He did brake hard, but despite his best efforts He still bumped her over. I feel for him, because the same thing almost happened to me the summer before last. I was pulling out of a side street when a girl riding the shoulder in the wrong direction, seemed to appear out of nowhere. I did stop in time, but it was a matter of inches that I missed her by. It really shook me up! But she seemed oblivious to the whole thing as she pedaled by. The lesson here is twofold. One: If you are on the shoulder riding in the wrong direction, don't assume people are going to see you. Two: If you are driving in your car don't assume some dumb ass isn't coming down the shoulder on the wrong side of the bloody road! When I rode motorcycles my motto was this "Always expect the other guy to do the stupidest thing imaginable."
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Above: Anyway this was her rear wheel, I also trued her front wheel and adjusted her <a type="amzn" category="sports & outdoors">rear derailleur</a>. At the time I laced the wheel, I did not know the whole story. So if you saw me post it on the face book page as "my friends wheel" that is because "at the time" I thought it was.
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Above: My first total wheel rebuild was a smashing success! (pun intended) Only a slight limit screw adjustment on the Low end was required to make it function properly. And being a Department Store Bike, it was likely already out of adjustment. Also I reset all the brake pads properly which were all "Willy Nilly" for lack of a better description!
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Above: Riding my Raleigh Sports on Easter Sunday. My pledge to ride my bike everyday in April "fell a little short". I did manage to ride my bike 27 days. That's much more than my typical April, that's for sure. It wasn't the weather that messed me up, it was more of a time issue. I did manage to ride all the really bad weather days though. So I am 95% satisfied with my pledge.
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Above: This picture "taken from my bicycle" is of a canal in 7 Harbors. It was taken in early April 2014. The canal is still frozen and you can still traces of our record snowfall we had this winter. Camera:<a type="amzn" category="camera & photo">Fuji Film FINE PIX S4500</a>
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Above: The same canal on April 29th 2014. The ride on the 29th was most enjoyable. It was a long, cold and snowy winter. A winter that won't be forgotten anytime soon by folks around here. But finally it is springtime and everything is coming back to life. I put out one of those <a type="amzn" category="home & garden">Hummingbird feeders</a> after checking the migration report. I have not seen any Hummers yet. But they should be making an appearance at any time now.
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Above: Recently... I was finally able to convince my bud Tom to let me swap out his high mileage wheels for this <a type="amzn" category="sports & outdoors">26 X 1.50 wheel-set</a> off my old low mileage 1980's Rock Hopper FS. I have shown work done on both his front and rear wheels on here and on the face book page. Tom had the most battered set of cones on his rear wheel axle that I had ever seen.
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Above: Tom has reported back that the wheel swap was a great idea. He says it is rolling smoother and coasting better as well. Now if I can just talk him into a set of beefier road knobby tires. Some phat tires would really smooth out the ride in the back.
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Above: As of late I have been working on my friend Brian's FELT Q-720. It has been an educational experience "for sure". So look for a post about that real soon. Also the beefier tires for the L.L. Bean have arrived :) Aaaaaannnnnnd.... when Brian's FELT is finished I should be able to resume work on the Zebrakenko. I have received inquiries about 2 restorations, but nothing has developed yet.
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Until Next Time...PLEASE... RIDE SAFELY!.......And Remember to Always.....RESCUE, RESTORE & RECYCLE!
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Cheers, Hugh Unknownnoreply@blogger.com8United States38.272688535980969 -100.195312512.750654035980968 -141.5039065 63.794723035980965 -58.8867185tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4155039544820521548.post-55688399348444803072014-04-02T23:50:00.000-04:002015-10-04T19:42:32.933-04:00The 30 Day Pledge to Ride Every Day in AprilHello and Welcome
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Before I start I would like to thank Ryan from Ryan's Rebuilds for posting this "30 day pledge thing" on his face book page. It really gave me some badly needed motivation to get this riding season started in a good way. You will find the link to Ryan's blog in the right side column in the "Blogs By Friends and Followers" section.
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I know my registration card is tough to read so what I wrote is this "Because it has been a long hard winter and I really need to get in shape" Here is the address or HTML if you would like to sign up http://30daysofbiking.com/
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April 1st : Day one went really well. I picked the perfect men's bicycle for the short ride, my 1964 Raleigh Sports 3 Speed. Having not been in the saddle for months, comfort was my number one priority. And the comfort level of the <a type="amzn" category="sports & outdoors">Brooks Saddle</a> really impressed me, And I was pleasantly surprised by how well the old Raleigh coasted down hills. And believe me I was coasting as much as humanly possible.
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Above: Aesthetically speaking this is not my favorite time of year. The lakes are still frozen and nothing is green yet and everything seems to have that "battered by winter" look. But this year Winter Was So Bad, I will embrace the outdoors as much as I can regardless of how things look right now.
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Above: The roads here take a real beating in winter as well. There are lots of stories on the local evening news about pot holes and each cities efforts to deal with them. Which is challenging as most municipalities went way over budget trying to keep the roads clear and salted this winter season. At times salt could not be found anywhere.
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Above: I suspect many people do not know this..... There are huge salt mines under Detroit. From what I have heard the salt miners had a boom season. They were hauling salt away as fast as they could bring it up. Funny..... Detroit makes cars.... Salt eats cars..... Mine more salt.... Spread it all over the roads.... Then build more cars! Now that's is a self sustaining economy!
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Day 2: Today I decided to take the <a type="amzn" category="sports & outdoors">Diamondback 29'er</a> out, which worked out really well. All that was needed was a little more air in the tires and it was "good to go". When I put the 29'er away for the winter I made sure the chain was on the smallest cog or sprocket in the back and on the smallest chain-ring up front. This prevents the front and rear derailleur cables from being stressed (taunt) all winter and stretching. I don't know how many times I have heard someone say this about their bike "My bike was fine when I put it away, and now it is not shifting properly." And quite often all that really needs to be done is to have the slack taken out of the shift cables. So why not just avoid the whole problem? I have never been told by anyone to do this, Is this like the best kept secret in the bicycle world? Is this not known? Or is it just "bad for business" to tell people to do this simple thing?
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Above: Riding along the unpaved shoulder (by choice) I unexpectedly rolled into a real soft spot in the dirt. I stood up on the <a type="amzn" category="sports & outdoors">Shimano PD-M520L MTB Sport Pedals</a> and the 29'er powered through it easily. If I had accidentally rode into this on one of the road bikes it probably would not have gone so well.
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Above: I tried to get a correct angle shot to show just how deep the <a type="amzn" category="sports & outdoors">WTB WOLVERINE 2.2 29" Tires</a> sank into this wet spot in the soil. The 29'er never ceases to amaze me with it's ability to roll over or through damn near anything. It is the perfect bike for the mixed terrain around here. And it is really comfortable, on or off road.
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Above: Today I rode around 7 Harbors for a while. It is mostly paved, and all the canals make for some really nice views. Another plus is.. there is not much traffic in there during the middle of the day. Just a smooth and peaceful place to ride.
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Above: Another nice view from 7 Harbors. Just around the bend in the canal I spotted a small foot bridge. I will try to remember to get a picture of it next time I am there.
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This is one of the few places I would be willing to move to around here. But we have good neighbors here and have no plans of leaving any time soon. I am just saying, if we had to move...
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Above: I couldn't help but notice the <a type="amzn" category="sports & outdoors">kneeboard</a> sticking out of the ice at the end of the dock.
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Above: Back home and feeling a little fatigue in my legs but nothing out of the ordinary after not riding in quite a while. Like most every springtime I am weighing in right now at just under 200 lbs. This year I think my target weight will be 180 lbs.
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Above: We have not seen any hummingbirds yet, I have been checking the migration reports online. Hopefully they will be here soon. Until Next Time...Please... RIDE SAFELY!.......And Remember to Always.....RESCUE, RESTORE & RECYCLE!
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Cheers, HughUnknownnoreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4155039544820521548.post-45074815068751286202014-01-19T14:02:00.002-05:002014-01-19T15:44:46.982-05:00A Note to my Blog followers / readersI regret that I have not been blogging lately. We have had the most brutal winter we have had in quite a few years. It's just not feasible to heat the garage / shop this winter. And with the remodeling and redecorating of the living room (which is pretty much finished now) there is too much "stuff" stored in the downstairs family room to make room for a bike project. I needed to "take a break" anyway, so I guess maybe it was meant to be.
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Above: The patio table just outside our eat-in kitchen door wall. This was to most snow from a single storm we have seen in years.
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Above: This "Snow Egg" is actually an end table with a small flowerpot on it. At one point the windchill factor was -30 degrees Fahrenheit. Not the worst I have seen here, that was - 47 F. But none the less it's been really cold! This snow was followed by what some call an "Arctic front" around here we call it an "Alberta Clipper". We have another arctic front coming through tomorrow night. Tuesday's high is expected to be + 8 degrees Fahrenheit, it should be a "cake walk" compared to the last one.
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Above: The ice storm that knocked out the power for a large part of this area was the biggest we have seen (right here) since the 1980's. We were lucky, the power outage area started on the next street. I'm not getting this in the correct order the ice storm came first.
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Above: The ice storm did make for some great photo ops. This was taken in the State Park "Highland Recreation Area" just a few miles from here. The Ford family once had a summer home there. I think the Ford family donated the land that is now part of the state park.
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Above: It's hard to believe I took this picture out the same window just a few months ago. To help pass the time we have been finishing off the living room and getting some things "fixed" from the kitchen re-mod last summer. And we are planning our next vacation, which looks like it will be on Mackinac Island again. Which we are very pleased about:) This time I might rent bikes instead of hauling one up there. Then I can blog about the different bike rental places and options.
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Above: The old picnic table out back is rotting away. We only use it for feeding the squirrels and birds these days.
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Above: For comparison....The same picnic table this winter. Don't get me wrong, I don't hate winter, I just don't love it as much as I once did.
I`ll have the blog back up and running when the weather breaks. Enjoy your winter wherever you are :)
Cheers, Hugh Unknownnoreply@blogger.com11tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4155039544820521548.post-36744886560555905432013-11-02T17:50:00.000-04:002015-10-05T00:29:33.807-04:00Zebrakenko Mixte Restoration Part 2Hello and Welcome,<br />
I recently restarted the Zebrakenko restoration. I had striped the bike to the frame then sanded the frame using wet/dry sandpaper.<br />
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Above: To remove the paint from the nooks and crannies I used a Vermont American fine brass wheel brush. As for the drill I used my high speed <a type="amzn" category="tools & hardware">DeWalt 8 amp Drill</a>. CAUTION: You must WEAR SAFETY GLASSES or GOGGLES when using the wheel brush or any power tool that rotates in any way. <br />
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Above: After the sanding was finished I hung up the frame for about a month or so while I worked on some other projects. So when it was time to spray primer I quickly re-sanded the frame and wiped it down with mineral spirits. Now I am confident the frame is ready for primer.<br />
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Above: This is my first time using white primer. If I were to use grey or black primer it could show through in some hard to reach spots. My thinking is this white primer should make my Sunburst Yellow Rust-Oleum enamel really pop.<br />
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Also when the paints get chipped the white primer should make any chips much less noticeable. I am using Rust-Oleum brand primer for clean metal. After seeing the white primer I was wondering if I should have painted the frame white?
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Above: After seeing the Sunburst Yellow enamel on the frame I am glad I decided to stay the course. I am considering installing white fenders (mudguards) or possibly chrome fenders with white tires. The weather has now turned cooler. The day I painted it was just warm enough to paint (50 degrees Fahrenheit) but the humidity was much lower than the maximum recommended humidity of 85%. The humidity was about 40% when I sprayed. Due to the cooler weather I am going to let the frame cure for a week or two before I start reassembly. I hope the cooler weather has not had a negative effect on the paint.<br />
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Above: Here I have wet sanded the fork. To remove the paint from and around the fork crown, I will again use the Vermont American fine brass wheel brush. The same goes for the *drop-outs.<br />
* Drop outs: Sometimes referred to as drops, are the four points on a bicycle frame and fork, where the wheel hub axles fit into the slots. (on the rear frame or lower fork ends)<br />
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Above: Here "hopefully" you can see the paint removed from around the fork crown detail. I also use little pieces of gritty wet sand paper folded to get some of the really tight spots. Probably not my best photography.. sorry bout that.<br />
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Above: I had a very small "weather window" to get the fork primed and painted. If not in a rush I normally would have removed or taped off the crown race. That's my story and I'm sticking to it. <br />
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Above: I do need to order a set of Zebrakenko decals soon, which I believe are $29.99 . I will have to double check the model name. I think this one is a "Thunder" model. I am not real crazy about the idea of spending the 29.99 for decals. But I definitely want them.<br />
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Above: This photograph shows the "Thunder" decal located correctly on the drive side chain stay just behind the indentation in the stay. I often use photographs to check the proper location of the other decals and clamp-on cable guides, shifters etc. etc.<br />
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Above: I was going to refurbish and use this wheel set for the Zebrakenko. But upon closer inspection they are not exactly a set.<br />
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Above: This wheel is clearly marked 27 X 1 1/4 which is typical for old "bike boom" ten speeds from the 1970's<br />
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Above: This wheel is clearly marked 700 C. I am glad I gave them a closer look before I started cleaning them up. They were both salvaged from Motobecane road bikes but obviously not the same model. <br />
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Above: I might salvage the wheels off this Nishiki Century. It has a cheap (stamped) crank and appears to be one of their entry level models. I also have another option, a woman's Fuji that was just donated. But I also have a beautiful Fuji Mixte frame I wanted to use the recent Fuji as a donor bike for the Fuji Mixte. I`ll have to think about it while I am rebuilding the crank and headset.<br />
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Above: I think a "Zombie Ride" looks like it could be lots of fun! I have heard of "Zombie Walks" and such. But this is the first Zombie Bicycle Event I have seen. I guess I need to get out more. Or at least get to the city more. I hope if a Zombie Ride comes up in S.E. Michigan I hear about it in advance.
I did order the Zebrakenko (Thunder) decals last night from Velocals and I think the frame is ok to handle now. No decision regarding the wheel-set yet. After I post this I will go take another look. The first order of business will be cleaning up the seatpost and installing it. Then I can mount the frame correctly in the stand and get to work on the headset and crank.<br />
The Michigan VS Michigan State football game is on, and so far things are not looking real good for the Wolverines. I`m going to go watch the 2nd half inthe shop. This way something good can come out of watching the game.<br /> Until Next Time...Please... RIDE SAFELY!.......And Remember to Always.....RESCUE, RESTORE & RECYCLE!<br /> Cheers, HughUnknownnoreply@blogger.com6tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4155039544820521548.post-61871784548889008432013-10-18T12:15:00.000-04:002015-10-05T00:39:09.073-04:00MAGNA Mountain Bike / Is this Department Store Mountain Bike Thing Ever Going To End?Hello and Welcome<br />
As I mentioned in an earlier post, this year will forever be remembered by "yours truly" as The Summer of the Department Store <a type="amzn" category="sports & outdoors"> Mountain Bike</a>. This D.S.M.B. belongs to the son of a friend. I was told it needs a new shifter thingy for the front gear thing. (or something to that effect) ltms... I was sure I had a decent set of twist grip type shifters I saved from the LL Bean bike. And after this lad's mum told me this young man had given his other bike to a friend who badly needed one...well how do you say no to that?...... Right! You don't<br />
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Above: I hope you are on a Personal Computer< or something with a big screen so you can click on this pic and see the labeling that I just recently learned how to do.<br />
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Above: The broken shifter is pretty simple, first I locate the replacement. Ok now I disconnect the cable from the front derailleur. I will then remove the short grip by carefully inserting a small slotted screwdriver and give it a quick shot of WD40 inside the grip. Ok the grip is off that was simple enough. Now I pull the shift cable free of any cable guides or braze-ons. For the twist shifter I locate the hole and insert the correct size Allen wrench and loosen the Allen screw or bolt. Now the shifter mechanism will slide right off the handlebars. Now for the sake of keeping it simple I kept the cables and housings with the salvaged twist shifters. So this is basically a remove and replace job. So now it is just a matter of sliding the new shifter into position and tightening it's Allen screw.<br />
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Above: Then I route the cable to the front derailleur using the original derailleur cable housings. I make sure the shifter is in the 1 or low position and I have no slack in the cable. And of course I have the chain on the small chain ring and with no cable the derailleur is in position over the small chainring. Now I attach the cable at the anchorpoint and try the shifter. Now it is working fine, so I can install the original short grip this will make it look more original. Remember the thin plastic washer that is probably on the floor goes between the short grip and the shifter. I'll adjust the shifter latter on, right now I have bigger fish to fry.<br />
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Above: When I spun the rear wheel it sounded like it was rubbing the frame. It was actually a bad bicycle wheel bearing and badly worn cone shown above. This is kind of cool... The replacement cone and bearing cartridge are both off his mom's bent rear wheel I recently replaced.<br />
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Above: On the left is the replacement bearing cartridge. On the right is the bad bearing cartridge. The bad one has been cleaned I suspect the bearings probably turned color as they overheated. The new bearings will be packed with grease before installing. And the axle and cones will get a little grease too. I like a light coat of grease on the axle to protect it from rust.<br />
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Above: I do not like the look of this bearing cup, but it feels pretty smooth so I'll use it for now. But I think I will be finding a good salvaged rear wheel and hub for this bike at some point in the future. As I think John mentioned on the face book page recently.... The one good thing about these D.S.M.B.'S is salvaged replacement parts are plentiful. And many of the parts are like new since these bikes are usually disabled so early in their lives. So I guess the message here is, If you can't fix it yourself you better learn fast or buy a better bike.
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Above: While I have it off I'll clean up the freewheel with a quick spray with White Lightning Clean Streak. And lubricate the free wheel by adding a few drops of oil to the gap and spinning the freewheel in my hand to let the oil work its way into the needle bearings.
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Above: Here is the rear hub all back together and working really well. I checked back after a few days and the lad told his mum the bike is working great. I did do a small adjustment to the low (L) limit screw on the front derailleur before I took the bike back and it was working fine. I also had to take a wee bit of tension off the front derailleur cable to get it dialed in.<br />
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Above : As for the front hub, it just needed the cones adjusted (they were set a little too tight) and a little grease. The boy should notice this bike rolling 100% better than it was last time he rode it.<br />
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Above: The bike ready to go back home. As usual I have placed the worn or broken parts in a zip lock bag. A few other things I did were to reposition the brake levers and reflectors. The chain was lubed with the White Lightning self cleaning lube. And then I just cleaned up the bike a bit with Armor All Cleaning Wipes. Which reminds me I have to pick some up at Meijer's tomorrow.<br />
Now I need to repair my friend Tom's rear wheel. Which ironically has almost the exact same problems. But it's NOT a Department Store Bike. Holeluuija!<br />
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Above: Tom's wheel off his Giant Mountain bike. I ran into Tom the other day and He said "Hey Hugh I got something for you". So he opens the trunk of his car and pulls out this rear wheel. Basically he said It needs a broken spoke replaced and could you take a look at the cones, I think they might be bad. I look at the Freewheel and see it is a Shimano (I have the right tool to remove it) Sure Tom no problem.<br />
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Above: Yeah these cones are shot alright. So I took the axle, with one of the bearings and the cones and spacers along with the broken spoke to Cycle Therapy in Waterford. I didn't have any black spokes and this is a really nice bike and I wanted tho replace the axle and cones with new. Cycle Therapy had everything I needed. They also had some citrus based Park Tool Chain Cleaning Solvent in stock. This is cool as I have been out of this stuff for what seems like forever.<br />
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Above: Although these bearings look o.k. to the naked eye, they have to be damaged if they have been rolling on those cones for a while. The young man who waited on me suggested I reuse the original spacers. I already knew this but I was impressed that he thought to mention it. Ernie has some good people working for him (at Cycle Therapy) who have kept me on the right track more than once.
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Above: The take down and reassembly went fine without a hitch. Everything got a good cleaning and re greasing. Did you ever notice it is almost always a spoke on the drive side of the rear wheel that breaks? In this case it didn't matter as the hub had to be broke down anyway.<br />
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Above: I have placed the wheel just inside the small shop/garage door so I don`t forget it. I am meeting up with Tom and some other friends in the morning. As usual I have his old axle, cones & bearings along with the spoke in a zip lock bag. I guess I could have tossed the spoke in the wheelie bin. I`m pretty sure Tom knows it could not be repaired ...ltms<br /> P.S. Didn't mention it but I did also true the wheel on the stand, after the hub was rebuilt of course. Chatting with Tom earlier this morning He told me the wheel has 1,500 miles on it. If I understood him correctly the hub was never broken down and cleaned / greased. I guess that would explain the condition of the cones.
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Until next time, Please RIDE SAFELY and remember to always.....RESCUE, RESTORE & RECYCLE<br />
Cheers,HughUnknownnoreply@blogger.com9tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4155039544820521548.post-76992108212166777922013-10-04T01:29:00.000-04:002015-10-05T00:45:56.670-04:003 Speed "Delivery Bike" Project FinishedHello and Welcome,<br />
This project came together by chance or fate or whatever you want to call it. After a friend brought me the All Pro 3 speed (All Pro was a bicycle brand sold at K Mart) I got the idea of trying to see if the Schwinn rack with the folding rear mounted baskets would fit the All Pro. I received the rack as part of my payment for building Laura's Trek winter commuter late last fall.<br />
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Above: The All Pro <a type="amzn" category="sports & outdoors">Men's 3 Speed Bicycle</a> as it arrived in what appears to be all original condition. At this point all I had done was clean up the bike using Armor All Cleaning Wipes. The only part missing was the front head mount front reflector.<br />
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Above: As it turned out the rear rack with baskets was a near perfect fit. This is when the "Delivery Bike" idea occurred to be. I had hanging from the ceiling rafters a Huffy ten speed with drop bars and a
<a type="amzn" category="sports & outdoors">Wald front wire basket</a>
mounted on the front. Which I think looked real stupid on the "road bike style" bike. I do not recall ever seeing a Wald front basket attached to
<a type="amzn" category="sports & outdoors">drop handlebars</a> before. Although being it was a Huffy I guess it really does not matter.<br />
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Above: The All Pro 3 Speed with both rack and front wire basket mounted. At this point the bike looks pretty fair, but the old Fuji Camera is kind to old bikes. This bike actually is going to need a little work before it is ready to deliver newspapers or pizza.<br />
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Above: Here is a closer look at the front 26 inch rim. Not looking to good and this is the better of the two rims. Both rims will need rust removal and truing for sure.<br />
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Above: As one observant reader noticed, on closer inspection these tires look like they are ready to split between the treads. Although the sidewalls look pretty good these tires are not going to hold up under a load. If this is really going to be a utility bicycle it is going to need some new rubber.<br />
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Above: The side wall size information reads 26 X 1 3/8 . But what really gets my attention is this marking (fits EA 3 Rim). This is something I will make sure to look for (in the specs) when searching for new tires online. So when I search 26 X 1 3/8 Bicycle Tire fits EA 3 . I come up with Kenda K40 Road Tire 26 X 1 3/8 Black* - Steel* fits EA3 E3 and 650A (French). Now that sounds like a perfect match to me, so I went ahead and placed the order. Black* indicates a black wall tire. Steel* indicates wire bead. I know I mention this a lot, But when ordering tires if yours are fractional like 26 X 1 1/4 DO NOT ORDER 26 X 1.25 they are not the same. And if your tire info indicates a specific rim type make sure the tire you order indicates the same rim type. Again they are not all the same. Sheldon Brown has an excellent article about proper tire sizing. I think I will add it to the Links List in the right column of This Blog. <br />
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Above: Here is the tag off one of the new tires. Notice it is fractional (26 x 1 3/8) like the originals. And there
are the ISO numbers (37-590) As luck would have it I only had the 597 ISO tires in stock. It also indicates that it was a wire bead just like the originals. Also the price on the tag indicates that I got a pretty good deal on these, as I paid considerably less than the $21.70 msrp indicated. They fit the rims nice and snug. I am always suspicious of a tire goes on a little too easy.<br />
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Above: In the first photographs all I had done was wipe the rims and tires off with Armor All Cleaning Wipes. This pic shows the rim after hitting it with the brass detail brush as well as the Vermont American fine brass wheel brush. And then polishing it with Turtle Wax Chrome Cleaner Polish. The rear wheel was worse (rust wise) than the front and I am amazed by how well it cleaned up. I`ll have to get some pics of the rear wheel tomorrow after I mount the tire.<br />
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Above: Since the initial clean up I have replaced the original brake shoes with Jag Wire X Caliper Brake Shoes. I also replaced the original brake cables with Jag Wire Basics brake cables. Since the original cables were not rusty inside the original cable housings and the housings were not kinked or cracked I decided to re use them. Not for the cost but for the color, the original housings are brown. However if they had shown any cracking or rust I would have replaced them regardless of color.<br />
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Above: Using my entry level Minoura wheel truing stand both the front are rear wheels trued up nicely with very little effort. I expected at least some of the spoke nipples would be froze up, but they all turned easily. As is typical with really cheap wheels, a few of the spokes were very loose. I tightened the loose spokes "just enough to get the slack out" before truing the wheels. And I was amazed to see the wheel bearings had been greased at some point. Normally I find the bearings on the cheaper bikes to be void of any grease. Which no doubt explains why both the threaded headset and one piece single crankset are very smooth. I will of course check them both anyway. It will "probably" be just a matter of smearing a little fresh grease on the bearings and closing things back up.<br />
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Above: This pick shows the badly bent left strut or leg on the rear bicycle rack. In case you can not read the caption, I straightened it by grasping it at the center of the bend and pulling Really Hard! Every once in a while the 32 years of laying brick comes in handy :)<br />
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Above: Here is a shot of the rear wheel all cleaned up and sporting the new Kenda K40 road tire. At one point I was considering replacing the rear wheel. I did not have much hope it would clean up this nice. I will not be replacing the shift cable or 3 speed shifter, as they are both in fine condition. I am more likely not to replace a three speed shift cable if it looks to be in good condition. The reason for this is because the three speed cable is not under the high tension that a derailleur cable is. In other words (in my opinion) it does not work quite as hard. So I do not think it is likely to fail any time soon.<br />
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Above: As for the cheap @$$ rolled steel kick stand, there was never a doubt in my mind that I was going to replace this piece of junk. As is typical with really crappy kick stands, it wouldn't even hold the bike up very straight. The bike was always on the verge of falling over. It's off to the scrapper for this piece of garbage!
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Above: I forgot to order a new stand when I ordered the tires. I found this old American made Greenfield alloy kickstand in the garage/shop. After some wheel brushing it looks 100% better than the original ever did.<br />
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Above: The left strut or leg (rear rack) after straightening. This is a huge improvement. But it might need one more good pull to get the rack centered over the rear fender (mud guard). I will try to replace this pic with a better one latter on.<br />
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Above: As my friends and relatives across the pond might say, The original cruiser saddle looks to be in pretty good nick.
Besides it does match the cable housings and <a type="amzn" category="sports & outdoors">handlebar grips</a>. It is a wee bit lose but that's an easy fix. So for now it stays.<br />
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Above: I will polish up the touring handlebars and levers a bit and give the saddle and grips a good cleaning. Then I have another idea for a horizontal Detroit News advertisement (sign) that I will hang from the top tube. I also need to get my old Detroit News "route book" (from 1969) out of my trunk. It might make a nice prop for my delivery bike.
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Above: Here I am making a "Detroit News" sign that will hang from the top tube. It will need to dry over night before I can paint the other side. I purchased some stencils for the sign today. The red paint for the lettering might be a problem, I will probably have to purchase that as well.<br />
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Above: The sign is finished. Unfortunately the number and letter stencils were too large for the sign. I did however purchase these vinyl letters and numerals the same day "just in case". I think the vinyl worked out pretty good.<br />
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Above: I thought it might be better advertising to include additional information on the other side of the sign. Now I will see if I can find that old route book, I am sure it is in my Steamer Trunk with a few other things I managed to save from my youth.<br />
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Above: I do not know how old these metal route book covers are. But I was told by the paperboy "Dave" who passed them on to me when I took over his route (my second) that they were pretty old. A few years latter Dave and I worked together again on his Dad's brick crew. I heard Dave became a (union) projectionist. Which they told back then was a really sweet job. It had to be easier than the brick crew that's for sure.....ltms<br />
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Above: Overall I am pleased with the way the delivery bike turned out. I will probably do a little polishing and
maybe make a few changes, but it is basically finished. Back then (and still today) there were two big Detroit Newspapers, The Detroit News and The Detroit FreePress. The FreePress boys were up early, about 6:00am picking up they're papers. I didn't want any part of that nonsense.<br />
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Above: The delivery bike from the other side. The Free Press made The News easy to sell. My sales pitch was to tell people you can read most of what is going to be in tomorrows FreePress today in The News. It stands to reason that a paper that is on your doorstep at 6:30 am was probably "put to bed" (printed) in the middle of the night. But the Free Press did have some loyal readers and still does. To this day I wont read it! lol
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The Detroit News was published 365 days a year. I think my Dad drove me on my route once on Christmas day. And that was only because we had to be somewhere else. Christmas was the best time to be a paperboy I think I made half my yearly earnings at Christmas time. Everyone tipped the paperboy at Christmas.<br />
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LEFT: Mrs MacArthur's house. One day while browsing real estate in my old neighborhood on the p.c. I spotted this house. Mrs MacArthur was my favorite customer on my paper route. She would sometimes have hot chocolate and fresh baked cookies for me. As I read the real estate add I noticed the house was only 700 and something sq feet. It did not look that small to me then. I think this was really where the idea of the Newspaper Boy delivery bike came from. Another customer gave me 5 dollars a week to walk his dog everyday on my paper route. One customer a poor widow lady had two sons who had turned her house into a "crash pad" (dope house) while she was working everyday. The boys had really trashed the place. I felt so bad for her I never collected for the paper. One day she caught me and asked my why I never came to collect. So I just told her the truth. She saw the American and Canadian flag patch on my shoulder and asked me, do you play hockey? I said yes I love hockey. She said come in I want to show you something. I was reluctant to go in, it smelled pretty bad in there. But the boys were not around so I did. She took me to a room that had Hockey Equipment scattered all over the floor. She said when the boys were young and their father was alive they played hockey. Then she said "take whatever you want". That was how I got my first real good pair of hockey gloves and elbow pads. I took good care of my customers and they in return took good care of me. It's funny, life was hard sometimes back then but it was also really good.<br />
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Above: That's me a few years latter #12 wearing those hockey elbow pads. And some hockey shorts I had outgrown
a few years before. Until next time Please RIDE SAFELY and remember to Always....RESCUE, RESTORE & RECYCLE
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Cheers, HughUnknownnoreply@blogger.com19tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4155039544820521548.post-56380748033838669622013-09-07T15:51:00.000-04:002015-09-16T18:29:46.634-04:00My Bicycle "Bucket List" Part OneHello and Welcome,<br />
I think every bicycle enthusiast has a list of bikes he or she would like to own at some point before they leave this world. Probably not written down but filed away somewhere in the back his or her mind. If your list is anything like mine it has been periodically updated over the years. So I will start with a few bikes that have been on my "bucket list" for quite a while.<br />
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ABOVE: Antique replica "Bone Shaker 52" from worksmancycles.com<br />
The penny farthing or high wheel bicycle. The penny farthing is not a bike I would necessarily want to ride much. I consider it more of a piece of art that I would put on display somewhere to admire it. I read somewhere long ago that the name "penny farthing" comes from the coins. The difference in the size of the front and rear wheels being on about the same scale as the difference in the size of a farthing and a penny. <br />
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Above: The Schwinn Orange Krate has probably been on my bicycle bucket list the longest. I have already owned a regular Schwinn Sting Ray that I received for my 11th birthday. I loved my candy blue Sting Ray and I thought it was the coolest bike on the planet at the time. That is until I saw the Orange Krate. It truly was love at first sight. I probably could have saved up to purchase one with my paper route earnings. But at that time Hockey was the most important thing I had going on. And I paid for all of my hockey equipment and "ice time" myself. There just was not enough money for both. I really should have found a way.....So it goes <br />
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ABOVE: The Raleigh Competition MK II DL 165. My brother George rode one of the original purple Raleigh Competitions back in the early 1970's. (not the MK II) I rode his a few times and was impressed by how it felt. The tires were the high pressure sew up type. And the Raleigh weighed nothing compared to my Schwinn. And it felt like a finely crafted machine when I rode it, a feeling I had never experienced riding before. It was the Raleigh that started my love affair with ten speed road racers. As much as I liked my bro's bike, I think I would like the MK II model DL 165 even better. <br />
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Above: The Schwinn Phantom considered by many to be the most beautiful of the American tank bikes. I must say I do agree. I do not think the tank bike ever got any better than the Schwinn Phantom. (custom builds excluded) I did not appreciate the beauty of this style bike when I was a boy. But back then most of the tank bikes I saw were just "old clunkers". I was after all part of the "Sting Ray generation". But with age comes wisdom (well some wisdom hopefully) and I can now appreciate the beauty of this extraordinary bicycle.<br />
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Above: From the Motobecane 1984 catalog, on the left a black and red Motobecane Super Mirage. I did actually own one of these for a short time. Unfortunately it had a smaller frame. I prefer a 57 to 58 cm frame but I have been known to go bigger on occasion. I think the red and black color combination was the best Motobecane ever offered. Just a really classy looking bike. I hope I get another shot at restoring one of these beauties one day.<br />
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Above: A red Specialized Langster fixed gear bike. I had a chance to purchase one of these new a few years back. It had been "marked down" as the fixed gear bikes were just not selling at my friend Ernie's store. I thought about it a little too long, when I called back to have them hold it for me it had already sold. I was not really determined enough to search out another bike on close out. But I have always regretted that I missed the boat on this one. I thought it was a beautiful bike then and I still do.<br />
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Above: A Gazelle commuter bike. This is a style bike I have more recently come to appreciate. Again maybe not a bike I would ride very much (I really love my Diamondback 29'er) but a wonderful blend of form and function. And the step through model has a really beautifully designed frame as well. It is the only full size step through frame bike I would like to own.<br />
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above: The Gazelle with step through frame. I can just picture my wife and I riding around town on these two classic beauties. Unfortunately my wife does not ride, ok maybe me and Jennifer Aniston. The lovely Jennifer once worked as a bicycle messenger. So it's not totally out of the realm of possibilities. ok yeah it is :)<br />
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Above: My vintage Raliegh Sprite (sold) in ivory with original paint and decals. I was lucky enough to own this beauty and unlucky enough to find one that was too tall for me to ride comfortably. I would love to own this bike again in my correct size.<br />
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Above: A Cervelo P3 Carbon racer. As much as a bike like this is way too much bike for me, I can not help being impressed by the style and the technology. These bikes are truly works of art, as well as examples of incredible engineering and technology. But in reality, me owning a bike like this would be silly and a huge waste of machinery. Maybe if I were 30 or 40 years younger it would be a wise choice. But that boat has sailed...<br />
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Above: Photo courtesy of ryansrebuilds.blogspot.com<br />
Ryan's 1970's Peugeot UO 8 . I would love to restore another vintage Peugeot road bike. That is providing everything threaded is salvageable. Finding old french thread components can be difficult and pricey. I do not specify a model that I would like to restore because you don't see these often around here. So I would have to take what I get or again spends lots of cash. And that ain't happening. You can read more about this restoration at ryansrebuilds.blogspot.com<br />
Well Done Ryan!
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Above: Photo courtesy of GT and Performance Bike. The GT Wheels 4 Life Tour Commuter is one sweet bike. There are many things I like about this bike, so I`ll just name a few. The paint color is excellent (sort of an English racing green) The triple triangle frame is legendary for it`s durability. The disc brakes provide excellent braking. I like the look and functionality of the fenders. The gold anodized rims compliment the paint perfectly. And the old style toe clips fit in perfectly with this blend of old style and modern era technology. And the bar end shifters are very retro-cool. I love the touring bars as well. I am picturing this bike with a Brooks coil sprung touring saddle and a set of old style riser handlebars. Although that might require changing the shifters as well. In that case I would probably install Shimano SIS top mount thumb shifters. <br />
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Above: Photograph from the 1974 Schwinn catalog. I owned 4 or 5 unicycles in my life time but never a Chicago Schwinn Unicycle. The last time I rode a uni it did not go well. One of the pedal spindles was bent and it really threw me off. (not literally) My first uni was a Montgomery Wards and it actually performed really well. The others I really don't remember. And the one I have now (bent pedal spindle) is of lower quality than the others. <br />
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Above: A 1977 Schwinn Approved Volare. I would love to own one of the Schwinn Approved Lightweights with chrome lugs. I have recently learned that Schwinn had more than one model that sported the chrome lugs. I think I would prefer the Schwinn Approved World Voyageur with the bar cons. But there might be other models that also have the bar cons. I am by no means a "Schwinn expert" and do not claim to be. I just love to restore and recycle old bikes.
And I am also a big fan of some of the new bikes as well.<br />
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Above: The Firestone 500 bicycle. My friend Mike had one of these when I was a kid, although it might have been his brother Ron's bike. I remember riding on the handlebars trying to keep my feet out of the spokes! It might have been purchased at Ned's Firestone in my hometown of RoyalOak Mi. The "space age" tank bikes were the last of their kind until they started building retro tank bikes latter on. They typically had the tapered tank with the dual headlights. Not unlike the Roadmaster "Star Rider" I restored a while back. This Firestone 500 is not all that remarkable, but it does bring back some fond childhood memories.<br />
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Above: A homemade tall bike. photo courtesy of desertnewsdotcom. The design of this homemade "tall bike" is different from the ones I remember seeing around Metro Detroit when I was but a wee lad. The bikes I remember were built on an inverted frame (upside down) and involved lots of welding. I think I like this design better. Why do I want one? I have no idea. It just looks like fun.<br />
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From a dialog I had with reader/follower Abner M on the Blog's Face Book page.<br />
At one time I thought the high-wheel or penny farthing riders were showing off when they coasted down hill with their feet up and over the handlebars. It turns out, they do this for safety. If they strike an object that stops the front wheel, they are catapulted forward. With their legs up and over the bars they can at least hit the ground running. As compared to being pile driven head first into the pavement. After I heard that, the idea of owning one did not sound all that wonderful anymore. There is a reason the bicycle evolved<br />
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As this "Bicycle Bucket List" is constantly changing, I will at some point post a part two. Until next time...Please RIDE SAFELY and Remember to Always RESCUE, RESTORE & RECYCLE<br />
Cheers, Hugh Unknownnoreply@blogger.com11tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4155039544820521548.post-47142556015847280542013-08-19T22:55:00.000-04:002015-10-05T00:56:05.839-04:00TRIAX PK 7 Mountain Bike Hello and Welcome<br />
One day I will remember this season as "The Summer of the Department Store <a type="amzn" category="sports & outdoors">Mountain Bike</a>". It started with the RHINO then the MOTIV now the TRIAX PK 7. This bike needs a new back wheel, a better kickstand and a nicer saddle and some serious rust removal for the chain.<br />
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Above: The rear 26' wheel proved to be beyond truing. I have not yet stripped the woman's GIANT Acapulco. But I did salvage the front tire for the Motiv. Which did not affect the future of the GIANT Acapulco as it had miss matched tires anyway. But salvaging one of the wheels has sealed it's fate. It will now be just another parts bike. And that's ok because I really needed another bicycle frame hanging from the garage/shop rafters.<br />
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Above: The aforementioned Ladies GIANT Mountain bike. I should have been stealing the 26'tires off the TRIAX to finish this bike. But this is not the bike I am being asked to repair. So it goes...
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Above: The FEMCO wheel worked out perfectly:) No need to swap out <a type="amzn" category="sports & outdoors">7 speed freewheels</a> or do any truing. So that solves the main problem. But the kickstand situation is a little weird. The mounting plate for the kickstand is mounted under the front of the swing arm. The only problem is the mounting plate is not on a level plane with the ground. So when you mount a kickstand on it the stand swings much farther forward than usual. And you could see the result of this set up looking at the grip ends. (I have a plan for those too) But I was sure I had a salvaged rear stay mount kickstand somewhere in the shop.<br />
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Above: I could not make the original mounting bracket work. As I remember it was not fitted very well on the parts bike it came off of either. So I cut off the upper part of the sliding bracket with my hacksaw then used a typical bracket for tubing. You should be able to find these at any "real hardware store". I was able to use the original holes in the sliding bracket so no drilling was necessary. This worked out pretty well, as the bike stands up much straighter now.<br />
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Above: As is typical for a bike that has been dropped or fallen over several times the handlebar ends had cut through the ends of the grips. A cheap fix is to just cut out the remaining grip-end even with the end of the handlebars. Then just install a normal end plug. Not perfect by any means, but none the less an improvement. <br />
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Above: This always goes hand in hand with the damaged handlebar grip ends, the sides of the saddle tore up from the bike falling over or being dropped several times. In this case I suspect the crappy kickstand was the culprit. Don't you just cringe when you see some kid deliberately drop his bike on the pavement? I would never do that to my Candy Blue Schwinn Sting Ray when I was a kid. And God save me if my Dad ever saw me doing that!<br />
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Above: Here I have installed the unused <a type="amzn" category="sports & outdoors">comfort sport saddle</a> from the parts bike that was left over from Laura's Trek winter commuter build.<br />
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Above: Another typical thing you see on used department store bikes is frayed (unwound deraileur cable ends. Here I just snipped off the worst of it using my Pedro cable cutters. Then I rewound it "as best I could" and crimped on a cable end. I don`t know if the bike is worth all this love, but it just something I like to do. Cost? about 1 penny.<br />
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Above: As for the chain, I just sprayed it (in sections) with WD 40 and wiped it down vigorously using a terry cloth rag. The chain rust (surface rust) was not as bad as I originally thought. After it dries I will lube the chain with some White Lightning chain lubricant. As for the rest, it just needed to be wiped down with Armor All Cleaning wipes. I did take some slack out of the rear brake cable and reposition the shoes as well. I think it looks pretty good. For what it is anyway.<br />
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Above: The left side of the TRIAX. The red arrow indicates where the kickstand mounting plate is located. If you enlarge the pic you can see how this mountain bikes swing arm sweeps upward at this point. And I should mention, I did install a <a type="amzn" category="sports & outdoors">Greenfield Alloy kickstand</a> and the same thing happened. So the problem definitely was not with the cheesy kickstand, which is what I suspected at first. After a little cleaning I returned the bike to it's owner (who would like to remain anonymous) But she was very pleased and surprised that it came out so nice. <br />
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Above: We are finally retiring the 1987 Ford Taurus. It has been in the family since it was new. And for the most part the Taurus has been a good reliable car. But after 26 years it needs more in repairs and maintenance than it is worth. And the gas consumption is unacceptable even though I drive much less than 10 thousand miles per year. We are donating the old Taurus to The Purple Heart of Michigan. <br />
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Above: I will now be driving a 2007 Mazda 3, which also has been in the family since new. I have been really enjoying driving the Mazda so far. And I feel better about using much less petro (about 1/2) than the old Taurus. And did I mention the Mazda is a Blast to drive? Zoom Zoom Zoom! It looks like I am going to need a new bike rack for the Mazda. I do not think it would be wise to hook the straps to the Mazada's plastic rear bumper. I think a roof top rack might be the best way to go. This will also give me quick and easy access the trunk (boot). No more "on and off" with the rack every time I want to haul something. <br />
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We purchased the Mazda 3 from our son who just purchased the first 2014 Yaris SE (above) in Michigan. "at least that is what we were told". I really like the look of the Yaris SE and I know my son really loves the car. The Mazda is not my "mid life crisis".... I am too old for that :) I had mine when I turned 50 and purchased a 1985 Outlaw V MAX. That was tons of fun too!<br /> Until next time, Please RIDE SAFELY and Remember to Always RESCUE, RESTORE & RECYCLE<br /> Cheers, Hugh
Unknownnoreply@blogger.com9tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4155039544820521548.post-7303256597949491272013-08-11T15:30:00.001-04:002015-10-05T12:11:14.557-04:00MOTIV RockRidge Mountain BikeHello and Welcome,<br />
Well we are done working on the house, for a while anyway. So hopefully I can get back to repairing and or restoring. A while back a friend asked me about doing some work on a bike he was cleaning up for his son. This rigid <a type="amzn" category="sports & outdoors">mountain bike</a> will be used as a campus bike, at least I think that was the idea. Anyway, it took a little while but the bike finally made it here. As always it needed a little more work than I originally thought.<br />
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Above: I was only supposed the replace the <a type="amzn" category="sports & outdoors">rear derailleur</a> shifter, but when I test rode the bike this front "D" shifter was not working at all. So I guess I will be replacing both. Which is what I would rather do anyway as we are changing to a simple and reliable Shimano thumb shifters.<br />
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Above: The soon to be replaced shifter for the rear derailleur. This one is totally 100% seized-up. This is not really a project So I did not take as many pics as usual. So for most of the "before stuff" you will just have to take my word for it.<br />
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Above: Here I have installed the new (salvaged) shifters I also replaced the cables and housings as well, using <a type="amzn" category="sports & outdoors">Jag Wire basics shift cable</a> w housing. I did however reuse the short cable housing at the rear derailleur. Of course I added a few drops of oil before inserting the new cable. At any rate both shifters are working fine. And the rear d shifter is SIS just like the original. S.I.S. = <a type="amzn" category="sports & outdoors">Shimano Index Shifter</a>. You know..... click, click, click. At least on this rear d shifter. You can turn off the SIS if you are so inclined.<br />
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Above: I have a tub full of salvaged <a type="amzn" category="sports & outdoors">bicycle reflectors</a>, so I went ahead and installed a front reflector. I also covered up the rust on the bars using 3M plastic trim and detail tape. (which I think is no longer available)
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Above: Since I had to remove the <a type="amzn" category="sports & outdoors">handlebar grips</a> anyway, I took them inside and scrubbed them down using hand soap and the old fingernail brush. They were really grimy and really needed a good cleaning. To remove the grips I carefully inserted a small screwdriver and sprayed a little WD40 in between the bar and inside of the grips. I have used soapy water in the past and it works well too. But this is quicker and more convenient, as I always have a can of WD40 close by. I picked up this method from one of my blog followers, I don`t remember who it was though. <br />
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I also trued both wheels on the <a type="amzn" category="sports & outdoors">Truing Stand</a>. The rear wheel looked to be beyond truing. But it actually trued-up quite nicely to within about 1/16th of an inch. The rear cantilever brake was "maladjusted" to accommodate the wobbling back wheel. So after reinstalling the rear wheel I replaced the cable and the front part of the cable housing. Then I reset the the post type brake shoes or shoes correctly, and it stops really well now. Although it will need new shoes soon.<br />
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Above: I had this <a type="amzn" category="sports & outdoors">Bontrager rear rack</a> laying around and I had already decided "the next bike that comes in that this rack fits properly I am just going to install it {for free} and be rid of it". The damn thing isn't doing me any good laying around, so why not just put it to good use?<br />
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Above: I noticed the bike had no <a type="amzn" category="sports & outdoors">water bottle cage</a> either, so I installed this salvaged Specialized cage. I will be donating this to the cause as well.
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Above: Some of the spokes were rusty, so I sanded those down. The dust cap was missing on the drive side, so I installed a salvaged one (also donated). I could write a book on "How not to make money repairing bikes"..lol. Who gives a s#1% ! It can't always be about making money. Did I mention this bike is going to my hometown, which means it is probably for an O.C.C. student. Anyway the bike looks pretty good considering it's tight budget.<br />
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Above: I cleaned-up the sidewalls, rims and everything but the grips using Armor All Cleaning Wipes. So the only "new parts" I used were the cables and housings. The owner purchased the <a type="amzn" category="sports & outdoors">comfort saddle</a>. Everything else I used was salvaged
so this bike truly is Recycled :)<br />
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Above: Here is a shot of that rear tire. When I first saw the bike the tires were at very low pressure about 25 psi.
This did not happen (or wasn't visible) until I brought the tires up to 55 psi (they max at 65 psi). I will dig around the shop tomorrow, maybe I have something better that I can use. And I should mention, the front tire looks 100% better.<br />
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Above: Here is what I found the following morning. Even after dropping the pressure to 45 psi this tire blew out sometime during the night. Fortunately I do have a <a type="amzn" category="sports & outdoors">Kenda 26 x 1.95 black wall mountain bike tire</a>. The one I have is definitely a front tire so I will have to move his more "aggressive tread" front tire to the rear. So I now needed to remove both front and rear tires to make this work out properly.<br />
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Above: Here I have replaced the front "paddle like tread" tire with my replacement. Note how the tread starts to make the curve up the sidewall of the tire a wee bit. This helps the tire grab better in the turns. A more modern version would have the tread even farther up the side wall. So far so good. Now I need to remove the blown out tire and tube from the rear wheel and replace them with the newer ones that were on the front. <br />
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Above: It is obvious that this tread pattern is better suited for the rear than my replacement would have been. I could have just replaced the rear tire with my tire but that would have looked stupid and not performed as well. At least in my humble opinion. Since I chose to bring the cracked tire up to pressure and it failed, I will only charge for the tire not the inner tube. I think that is a pretty fair deal.<br />
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above: Ok finished again :) I have bagged up all the parts I have replaced including the tire and inner tube. This is so I can show the customer exactly why each part was replaced. I have found that most people don't mind paying for parts and labor if you show them why it was necessary. This is especially important with new or first time customers. With most regular or repeat customers I do not need to do this. But it is always a good idea to offer to show the old parts and explain the expenses.<br />
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Above: It was a little stressful having so much work done on the house this year, especially for my wife. So I put up some <a type="amzn" category="home & garden">Hummingbird feeders</a> to bring back a little peace. It has worked pretty well and we both enjoy watching these tiny birds hover around the feeders and flowers.<br />
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Above: The Ducks have returned this year and we have seen more Rabbits than in recent years. The Hawks and Feral Cats (Felis Catus) have kept the Chipmunk population in check. The Hawks seem to prefer the state land for nesting the past few years. I hear them occasionally but rarely see them anymore. If the Chipmunk and Rabbit population increases the Hawks will surely return.<br />
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Above: Rabbit feeding on the spilled seed under the finch feeder. At least it is not going to waste.
Until Next time Please RIDE SAFELY and Remember to Always.....RESCUE,RESTORE & RECYCLE<br />
Cheers, HughUnknownnoreply@blogger.com8tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4155039544820521548.post-74298528966531187722013-07-13T22:02:00.000-04:002015-10-04T00:20:38.854-04:00Gazelle Trimmer Trend and Batavus Champion Hello and Welcome <br />
On Wed July 10th I drove down to Troy Mi to get a look at two bikes that I was told by the picker were German.
I will not give the pickers name as I carefully guard any info about about where I find my bikes. It was about a 45 minute drive, but when I got a look at what my picker had found I was glad I made the trip.<br />
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Above: The Gazelle "Trimmer Trend" step through frame commuter bike. The frame size is 54cm (o.c. crank to near top of seat tube clamp) And the frame length (o.c. head tube to o.c. seat tube) is 21 & 1/4 inches or 54 cm. This is my first Dutch bike and is very different from anything I have found before.<br />
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Above: Founded in 1892 by Willem Kolling & Rudolf Arentsen, Gazzelle is the biggest and most popular bicycle maker in the Netherlands. When I checked on the Gazelle web site their was no link to any US outlets. That is not to say they are not available here in the USA. I would imagine someone is importing them here for resale.<br />
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Above: As you can see the Generator light set and parts of the mounting bracket are badly rusted. I might have a replacement for the generator/light on hand. I have only seen pics of bikes with this type front brake. This one is not hooked up to the cable. I hope I can locate some detail pics of the brake and how it is supposed to be connected to the cable.<br />
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Above: I really like the Euro look of the wrap around or full chain guard. Again the rear hub and brake look totally foreign to me. I am glad I have a few other projects to finish before I start this project. I'll definitely need the time to do some research.<br />
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Above: A shot of the rear hub and brake hook up. (I think it might be a Sturmey Archer hub) brb..... Ok I just ran out to the shop to make some notes. The Hub markings are as follows "Sturmey Archer - STEELITE - Made in England - 87 or B7" The strap (that one that looks like it is for securing loads) is wrapped around the hub along with some tall grass. But the brake does work when activated by pulling the lever (on the hub) manually. As does the front brake. That's a good start anyway.<br />
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Above: I can easily imagine how nice this bike must have looked the day it first rolled out of the shop. The bicycle's rear rack is simple but sturdy with very good quality chrome plating. I have no doubt the rack will clean up beautifully. The bike appears to be a very nice mating of form and function. It is already easy to see why these bikes are held in such high regard here and apparently everywhere else!<br />
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Above: The bicycle bell is rusty and sticks a little bit, but I think I can get it working and shining again. The plastic plate has been broken off the Sturmey Archer shifter housing. The shifter itself is completely frozen with rust and will need to be replaced for sure. The brake cables are almost completely frozen and will definitely need to be replaced. I am assuming it is a three speed hub, but I guess it could have more than 3 gear selections. If you know the answers to any of these questions I am asking myself, Please leave a comment.<br />
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Above: Sweet head badge! I get the Gazelle part. I am going to see if I can get the other part translated brb....
RiJWIEL FABRIEK (Bicycle Factory) DIEREN (Town in the Netherlands) This was confirmed by a regular reader and long time follower Everett, whom I believe works at the D.I.A. (Detroit Institute of Arts) I have not been to the DIA since I was a kid about 40+ years ago. But I remember it was awesome! <br />
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Above: As popular as these bikes are I would think decals should not be too difficult to locate. brb... (again) Ok I have already located two sets. They are not exactly the same, but it is a good sign. I found these in just a few minutes. And I could do a combination of those decals and also have some made up. At any rate, I do not think decals will be a problem. Brakes... Now those might be a problem:)<br />
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Above: The Batavus Champion. Same picker, same day same price. (don't ask) The touring handlebars on this bike alone would have been worth the trip. And a skirt guard too. This is one cool little bike.<br />
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Above: If I'm lying, I'm dying These handlebars are fantastic! I might have to save these for a future project. I can see these bars on a lugged frame, single speed, vintage style "bare bones" board racer with white tires.<br />
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Above: This rack does not appear to be quite as sturdy as the rack on the Gazelle however the rear fender looks a lot straighter. The bicycle taillight and rack mounted reflector look very similar. <br />
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Above: The Batavus head badge. I think I will try to clean it up a bit using Mother's Mag and Aluminum Polish. I know nothing about Batavus except what I have learned in the last few minutes. From Batavus: "Batavus is the bike specialist from The Netherlands for all sorts of bikes, including the popular e-bike". From Wikipedia: I have learned in 1904 founder Andries Gaastra sold clocks and small farm machines from his shop. Soon after he began selling bikes built by German manufacturer Presto. Not long after that Andries began building and selling bikes under the BATAVUS brand. It makes sense to me that a man with a background in clocks and farm machinery would be the sort of fellow who could produce technically superior and reliable bikes.<br />
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Above: This horseshoe shaped <a type="amzn" category="sports & outdoors">AXA bicycle wheel lock</a> is in the locked position. The lever won't budge, I think I need a key of sorts to unlock it before the lever will move.<br />
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Above: I suspect a key or tool of some sort is inserted into this hole (red arrow) to allow the unlocking lever to be pulled. In the mean time I will spray a little WD 40 in there to free things up a bit. I ran across a similar wheel lock before. But the last one was stuck in the open or unlocked position. I think it might have been on the KTM multi speed road bike.<br />
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Above: The skirt guard is missing a few of the tabs that hold it in place. I think I can still make it work though.
I also spotted a crack in the seal on the left side of the crank. And I noticed like the Gazelle, there is a logo on the kickstand.<br />
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Above: I found the AXA site which has a online key service. The following is step one in the key service section:
"Firstly you must fill out the key number of your key. You can find this on your spare key, the guarantee card, the steel disc or on your cycle insurance policy. If you no longer have a key number you cannot order a new key and you will have to buy a new lock. The number comprises of at least four characters and at most six.
The key number of your key:"<br />
LTMS Are You ####ing Kidding Me? Any chance the numbers engraved on the back of the lock housing might help? So it goes..... <br />
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Above: Thursday morning I rode the Diamondback 29'er into town to get a haircut at the world famous Jack's Barber Shop. I have only had two barbers in my entire life. When I first moved out here from the old neighborhood I would drive back to the old neighborhood barber shop on 4th street every couple months for a haircut. Finally I decided to ask around and try something local. And I have been a loyal customer at Jack's ever since. We have one of those discount barbershops now where you can get a haircut for under ten bucks. But your hair will look like you only paid five bucks..ltms. Besides I like to catch up with a the local goings on and talk hockey with Tommy. I don't think you get the small town treatment at the discount place. This past week the humidity came down quite a bit and we've had nice riding weather. But I hear the temp is about to go back up along with the humidity. So tomorrow morning might be my last chance for a comfortable morning ride for a while. I am still riding the 29'er exclusively since we got back from our Island holiday. I just love riding that bike!<br />
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Above: Something ran into the front left wheel on the Taurus when it was parked. Besides trashing the hubcap it knocked the front end much farther out of wack. I drove it on the expressway before I noticed the damage and it felt like the whole front end was coming apart at 65 mph. It already needed new tie rod ends and a new power steering pump. And the trans has been shifting really hard into second for about two years now. I had adjusted my driving to avoid the hard shift into second, so that was not really a problem. But I think it might be time to retire the old Taurus. We have decided we are going to donate it to the Purple Heart. Twenty six years old and in the family since it was new, the old Taurus has served this family well since 1987. So we might be purchasing our son's Mazda 3 (He's ready for a change) or we might end up buying new. Totally undecided at this point.
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Above: Nothing new to report on the All Pro 3 speed delivery bike project. Or the Zebrakenko project for that matter. But the kitchen remodel is finished! And the front yard is ready for seed (new septic field). Also the new
laundry area (stacked) and closet is supposed to go in Tuesday or Wednesday. This summer has mostly been about the house. But soon it will be finished (for a while anyway) and I can once again concentrate on the bikes. At least until the living room project starts. So it goes...<br />
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Above: Eddie is doing fine, He's still a pain in the a$$. Until next time Please Ride Safely and Remember to Always....RESCUE, RESTORE & RECYCLE<br />
Cheers, HughUnknownnoreply@blogger.com9tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4155039544820521548.post-84946624608504134382013-07-02T22:29:00.000-04:002015-10-05T12:25:17.187-04:00Bicycling on Macknac Island 2013Hello and Welcome,<br />
Carolyn and I returned home Sat June 29th after a wonderful vacation week on Mackinac island. There was lots of good food, carriage rides and sightseeing. And of course lots of bicycle riding for me. Carolyn was able to do some horseback riding on the island as well.
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Above: If you are staying on the island you will probably want to use the services of one of the many bicycle porters on the island. The porters are incredible cyclists maneuvering through pedestrians, horse and buggy traffic and visiting cyclists. (many of whom appear to be inexperienced and totally oblivious to anything going on around them) And they do this usually with heavy loads of luggage on their bikes. And they make it look easy, and I am sure it is anything but. In our experience the porters have all been very polite and extremely helpful.<br />
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Above: I brought along the 3 speed Kalkhoff <a type="amzn" category="sports & outdoors">folding bicycle</a> that I restored this past winter. I have no real experience traveling with a folding bike, so I thought I would give it a try. And maybe learn a few things from the experience. The first thing that occurred to me was that folding pedals would have been an excellent idea. This would allow the bike to lay flatter on the floor of the trunk. I should also mention this is a subcompact Ford Fiesta with a very small trunk. I was impressed by how easily the bike fit into the trunk. I could have loosened the handlebar clamp and seat-post/seat-tube clamp and made the bike even more compact if necessary. We folded down the rear seats to make room for our luggage. The ferry company will haul your bike but there is a charge for it. Our two round trip ferry tickets were 25.00 each and an additional 8.00 for the bike. (also round trip)<br />
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Above: This fancy coach is from the world famous Grand Hotel. We stayed at the Lilac Tree Hotel. The Grand is a little "too grand" for me. But if you like luxury and dressing up for dinner it might be the place for you.
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Above: The Lilac Tree has bike rack parking in the rear of the building. However you can also park your bike inside on the ground level if you like. (check with the front desk first)<br />
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Above: I forgot my <a type="amzn" category="sports & outdoors">bicycle lock</a> again this year. But I did purchased a cable lock rom the Mackinac Bike Barn on Main Street. They are a bike rental outfit as well as a full service bike shop. And I thought $21.99 was a fair price for the lock "considering where we were". They have different types of bikes for rent including Single speed Beach cruisers, seven speed comfort bikes, 21 speed Mountain Bikes or comfort bikes. They also offer single and multi speed Tandem bikes and tag along bikes as well child or adult strollers. They also carry quite a few cycling accessories. These are very helpful and knowledgeable folks so stop in even if just to say hello.<br />
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Above: The early morning view from our suite's balcony. If this view looks familiar it is the same room we stayed in last year.<br />
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Above: I told myself I would not take pictures of the stone monuments built by visitors along the shoreline this year. But when I saw this arch built off shore while on one of my morning rides around the island... I could not resist.<br />
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Above: Folks on the island are for the most part pretty laid back. This is one of the few signs I have seen displaying any cycling rules on the island. Also I have never seen a bike parked or ridden on the sidewalk, so I assume those are unwritten rules as well. Also no bikes can be left out on the street at night. And although someone has removed the sign, there are still no bikes allowed in rooms at the Lilac Tree Hotel.<br />
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Above: This Seagull just happens to be perched upon one of those monuments I am not photographing this year. Technically this is just a photograph of a bird or "waterfowl" might be a better word choice. Just in case you didn't pick up on it, this part of the post is about my rides around the island :) <br />
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Above: This sign is posted on the wall at a roadside hotdog stand located about half way around the island. If you are not familiar with Seagulls, they are master hotdog thieves. Years ago (when we still ate garbage) a Seagull swooped down and took a hotdog right out of my wife's hand when she was looking the other way.<br />
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Above: On this particular morning the Loons were not very active and I was able to get a few good photographs.<br />
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Above: One of the drivers or "teamsters" told me, Many of the people who come to the island never make it off Main street. And that is truly a shame because the wilderness or natural parts of the island are absolutely beautiful. The locals call these folks Fudgies because the Island is known for it`s many fudge shops on Main Street. They also have a Saunders on main street (a Detroit original) with the best ice cream you will ever taste anywhere. I think they have fudge too.<br />
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Above: These two Loons seem to be posing for this picture. I don`t know if they are nesting or just relaxing. Either way they sure are nice to look at.<br />
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Above: I wanted to get a photograph of "yours truly" sitting in this natural chair. But there was no one around to take the pic. I will make it a point to try it out next time:)<br />
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Above: There are a few picturesque rock formations along the roadside as well. This one appears to have a tree growing out of it.<br />
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Above: Another rock formation along the side of the road. If you really want to see rock formations in Michigan you will want to visit Munising located in Michigan's Upper Peninsula. And while you are there take the Painted Rock Boat Tour. And spend a day or two checking out the half dozen or so local waterfalls. I am looking forward to our next visit to the Munising area.<br />
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Above: Arch Rock is also visible from the road. Or if you do not ride, it is also a stop on the "mega Coach" tour. I had to use a pic from last years picture file. Somehow I totally missed it this trip.<br />
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Above: If you click on this pic to enlarge you might be able to see the carriage approaching from the road ahead. If you have the nerve you can also rent a carriage and a team and drive it yourself. Being a city boy at heart I decided to pass on that experience (for now).
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Above: While stopping for a drink of Gatorade and to check out the woods a hiker named Wayne offered to take a picture for me. Wayne and I chatted for a few minutes and he told be he rides bikes (motorcycles). I told him I too rode "chrome horses" for 30+ years, but health issues put an end to that. Today Wayne was hiking with his wife as no motor vehicles are allowed on the island. So I guess that would make Wayne a "biker hiker". Sorry...lol<br />
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Above: Some folks do live on the island year round. Which is impressive, as the winters this far north can be brutal. So they have a school and a clinic with a certified emergency room and a grocery store. I was told the most common visit to the emergency room is the result of head wounds suffered by tourists on bikes with no bicycle helmets. After what I have seen riding around the island that is no real surprise.<br />
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Above: If you click on this pic to enlarge, you might be able to make out the Mackinac Bridge in the fog. If not you will have to trust me on that one.<br />
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Above: A picture of the old Round Island lighthouse (built in 1895) taken that same foggy morning on one of my bike rides. The building was restored in 1978 for use in the movie "Somewhere in Time.<br />
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Above: There are some modest homes on the island. This is not one of them :) If you hire a carriage and driver you just might hear some interesting stories about the former owners of these beautiful homes. But you won`t hear any from me. <br />
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Above: On this particular morning ride as I was finishing my ride around the island I spotted my darling wife with my <a type="amzn" category="camera & photo">Fuji camera</a> in hand and she took this photograph. Thanks Carolyn, Your the best!
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Above: As for the Kalkhoff folding bike, once I raised the seat post and stem it was actually fairly comfortable. And loading and unloading the bike was fairly simple, although some tools are required. I would imagine a more modern folding bike would be even easier to break down and set up. As for performance, the Sturmey Archer 3 speed hub functioned perfectly. The front wheel has a slight wobble which causes the front brake to intermittently rub ever so slightly. That problem I will correct when I get a chance. Would I bring along the folding bike again? If space was an issue and I was not planning on riding any great distance, then yes. But if I really wanted to ride a lot and for longer distances? Then of course I would choose another bike. But for what it is, the little Kalkhoff performed really well. But as they say "It is what It is" Now here are some more pics from our trip.
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Above: Sunrise on Haldimand Bay<br />
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Above: J.L. Beanery right on the harbor. They make the best B.L.T. on the planet!
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Above: Period dressed rein-actors at Fort Mackinac.
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Above: Great Lakes Maritime Academy vessel coming out of the fog.
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Above: Fountain in the Garden at the Grand Hotel. (in the background)<br />
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Above: A sailboat going through maneuvers. Possibly practicing for the racing season that starts this week.
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Above: Bell and Star, the team that pulled our buggy around the island and their driver Jeramey. It turned out I had family in the upper peninsula town Jeramey grew up in. <br />
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Above: Another working bicycle. This fellow cleans up after the horses. I did finally wake up early enough to hear the crew fire hosing down Main street just before sunrise.<br />
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Above: The flag raised at the Fort<br />
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Above: A freighter passing by the harbor.
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Above: A view from the Tea Room at the fort.
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Above: A porter hard at work<br />
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Above: Sunrise on Main Street<br />
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Above: Resident of the Butterfly House<br />
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Above: The Lilac Hotel Mackinac Island<br />
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Above:Relaxing on Friday the 28th of June our last full day on the island. At this point I was ready to go home and start planning our next holiday.<br />
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Above: A special Thank You to my sometimes photographer and full time partner in life Carolyn. That pretty much covers our week on Mackinac Island. Until Next Time Please RIDE SAFELY and Remember to Always....RESCUE, RESTORE & RECYCLE <br /> Cheers, Hugh
Unknownnoreply@blogger.com10tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4155039544820521548.post-13438412014895799342013-06-22T16:42:00.000-04:002013-07-04T12:30:16.114-04:00 Ladies GIANT "Parts Bike" and American 3 Speed Delivery Bike Project
Hello and Welcome,<br />
I prepped the Zebrakenko mixtie for primer the other day and just as I was carrying it out back to spray, a neighbor just south of me started cutting his very dry grass with his tractor. This created a huge dust cloud that was blowing my way.<br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi7Cnr-HVvei2kAsR-PTrx5toQtrl0TIsWH8XTlnNK7G4wP02wTk_CXoSenwAi7pj3rV6wlkupH-cz9zECKJygcCz_1ev6FbMWBkR_YWeKTJctpgu-OMfXLnBqUa3YNPA-wA1SPffWmY38/s1600/DSCF0540.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi7Cnr-HVvei2kAsR-PTrx5toQtrl0TIsWH8XTlnNK7G4wP02wTk_CXoSenwAi7pj3rV6wlkupH-cz9zECKJygcCz_1ev6FbMWBkR_YWeKTJctpgu-OMfXLnBqUa3YNPA-wA1SPffWmY38/s400/DSCF0540.jpg" /></a></div><br />
Above: So I carried the frame still dangling from the <a type="amzn" category="sports & outdoors">Park PCS work stand</a> by bailing wire back into the shop and parked in the corner again. So it goes...<br />
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Above: About a week ago I found this 1980's Giant rigid <a type="amzn" category="sports & outdoors">woman's mountain bike</a>. I have a good reason to be happy to have found this pink Giant rigid. But I will get to that in a little bit.<br />
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Above: My regular blog followers might remember the rear brake set up on Laura's Trek. Particularly the lever set up that required a two piece brake cable and a <a type="amzn" category="tools & hardware">knarp</a>. I described it as "engineering designed to impress" rather than to actually improve performance". I thought it was silly then, and I still do. But what brought that to mind after all this time?<br />
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Above: This set up is what got me thinking about Laura's Trek again. Simplicity is a beautiful thing. Here is the <a type="amzn" category="sports & outdoors">rear brake cable pulley</a> on the woman's Giant rigid mountain bike. The Raleighesque pulley wheel is removable for replacement. One continuous cable directly (indirectly might be a better word) connected to the cable hanger. And if your wondering about performance? Yes it functions beautifully, even after years untouched in storage. Of course the brake shoes are hard as a rock. But that is to be expected.<br />
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Above: While I am on the subject of simple and serviceable engineering that works really well.. You gotta love these <a type="amzn" category="sports & outdoors">Shimano SIS thumb shifters</a>. Not very impressive, but reliable as they could possibly be. And very easy to replace the shift cable or the entire unit for that mattter. Well I can see why they got rid of these damn things. They just made too much sense. God forbid anyone would want a simple system that works great and is really easy to service. I have met other casual cyclists like myself who also prefer these simple and reliable shifters. But just why did I buy this Pink bike anyway? My God, it Is bloody ugly! But also beautiful in it's functional and serviceable simplicity. However, in the past I have not had much luck finding new homes for obnoxiously Pink bikes. <br />
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Above: With the exception of the Pink <a type="amzn" category="sports & outdoors">Mongoose Freestyle Girl </a> a bike that went rather quickly. But it was in "like new" condition and was priced to move. I did not make any money on that bike, but at least I didn't loose any either. OK back to the question,so why did I buy this "not so perfect" pink Giant mountain bike?<br />
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Above: When looking at the pink 1980's Ladies Giant.. I thought wow! I bet I can salvage enough off this bike to pretty much build the Orange 1980'S Men's Giant rigid frame bike (BLACK ARROW) that has been hanging from the Garage/Shop wall for "God only knows how long". And just maybe I can finally make good use of the new crank (RED ARROW) that is still on the left over "parts bike" from the for mentioned Laura's Trek build. At this point I am picturing (in my mind) a pretty sweet looking little <a type="amzn" category="sports & outdoors">rigid frame mountain bike</a>. I am thinking about using some "high volume phat on/off road tires" like on the chrome Raleigh Teton. A hell of a good idea, if I may say so myself.<br />
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Above: The front and rear 26 inch FEMCO wheels spin straight with no noticeable grind or wobble. They appear to be in excellent condition. I will still check both wheels for true. Then I will break down the axles and inspect the axle, cones and bearings then clean and re grease everything.
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Above: The front axle has a <a type="amzn" category="sports & outdoors">quick release skewer</a> (always a good thing) and the hub looks like it will polish up nicely with a little "<a type="amzn" category="automotive">Mother's Mag and Aluminum Polish</a>". I noticed the front wheel was on backwards with the skewer lever on the drive side. But the cyclometer is set up for the wheel being on backwards, So for now I will just flip it back around.<br />
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Above: If the <a type="amzn" category="sports & outdoors">Cyclometer</a> works I may use it on the build. Or possibly even install it on the 29'er. <br />
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Above: The handlebars, shifters, brake levers and possibly the grips will all be reused. (I might upgrade the grips) But if I want to reuse this stem, I will need to "make like Mick Jagger" and Paint it Black. <br />
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Above: The <a type="amzn" category="sports & outdoors">rear derailleur</a> is ok, but I might have a better salvaged unit in my rear derailleur tub. If I remember right... the orange Giant has a threaded rear derailleur mount hole on the drop out. No doubt a higher end model than the Pink Giant.
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Above: The <a type="amzn" category="sports & outdoors">front derailleur</a> also appears to be very "entry level". But... If it cleans up nicely and functions well, I may reuse it. Again I will have to see what I have available in the salvaged front derailleur tub.
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Above: This was a good plan, and still is. But the other day while I was raking stones off our freshly graded front yard, a friend called. He said something like "Hugh I have a couple bikes for you, they were in a customers basement. They have been trying to give them to me for years, so I finally loaded them up. Are you interested?"
My answer: "Yes I am definitely interested". So here is one of them, a <a type="amzn" category="sports & outdoors">Men's 3 Speed</a> "All-Pro" (K Mart Bike). This pic was taken after a few hours of clean up. It handled the long term storage pretty well. All except for the rims that is.<br />
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Above: Here is a shot of "the rustiest part" of the front rim. This one I probably have a suitable replacement for. I have a Woman's Fuji 3 speed I have been stealing parts off for years. I would consider using the rear wheel as well, but the shift mechanism is on the opposite side of the rear hub. <br />
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Above: Here is the same shot of the rear rim. This wheel I do not have a suitable replacement for. I think I will brass wheel-brush both rims and polish them both up. And then I will decide if I need to replace them. I have a Wald front wire basket that I am sure will fit up front. And a Schwinn collapsible rear two sided basket (saddlebag style) that I might be able to retro fit. So basically I will be building a "delivery bike".<br />
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The same moisture that was bad for the rims, seems to have been good for the tires. They are in incredible shape considering, no visible cracking whatsoever. (Not visible until I got a good look at the digital photographs that is) There appears to be some cracking in the treads. I guess the tires could be replacements. But I doubt it, as everything else looks very much original. UPDATE: As of July 4th 2013 the tires are still holding air and maintaining pressure. <br />
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Above: I will be on vacation next week. I will try once again to update the blog from the island using my <a type="amzn" category="electronics">Dell lap top</a>. I did not have any success accessing the net last year. This year I will find someone at the hotel to show me how to use the free Wi-Fi. Your not supposed to mention on face book when you are going to be on vacation. But the house will not be vacant my son will be staying at the house and taking care the place and the cats and critters.<br />
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As I am typing this our vacation has already begun and we will be driving up to Mackinac Island in the morning. I might just haul the Kalkhoff <a type="amzn" category="sports & outdoors">folding bike</a> the trunk. I would like to see how it compares to bringing along a full size bike. Is the convenience really worth giving up a full size bike for a week? As I would not have to assemble it in the parking lot at the ferry service. Or worry about my new 29'er sitting out in the elements for a week.<br />
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Above: I took a break from writing this post and went out to the shop/garage for a while just to see if the collapsible rear baskets/rack would fit the 3 speed. As sometimes happens I kept on going wanting to see if the <a type="amzn" category="sports & outdoors">Wald front basket</a> would also fit. Obviously it did :)<br />
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Above: After converting the stem mounted front reflector bracket to an extra mounting bracket for the Wald basket I decided to make up a basket mounted reflector bracket for the front reflector. I used some left over rear rack mounting hardware to fashion this reflector mount bracket. It took a little trial and error as well as some hack sawing and hammering and filing. But eventually I came up with something that should work. (and hold up) When finished I cut off the extra threads from the bolt so it would not snag on anything that might be placed into the basket in the future. For this cut I used the <a type="amzn" category="tools & hardware">rotary tool</a> with a mini cutting wheel.<br />
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Above: The <a type="amzn" category="sports & outdoors">rear collapsible baskets</a> and clipped into position. Do not let the pictures fool you, there is still much work to do on this bike before it goes to work. But it will have to wait until we return from our holiday.<br /> Until Next Time Please RIDE SAFELY and Remember to Always...RESCUE, RESTORE & RECYCLE<br />
Cheers, Hugh
Unknownnoreply@blogger.com9tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4155039544820521548.post-86481873488514629682013-06-10T22:28:00.001-04:002013-06-13T19:27:08.422-04:00CREE XM 1200 Lumen Headlamp ReviewHello and Welcome, <br />
A while back I purchased my first real rechargeable headlamp, the <a type="amzn" category="sports & outdoors">CREE XM 1200</a>. I say "real rechargeable" because I have used rechargeable batteries in my <a type="amzn"category="sports & outdoors"> ZeFal head and tail lamps</a>. But this lamp has a rechargeable battery pack. It also comes with a band for wearing the lamp on your head. But unless you have a tiny little head ( and I don't) it is really very uncomfortable. It also comes with a charger and a pouch with a Velcro strap for attaching the battery pack to your bike or whatever. I did not purchase the lamp to wear on my head, so I don't really give a rip about the head gear.<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhQWFTPPMrhFwSPD5ttf67Pt2oKInNNNgJBI0z-ry3TrzkMBn2sY6BCnxh79gC6EOYixHmrx7pt1DwYxu3sRUT5B4XkpFABwHyZ5LNqztAQFCr0FOqh7xdWJioapQhu4y8PY18Ykw2GscY/s1600/DSCF7421.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhQWFTPPMrhFwSPD5ttf67Pt2oKInNNNgJBI0z-ry3TrzkMBn2sY6BCnxh79gC6EOYixHmrx7pt1DwYxu3sRUT5B4XkpFABwHyZ5LNqztAQFCr0FOqh7xdWJioapQhu4y8PY18Ykw2GscY/s400/DSCF7421.jpg" width="400" /></a>
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Above: The lamp mount is simple enough. It has a half round base with a hook front and back. Using a supplied rubber O Ring around the bars connecting front and rear to the base it holds the lamp in place pretty well. I thought the included O ring was a little too fat for the front hook, which is slightly obscured by the power supply wire. I chose to use a smaller diameter O Ring for mine.<br />
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Above: Here I have attached the battery pack to the stem, letting the pouch rest against the head tube. I am riding on mostly smooth and hard packed surfaces, so I do not need to be too careful. I did wrap the power supply wire around the handlebars a few times to take up the slack. When using the headlamp on the L.L. Bean bike or the Single Speed / <a type="amzn" category="sports & outdoors">Fixed Gear Bike</a> Flat Lander I can stash the battery pack and excess power cord in the front <a type="amzn" category="sports & outdoors">rack top bag</a>. Which does look a "bit neater" if that sort of thing matters to you.<br />
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Above: The charger is great. It has an indicator light that turns from Red to Green when the the battery pack is fully charged. I would recommend removing the battery pack from the pouch during charging. And I never place the battery pack directly on a table top or counter top. I like to set the battery pack on a ceramic coaster during charging.<br />
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Above: Here is a better view of the base and O Ring. Although I have no desire to wear the lamp on my head.. I should mention that during a recent power outage I used this little lamp to light up our living room. It did a wonderful job. And I only had it on the low and medium settings. The strobe or flashing setting is extremely bright and would be a really effective emergency signal light. And despite "one negative review" it charges and holds a charge just fine. Like any rechargeable You do not want to leave it outside in cold weather.<br />
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Above: Other than a very small sheet of basic directions this is what you get. The headlamp with supply cord,
the charger and the battery pack and the battery pouch with Velcro strap. And of course the head gear for those of you with tiny little heads that might want to use that feature. Did I mention how small the headband is?...ltms<br />
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Above: The CREE XM 1200 Headlamp mounted on the L.L. Bean. About Performance... Don't let the small size fool you! This little lamp lights the road unbelievably well. Riding at night I remember thinking to myself "this lights up the road better than the headlamp on my 1969 Yamaha scrambler." (a motorcycle I once owned many many years ago) What really amazed me was seeing the headlamp on strobe setting light up reflective road signs during the day! In all fairness, I was on a heavily tree lined road at the time. <br />
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Above: I used the quarter (for scale) to give you a better idea of the actual size of the light. I know I was surprised by how small it was when I first opened the box. But it made me a believer out of me. And did it for not as whole lot of cash. Now I doubt it matchs up with lights that cost 2 to 4 times the price. But I suspect it will come a lot closer than you think.<br />
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Above: A few pics from recent local rides to local lakes. Above White Lake from my <a type="amzn" category="sports & outdoors">Diamondback Overdrive 29'er</a>.<br />
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Above: Same lake a little farther down the road.<br />
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Above: White lake (same day) and a view back down the road from which I came. Standing on the shore just west of the White Lake Inn.<br />
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Above: Duck Lake earlier that same day. This is the private beach for the back lot owners. I never use this beach anymore. But the back lot owners association does a wonderful job maintaining it.
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhUW1FPB_FhaT5xObm7WoeNYl8b1k4VyN9MaWRktlGIv3-B_za3YyUAv5UPdmsLi9kMGs669sxlGwPgTjT8RO30_btnzIfrvkPrDRZVXx8eLGpUuqo6rRrg8fBMKxm5H428T15QnbBb6TU/s1600/DSCF7396.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhUW1FPB_FhaT5xObm7WoeNYl8b1k4VyN9MaWRktlGIv3-B_za3YyUAv5UPdmsLi9kMGs669sxlGwPgTjT8RO30_btnzIfrvkPrDRZVXx8eLGpUuqo6rRrg8fBMKxm5H428T15QnbBb6TU/s400/DSCF7396.jpg" width="400" /></a><br />
Above: A boat crossing the channel into the deep end of Duck lake. Much of Duck lake is very shallow. A <a type="amzn" category="sports & outdoors">pontoon boat</a> or <a type="amzn" category="sports & outdoors">flat bottom boat</a> is the best way to go on this lake.<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi1uP7m8HaWb-ZIGrPTb5u5DyB7WS-KgEbL-hw5I_vf3dzL5_UwIjr8GYaEuHvSYL7_I1w-QqaZRhD1-FLJxZsBhCdaF_p8BOWZsX3Rkx8jBWVcRgAZjUWlHhsiGInJxDUMWNZj1BN98Iw/s1600/DSCF7407.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi1uP7m8HaWb-ZIGrPTb5u5DyB7WS-KgEbL-hw5I_vf3dzL5_UwIjr8GYaEuHvSYL7_I1w-QqaZRhD1-FLJxZsBhCdaF_p8BOWZsX3Rkx8jBWVcRgAZjUWlHhsiGInJxDUMWNZj1BN98Iw/s400/DSCF7407.jpg" width="400" /></a> <br />
Above: A ride to Alderman lake (also a local lake) on another day. This lake is smaller but more natural. I have snorkeled here in the past. This was taken from the boat launch. Alderman lake would be a good place to <a type="amzn" category="sports & outdoors">kayak</a>. Although Wildwood lake in Holly Mi would be even better. Memorial day weekend and the Alderman lake parking lot was empty.<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiSGaeJfjH6p3a4ngN5VbqP3d1F3GIvPHa0YJ0OgxSDFwNszHXk3C8DKX4qj_M56trpaACP2YY88aYCOvG1zMiF17dcV7-3c_IlHRo8f1O80vbEnogQ-LQUIrjeyk82wMpkWuoQerdiCjI/s1600/DSCF7419.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiSGaeJfjH6p3a4ngN5VbqP3d1F3GIvPHa0YJ0OgxSDFwNszHXk3C8DKX4qj_M56trpaACP2YY88aYCOvG1zMiF17dcV7-3c_IlHRo8f1O80vbEnogQ-LQUIrjeyk82wMpkWuoQerdiCjI/s400/DSCF7419.jpg" width="400" /></a>
Above: The road towards home from Alderman lake. The <a type="amzn" category="sports & outdoors">new 29'er</a> has been perfect for riding on and off the roads here. It is pretty much the only bike I ride anymore. <br />
Until next time, Please RIDE SAFELY and remember to Always.....RESCUE, RESTORE & RECYCLE<br />
Cheers,HughUnknownnoreply@blogger.com8tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4155039544820521548.post-22941015187819745852013-05-29T10:25:00.000-04:002013-06-13T19:55:50.683-04:00Bicycle Flat Tires, Blow Outs and Slow Leaks Hello and Welcome,
Reoccurring flat tires and slow leaks can be baffling. It is not always obvious what the cause is. This post will talk about some not so typical causes of flat tires and slow leaks. <br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgUF_Srmbh-0xGLUmQheMJT0Ea2c2UtBaAXi0PeSM7ELmBgjgh7Yhb8eY4W4lt9xgGRmWn5uX3WIC1GqnBdyV6EUyahJ5NC0XoEAvh0lyl7kXtKUY_uXuEV1JqAe_AYr7iIB6WfdowB3cU/s1600/DSCF7373.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgUF_Srmbh-0xGLUmQheMJT0Ea2c2UtBaAXi0PeSM7ELmBgjgh7Yhb8eY4W4lt9xgGRmWn5uX3WIC1GqnBdyV6EUyahJ5NC0XoEAvh0lyl7kXtKUY_uXuEV1JqAe_AYr7iIB6WfdowB3cU/s400/DSCF7373.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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This clogged <a type="amzn" category="sports & outdoors">Schrader valve</a> caused a slow but persistent loss of air pressure. This leak was found by inflating the inner tube and working it around slowly und<span id="goog_998985384"></span><span id="goog_998985385"></span>er water.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjMG1J-v2koJPavcmuNfdeZtXRBYwyoElpAHPfVMoyu9Kf22as_kzLjFTbmFFSiTO4k32P1agL7BqSp_jAw5p35HRh-U7k5FRsEuEGMflQYFFNMFHok4JOhclS4FhSnxGVEfUc6AbN7hs8/s1600/DSCF7367.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjMG1J-v2koJPavcmuNfdeZtXRBYwyoElpAHPfVMoyu9Kf22as_kzLjFTbmFFSiTO4k32P1agL7BqSp_jAw5p35HRh-U7k5FRsEuEGMflQYFFNMFHok4JOhclS4FhSnxGVEfUc6AbN7hs8/s400/DSCF7367.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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Above: This is an uncommon cause for a bicycle flat tire. Jagged edges caused by welds that were not ground down during manufacturing. Or sharp edges caused by not grinding down a weld enough during manufacturing. To smooth out this weld I ground it down using my <a type="amzn" category="tools & hardware">4 inch Makita angle grinder</a>. I was lucky enough to be at Powers Schwinn one day many years ago when the latter was found to be the cause of a reoccurring flat on a new Schwinn bicycle. This is not a problem you are likely to have with higher end wheels.
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhzqUMdkdS18Eom63ljV0jbYQOht1_9Gdv42uklfDfxsesglfxJ4RGx6QKoPvnITT31jTrhWaKmTM2XrFGVxzIk3Q2eXGK4M71EmHqdDILB0ut7a1etiMP9rlsyJwI5ZRF1-AQmlrKtcfc/s1600/DSCF7377.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhzqUMdkdS18Eom63ljV0jbYQOht1_9Gdv42uklfDfxsesglfxJ4RGx6QKoPvnITT31jTrhWaKmTM2XrFGVxzIk3Q2eXGK4M71EmHqdDILB0ut7a1etiMP9rlsyJwI5ZRF1-AQmlrKtcfc/s400/DSCF7377.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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Above: The incorrect tire size is a fairly easy cause to spot. If at the correct pressure the tire blows off the rim
causing the inner tube to bulge out the side and rupture. That is a pretty good indicator that your tire and rim are not a match. I have been told by one of my suppliers that a 26 x 1.75 is not the same as a 26 x 1 & 3/4 I have never challenged this info and have no plans to in the future. Also some older Schwinn models require a special type tire like the S-7 . So read your tires care fully before ordering. And if you have any doubt call the supplier and ask for the tech person. (that is what he or she is there for) <br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiHOzix2zJFqyC22Y2uLnCEjNypAXSv0HXP5sJrbUrNVLSocBnUh5MEUOfiqTCV6qQ-6quWaxAkQBvQC0A-ppx4iyaefXdHtqYgWM4fVeuUg7YMmflyNB5qtNW7bZ-0rwYCxeW14_wNNsI/s1600/DSCF7376.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiHOzix2zJFqyC22Y2uLnCEjNypAXSv0HXP5sJrbUrNVLSocBnUh5MEUOfiqTCV6qQ-6quWaxAkQBvQC0A-ppx4iyaefXdHtqYgWM4fVeuUg7YMmflyNB5qtNW7bZ-0rwYCxeW14_wNNsI/s400/DSCF7376.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
Above: Incorrect or non matching ISO numbers are usually the cause of the type of tire blow-off described above. This is the ISO info for the same tire shown above. I mention ISO numbers a lot because it is a pretty common problem with beginners. As it was for me when I first got into the bicycle repair and restoration thing. The ISO numbers indicate the inside diameter of the tire.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj6NFjHQZfd2-z0SLlD60Q4_TiM_lU_isvyn9_e8I_VMLNCvX6MVyBJIPn3PlaYNcR54Nx0VDB7jjvKhGE3LmYTSPChm0xQZnslee8LeNyJbX-ZTks3KAiftX621UUrAIUUnBDLvErE94I/s1600/DSCF7380.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj6NFjHQZfd2-z0SLlD60Q4_TiM_lU_isvyn9_e8I_VMLNCvX6MVyBJIPn3PlaYNcR54Nx0VDB7jjvKhGE3LmYTSPChm0xQZnslee8LeNyJbX-ZTks3KAiftX621UUrAIUUnBDLvErE94I/s400/DSCF7380.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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Above: The incorrect valve stem type can also cause problems. This rim has a large hole for a Schrader type valve stem. If you were to use a inner tube with a <a type="amzn" category="sports & outdoors">Presta valve</a> without some sort of adapter the tube can easily blow out at high pressure and rupture.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhEuHZ_eMxYkY1tGRu875gkrYFsbUInjTS6uxXCyGSY08kqOIZ93Zm22bmBLDhwRfwKlzknYISz0ZjogaCrIP5BDpI4xhyphenhyphenkPdgP5aK7NpTGzLdE_-8wfQ78OAu0LWp9toTFlywf3igjzuE/s1600/DSCF7382.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhEuHZ_eMxYkY1tGRu875gkrYFsbUInjTS6uxXCyGSY08kqOIZ93Zm22bmBLDhwRfwKlzknYISz0ZjogaCrIP5BDpI4xhyphenhyphenkPdgP5aK7NpTGzLdE_-8wfQ78OAu0LWp9toTFlywf3igjzuE/s400/DSCF7382.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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Above: Improper use of tools. Only one of the tools shown above,(Spoon type bicycle tire lever) is designed for removing bicycle tires. If you are going to use something other than the correct tool to remove tires, you better make damn sure it has only smooth rounded edges.(unlike the slotted screwdriver shown above)
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi4cG2PxSpbEpRgIeNHrWmLP2F7_yJQWoDRLjgf4o0rrjJ1F8xN_QlS7Zido8hiZjFaZkBsxBcpBLwPgcs2J229ChDYWDkypAj_Pf0pVsTaBat0UIMTiLnpUpuL1iANWkmsBPq1r_NjUpo/s1600/DSCF7431.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi4cG2PxSpbEpRgIeNHrWmLP2F7_yJQWoDRLjgf4o0rrjJ1F8xN_QlS7Zido8hiZjFaZkBsxBcpBLwPgcs2J229ChDYWDkypAj_Pf0pVsTaBat0UIMTiLnpUpuL1iANWkmsBPq1r_NjUpo/s400/DSCF7431.jpg" width="400" /></a><br />
About the only "other tool" I have seen used successfully to pry bicycle tires tires off rims was the handle of an old set of <a type="amzn" category="tools & hardware">pliers</a>. And that was on cruiser style tires. I doubt a pliers handle would work well on high pressure road or racing tires. I was about about 10 or 11 years old when I tried to pry off a tire off using a slotted screwdriver. Of course I punctured the tube and then had two holes to patch. Bill at the old Sinclair gas station (in my hometown) showed me how to use the pliers handle. Now days most pliers have rubber coated handles. And they do not necessarily have smooth edges under the rubber or plastic grips. So your best bet by far is to use a proper bicycle tire lever. Shown above <a type="amzn" category="sports & outdoors">Park Tool tire levers</a> from a "Park Tool" <a type="amzn" category="sports & outdoors">bicycle tire repair kit</a>.
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhd03Xuh1DXALas_wMxnre4KQh8MhCBQuax-utRtDN7tc1LoYPDFlc-3vf5HsqSOTVrJPDmygtUCAvrOxQFT6HZ3IOpijSilSpqrakBV1zrI5Oo2N-ugiiqlSD1R-6T99ZUqdZkl8InxfQ/s1600/DSCF7381.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhd03Xuh1DXALas_wMxnre4KQh8MhCBQuax-utRtDN7tc1LoYPDFlc-3vf5HsqSOTVrJPDmygtUCAvrOxQFT6HZ3IOpijSilSpqrakBV1zrI5Oo2N-ugiiqlSD1R-6T99ZUqdZkl8InxfQ/s400/DSCF7381.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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Above: If your tire pressure goes all the way down when your bike has been stored long term. For The Love Of God don`t roll the bike around like that! Either bring your pump to the bike or carry your bike (or tire) to the pump. Next to the screwdriver thing "pinching the tube" might be the most preventable way to get a flat tire. And you will want to pump it up too about 20 psi, then release the air and refill this will help prevent the inner-tube from kinking.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiXE-vQD-6xWNDS88OBswyQaZSIGp05pGG3iaqv1SbFAVfbSKtuKnueNERhcXNBCjudHrpET8QFGgzlnnND2jXdkBDmZYOpK5tTF5vj2GCovkpBFQE9NSoZjQOTp_RJCtdM_9oJX3LqUYU/s1600/DSCF7146.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiXE-vQD-6xWNDS88OBswyQaZSIGp05pGG3iaqv1SbFAVfbSKtuKnueNERhcXNBCjudHrpET8QFGgzlnnND2jXdkBDmZYOpK5tTF5vj2GCovkpBFQE9NSoZjQOTp_RJCtdM_9oJX3LqUYU/s400/DSCF7146.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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Above: You can also puncture the tube while mounting the tire. I prefer to mount my tires by hand. If you have to use a tire pry bar, keep it to an absolute minimum. Also using a larger tube than you need is going to make it more likely that you will get the tube stuck (pinched) between the rim and the tire bead while mounting. In other words if my tire is 20 x 1.25 I will purchase a tube that is maxed out at 1.25 (if possible) It would read something like "fits 20 x 1.0 to 20 x 1.25 . In my opinion the fatter the tube the more likely it is to get in the way. I also prefer to have just enough air in the tube to hold it's shape while inserting it into the tire. If need be I can release the pressure when mounting the tire. As always...To help avoid your inner tube from kinking inside the tire inflate it to around 20 lbs psi. Then release the air and then refill the tire to desired pressure.</div>
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Above: The first thing I check if I have a slow leak is the Schrader valve. This <a type="amzn" category="tools & hardware">Schrader valve tool</a> is made for removing and installing Schrader valves. The tool has a hollow tube end with notches that fit over the top of the valve. The core of the valve is replaceable, the threading is typical clockwise to tighten and counter clockwise to loosen or remove. Or if you prefer "rightly tightly" / "lefty loosey". Obviously you do not want to apply a lot of torque when checking for tightness. If it does not turn clockwise with minimal pressure it is threaded in all the way.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjcI4h-z7g5rTpKwPNe2vK81n_1_5TJSq3IczLoy2E6-eIVZ6w2K-KNY9XbAigjoACjAof2Eu3Rg5EpMsKGjjKn3jUuE69Lqc_QzFAti1gafAglO9qMCdtb_195PJsNMd9k3tRp9rCzetk/s1600/5+31+2013+park+vc+1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="350" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjcI4h-z7g5rTpKwPNe2vK81n_1_5TJSq3IczLoy2E6-eIVZ6w2K-KNY9XbAigjoACjAof2Eu3Rg5EpMsKGjjKn3jUuE69Lqc_QzFAti1gafAglO9qMCdtb_195PJsNMd9k3tRp9rCzetk/s400/5+31+2013+park+vc+1.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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Above: A Presta valve core is removed or tightened basically the same way. It does however require a different tool. The <a type="amzn" category="sports & outdoors">Park Tool VC-1</a> tool will work on both Presta and Schrader valves. I will not talk about typical punctures as we all know a nail or piece of glass (or metal) will puncture a tire. I will suggest that you check into puncture resistant tubes if you ride in an urban area with lots of glass and other debris. Also you might want to look into <a type="amzn" category="sports & outdoors">puncture resistant bicycle tires</a>. Some tires have a Kevlar layer to help prevent punctures. There are also puncture guard strips that can be placed inside the tire to help prevent flats. And there are self sealing inner tubes available. I personally do not use any liquid sealer in my inner-tubes, but that is just my preference.</div>
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Above: Soon I will soon be reviewing my first truly <a type="amzn" category="sports & outdoors">rechargeable bicycle headlamp</a>. And reviewing the <a type="amzn" category="sports & outdoors">Diamondback 29er</a> now that I have had it a while. I regret I have not done any bicycle restoration work lately. We are currently having our kitchen and dining area remodeled. Which also includes a guest bathroom and laundry closet. Right after this project began, we started the process of repairing our septic system. I have also been cleaning up the mess that having a new well drilled created. Once the inside work is finished I should be able to jump back into the bicycle restoration work.</div>
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Above: A pic from a recent ride along the north end of White lake. I have made it a point to get out and ride more lately. Riding is a great way to to get rid of the stress that comes along with having multiple home remodeling and repair projects going simultaneously. </div>
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEio76irr9h7NTdFHn_yrvf2wm69PMwd5TlUgldWrKBd-kv-uhf6lN2QO-tBoP7UcpTU7C50MkQGXB-vqbs-vhO9MS0jm8VUgQH7aKxAGx6xctABQb7lDloUk6RM-hAc0dIgewqwWXGwEIc/s1600/DSCF7419.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEio76irr9h7NTdFHn_yrvf2wm69PMwd5TlUgldWrKBd-kv-uhf6lN2QO-tBoP7UcpTU7C50MkQGXB-vqbs-vhO9MS0jm8VUgQH7aKxAGx6xctABQb7lDloUk6RM-hAc0dIgewqwWXGwEIc/s400/DSCF7419.jpg" width="400" /></a><br />
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Above: The road home from Alderman Lake. Photo taken on another recent bicycle ride.
Until next time, Please Ride Safely and Remember to Always...RESCUE, RESTORE & RECYCLE </div>
Cheers, Hugh
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEibAPhNn8TnTDEkU2e6I2w4X3MduLgTF3PK3HlEKyh8ftSQEZb6Qd2PQvOaM_7LrL-M_HGjgaAKxVYaJGkLHf-ClzoMWDBo4sqMCm7euPJQ92bc7tP-bMQNXkhHlPr2QojTzTBouwtC7cQ/s1600/DSCF0353.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEibAPhNn8TnTDEkU2e6I2w4X3MduLgTF3PK3HlEKyh8ftSQEZb6Qd2PQvOaM_7LrL-M_HGjgaAKxVYaJGkLHf-ClzoMWDBo4sqMCm7euPJQ92bc7tP-bMQNXkhHlPr2QojTzTBouwtC7cQ/s400/DSCF0353.jpg" width="400" /></a><br />
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A Special THANK YOU to those of you have been checking out Hugh's Online Bike Shop. The link to Hugh's Online Bike Shop is located on this page in the right column near the top, just below the followers / members. You probably noticed that I am now adding word links to components, tools and supplies ect. ect. that I mention in my blog posts. Like the Store these links are powered by amazon.com . I am doing this to make it more convenient to purchase things that interest you on the blog. Also if you are new to bicycle work, and you are not sure what I am talking about? You can click on the word link just to see some examples of what I am referring to. I look at this as a positive change and I hope you do too. </div>
Thanks, Hugh
Unknownnoreply@blogger.com8tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4155039544820521548.post-25727745861327437652013-05-05T22:24:00.001-04:002013-05-07T16:10:40.707-04:00 Rhino Outcast F.S. mtb complete overhaul Hello and Welcome,
A friend contacted me the other day and asked me if I could possibly repair a friend's (of his)<a type="amzn" category="sports & outdoors"> mountain bike</a> . The owner needs it to get back and forth to work. He told me that they would also bring along a parts bike that might have some salvageable components. <br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjPAkjn5jyzOkpF5GJSWDgm08Vfq-Ou4t4mWEOtg1or7iA8I7uTAQMppWAWaCHxpyFgM6OJQ0hrkQXW648j2kROlfvHe5V6m5M0PWmINrmvwxz1aj8ClvBQakYP3KDgB-D35uO-n67kik8/s1600/DSCF7335.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjPAkjn5jyzOkpF5GJSWDgm08Vfq-Ou4t4mWEOtg1or7iA8I7uTAQMppWAWaCHxpyFgM6OJQ0hrkQXW648j2kROlfvHe5V6m5M0PWmINrmvwxz1aj8ClvBQakYP3KDgB-D35uO-n67kik8/s400/DSCF7335.jpg" width="400" /></a>
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Above: At this point I have already cleaned up the bike using about a half dozen <a type="amzn" category="automotive">Armor All Cleaning Wipes</a>. I have also installed a salvaged seat post and saddle. The list of problems with this bike is long, so I won`t try to list them I will just talk about them as I go. <br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh9d20fvnlJEWhfY4ZS7i9SQcM2k9YXss3DlFNo9R8kF81bw9M5Qr0oU_9TMJquw-ingrg6q29C7LvENvo7MWbBVgLi-RAqjZEBDbRwyBj3gQnUOWxXdai_ZCgRURq0DF69Vnj9VeTl9cg/s1600/DSCF7337.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh9d20fvnlJEWhfY4ZS7i9SQcM2k9YXss3DlFNo9R8kF81bw9M5Qr0oU_9TMJquw-ingrg6q29C7LvENvo7MWbBVgLi-RAqjZEBDbRwyBj3gQnUOWxXdai_ZCgRURq0DF69Vnj9VeTl9cg/s400/DSCF7337.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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Above: The <a type="amzn" category="sports & outdoors">26 inch mtb front wheel</a>. The hub was very loose, (cones way out of adjustment) the tire was almost flat and the wheel needs some truing. The good news is! I pumped up the tires and they appear to be holding air. I was amazed to find grease on the bearings. And the grease did not have those hard specks I found in the grease on the New <a type="amzn" category="sports & outdoors">Thruster fixed gear bike</a>. I should also mention that I inspected the tires very closely. They are still very pliable and don`t even show a hint of cracking. Also I did replace the cable housings that felt sticky do to rust. And both of the cables I took from the parts bike look like new. I did add a few drops of clear oil to the cable housings as well.
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg7QF6MdI_ylI0a6DoV15UmZ3h5smf7VrC7JVrohOQnbGr9YcaeKCu1fi_2m1lMiQkKd_f7FTDxJ3q2VovHC8PAUpI2PoK-3jqnaeCQYAq8BHUBiQTMiL59u_6v-OSi8tPmwf2aVZqnyTU/s1600/DSCF7336.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg7QF6MdI_ylI0a6DoV15UmZ3h5smf7VrC7JVrohOQnbGr9YcaeKCu1fi_2m1lMiQkKd_f7FTDxJ3q2VovHC8PAUpI2PoK-3jqnaeCQYAq8BHUBiQTMiL59u_6v-OSi8tPmwf2aVZqnyTU/s400/DSCF7336.jpg" width="400" /></a>
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Above: After cleaning up the hub parts with <a type="amzn" category="sports & outdoors">White Lightning Clean Streak</a> I regreased and reassembled it with the cones set properly (no grind/no play).
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhZhzxpkLf9fGrA7Hl1y_yGUl4SrAt2j2vMTDjPgqWBOLnZornWd3eQrFVq4zsWRICPUfrFbi63PbRuQEit0wV8t6Mc9HBhy34Wrfrfbk-YZjoSWNLZmIWdi_sheFVKdVaKRbTyqmOkYGw/s1600/DSCF7350.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg33nMHnNz5tpvrq4eGNa5iW1za0o9fEFedvGMW4Neyja0pwx2moMNlbADBVmd1VyA8bB-YgoVXp3YwOWmB5sRk0e2Gsv_PbCs1qPzZ99Ms3oW5HwRuONLSuqOSKePj0KRNWove5o1f5pE/s400/DSCF7351.jpg" width="400" /></a>
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Above: I also cleaned up the hub inside and out. It now spins nicely and for quite a while. The truing needed is not that bad. I will true the wheels latter on without removing the tires. Or removing the wheels from the bike for that matter. On an entry level cruiser or mountain bike the using the <a type="amzn" category="sports & outdoors">wheel truing stand</a> is not necessary.
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhL8T4WYoQ_I5dv-N8J6i80PXjA9gU3D1H966dmFQeLRgY-lvd2YoRcWwVhyphenhypheniOYIXgRpTQYRdNvGkXyYP49_0XZ3B8ooyNuccEQZjWuq3dLaRDjNwHT90ATvhG6ICfjjkGHnMmY75835UA/s1600/DSCF7357.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhL8T4WYoQ_I5dv-N8J6i80PXjA9gU3D1H966dmFQeLRgY-lvd2YoRcWwVhyphenhypheniOYIXgRpTQYRdNvGkXyYP49_0XZ3B8ooyNuccEQZjWuq3dLaRDjNwHT90ATvhG6ICfjjkGHnMmY75835UA/s400/DSCF7357.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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Above: While the parts bike does look like a total p.o.s. it did prove to be invaluable before this overhaul was finished. I might add the <a type="amzn" category="sports & outdoors">26 inch mtb tires</a> and pedals on the parts bike show no wear at all. You know instead of going to the department store and paying 150.00 for a bike and then leaving it out in the yard to rust. Maybe this fool should have driven to a homeless shelter and given them 75.00 Then they would still have 75.00 and could have felt good about have done something positive for another human being. I do not mean to preach but being this wasteful is just wrong. Especially when so many are trying to get by with so little.
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiKcUkJ0kOZBW3GX34aGKCkuQeWDElth8bBhvkM9Wkfe3cPk41qPcOevvTrud2dRsJD8gAUGQ90bnmerqw8PCmIdzBJqZC3KpGXvUbJas8vNad-FZf0D2KOfiQFyKg-JxI9Knt63ZGbDzo/s1600/DSCF7350.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiKcUkJ0kOZBW3GX34aGKCkuQeWDElth8bBhvkM9Wkfe3cPk41qPcOevvTrud2dRsJD8gAUGQ90bnmerqw8PCmIdzBJqZC3KpGXvUbJas8vNad-FZf0D2KOfiQFyKg-JxI9Knt63ZGbDzo/s400/DSCF7350.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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Above: Shown is the yellow <a type="amzn" category="sports & outdoors">front linear brake</a> I salvaged from the parts bike. The original front linear brake, noodle and rubber boot were damaged. And miraculously these same parts were all in good condition on the parts bike. After some "fah nagle ing" I got the replacement front brake working pretty well. After I true the wheel I will be able to set it even tighter.
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj8SAU26GN17IXbhsIWIu2a4brZ-AFsguhr3vXFslWx9QoIR8t9YxtXic7IqfwY3co_bB5_kM2l9nH_GK9BLSObBXP4Gl-Tap5dM-PH2NCxtEnLIfZdGLvB-jLNzo-L2NrlDoQgfHdVguA/s1600/DSCF7340.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj8SAU26GN17IXbhsIWIu2a4brZ-AFsguhr3vXFslWx9QoIR8t9YxtXic7IqfwY3co_bB5_kM2l9nH_GK9BLSObBXP4Gl-Tap5dM-PH2NCxtEnLIfZdGLvB-jLNzo-L2NrlDoQgfHdVguA/s400/DSCF7340.jpg" width="400" /></a> <br />
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Above: I was able to regrease the headset bearings without completely removing the front end. Look closely and you can see my 1947 Western Flyer "fixed gear trike" propping up the suspension fork while I carefully wipe and re grease the lower headset bearings. I hung the handlebars and stem from the frame while doing this. I also brushed some rust off the wedge nut (stem) and smeared a little grease on it before reassembling the <a type="amzn" category="sports & outdoors">threaded headset</a> /front end. <br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi0ExJ-rbAD0bdlF40d2bY9qKUvtxjMd8szDmIED1bFF1jsAsaasoOlzLybTtidoxz2WasosmV1-X04bMFBaMsbDe5jdSFYzFUDBb0hfVXBZ4cMIDKfl9AlCKdcnSTFiQIs43atYK7pXvc/s1600/DSCF7343.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi0ExJ-rbAD0bdlF40d2bY9qKUvtxjMd8szDmIED1bFF1jsAsaasoOlzLybTtidoxz2WasosmV1-X04bMFBaMsbDe5jdSFYzFUDBb0hfVXBZ4cMIDKfl9AlCKdcnSTFiQIs43atYK7pXvc/s400/DSCF7343.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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Above: The rear hub was also sloppy. Fortunately I did have the correct tool for removing the freewheel. After de greasing the axle, cones and bearings I started to reassemble the rear hub. It was at this point I noticed the rear axle was bent. This is a real kick in the a$$ because I really felt like I was making good progress. I removed the axle assembly from the parts bike and cleaned it up using White Lightning Clean streak. After matching them up I went ahead and greased the bearings and cups and reassembled the rear hub. It fit perfectly (even the spacers matched) and it is spinning real smoothly. I also cleaned and lubed the <a type="amzn" category="sports & outdoors">7 speed freewheel</a> and cleaned up the pie plate.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjuZ6ObESVYRiJNS95je4RSlKhN5ozzMJ7NimgYdylc09HbEKfjkAnZt6Q9bmUsPTNxPSoAWe9i5OWTYeyGcGN90B324lBAgQNZa1xkf18_mO545A3MTzW5HZNFUwAOVziUourxYDuz5-o/s1600/DSCF7352.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjuZ6ObESVYRiJNS95je4RSlKhN5ozzMJ7NimgYdylc09HbEKfjkAnZt6Q9bmUsPTNxPSoAWe9i5OWTYeyGcGN90B324lBAgQNZa1xkf18_mO545A3MTzW5HZNFUwAOVziUourxYDuz5-o/s400/DSCF7352.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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Above: I sprayed some WD-40 on the rusty <a type="amzn" category="sports & outdoors">rear derailleur</a> springs and hinge points and wiped it off. Then I removed some slack from the cable and it is now shifting fine. I will spray some <a type="amzn" category="tools & hardware">Tri-Flo</a> on the rear D and sprocket group before I test ride it. I also sprayed some WD-40 on the rusty chain (in sections) and wiped it clean. I will put some chain lube on the chain before I ride it. I might mention, contrary what many people think.. WD40 is not a lubricant. But it is great at breaking down rust and loosening up rusty components.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiK66xo1414e8RQe2Kf4heYRsFonJPbxMuf0Jx1QAm__w_uWcpG7UiC6P3yBIMyr9uAhjCdG7alTAL8-J-ErWYNcqsH7nTw_z-Rlnsagz4mLw6DDTW1FRnOKZWNh9sa4RnSeFuX28kuJuU/s1600/DSCF7359.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiK66xo1414e8RQe2Kf4heYRsFonJPbxMuf0Jx1QAm__w_uWcpG7UiC6P3yBIMyr9uAhjCdG7alTAL8-J-ErWYNcqsH7nTw_z-Rlnsagz4mLw6DDTW1FRnOKZWNh9sa4RnSeFuX28kuJuU/s400/DSCF7359.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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Above: The <a type="amzn" category="sports & outdoors">Falcon front derailleur</a> was froze up and the cable was badly frayed at the anchor point. I checked the Twist Grip Shifter and shift cable on the parts bike and they looked surprisingly good. So I carefully removed those and swapped them out with the originals on the Rhino. I found this <a type="amzn" category="sports & outdoors">Shimano front derailleur</a> in my collection of salvaged front derailleurs. It seems to be straining to shift onto the largest chain ring. If this does not improve after lubrication and adjustment I will install a different front derailleur.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhntH9-ONc05TSuzoZFU9Y_twH534sH7OcEDVDmzfh1OL65E_nv43Y_CLuYKrh_cIiqWdoJMjoEe3bMHdkpX9SFrGKZVHT9hb34YNpqIZzCfVRT8aYuN0FTNP8vuYPU5oAWb3-x_r-QoKw/s1600/DSCF7342.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhntH9-ONc05TSuzoZFU9Y_twH534sH7OcEDVDmzfh1OL65E_nv43Y_CLuYKrh_cIiqWdoJMjoEe3bMHdkpX9SFrGKZVHT9hb34YNpqIZzCfVRT8aYuN0FTNP8vuYPU5oAWb3-x_r-QoKw/s400/DSCF7342.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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Above: Because the chain guide on the Falcon front derailleur was not removable I had to break down or open the chain to remove it. The little <a type="amzn" category="sports & outdoors">Park CT 5 Chain Tool</a> is still working like a champ! Here I am finishing pressing the pin back into the chain. I am always careful to not remove the pin completely, this saves me a lot of aggravation. When using the tool to open the chain I always press the pin out towards me. This makes it much easier to press the pin back into place.<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgkmE1PdXZP-4Q0aBp2PWGWkeISNEFKXSR8qm0g3E_V-nI3tM7Bpx_kot7LFp_jSbRZdwIeGnWIX5cZmnM37T0VDk0AIr4JrDJ52g_cNqLrluPt4YRkzt8XJlEFS6Tqn2aFvDQS8itW8JY/s1600/DSCF7341.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgkmE1PdXZP-4Q0aBp2PWGWkeISNEFKXSR8qm0g3E_V-nI3tM7Bpx_kot7LFp_jSbRZdwIeGnWIX5cZmnM37T0VDk0AIr4JrDJ52g_cNqLrluPt4YRkzt8XJlEFS6Tqn2aFvDQS8itW8JY/s400/DSCF7341.jpg" width="400" /></a><br />
Above: QUICK TIP... I use a <a type="amzn" category="sports & outdoors">Velcro strap</a> to hold the derailleur in position to give me slack while using the chain tool.
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg73BAE4KLVa4K6-7NQ0kUTUDGgliNgtB21KnnFL3SBoxUiUVboXPrBCwWaVvI0z8INS7_qGYlz2j4pCf63pp1qTRVifGkTNVf483-qx-zc1ALVlOmdc-5aoG1SgXCkZUZY4XIF4i9YjxI/s1600/DSCF7347.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg73BAE4KLVa4K6-7NQ0kUTUDGgliNgtB21KnnFL3SBoxUiUVboXPrBCwWaVvI0z8INS7_qGYlz2j4pCf63pp1qTRVifGkTNVf483-qx-zc1ALVlOmdc-5aoG1SgXCkZUZY4XIF4i9YjxI/s400/DSCF7347.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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Above: Here I have removed the three piece crank and bottom bracket assembly. Earlier in the day I noticed the dust cap on the left side crank arm was missing and the nut looked real rusty. So I sprayed it "in advance" with a little <a type="amzn" category="tools & hardware">WD 40</a>. It worked great as the nut came off easily using a <a type="amzn" category="tools & hardware">6 point 14 mm socket</a>. I have mentioned this before so I will again.. When removing the retainer nut or bolt for the crank or crank arm use a socket that matches the nut or bolt head. It it is six sided make sure your socket is as well. These nuts and bolt heads are shallow and are not always the best quality of hardened steel. This will greatly lessen your chances of rounding off the nut or bolt head.
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh_SwrDxi4nL7p-ShAMSaRqv-wbsADZEZTI2_k105SQJ7qUtKxwmMstQCKmGOXIFn829kD-DawOn8B-W2v-vV7yf3tx-oybOK2b-vnE6lFGrkaQ_uNFnvEEXbfjjGxONjONUadXz_uylXM/s1600/DSCF7345.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh_SwrDxi4nL7p-ShAMSaRqv-wbsADZEZTI2_k105SQJ7qUtKxwmMstQCKmGOXIFn829kD-DawOn8B-W2v-vV7yf3tx-oybOK2b-vnE6lFGrkaQ_uNFnvEEXbfjjGxONjONUadXz_uylXM/s400/DSCF7345.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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Above: Here I am ready to spray the <a type="amzn" category="sports & outdoors">bottom bracket spline</a> and bearings as well as the left side cup. This is a rush job (that don`t pay $hit) so there is no time for the Ultrasonic parts cleaner. As usual I have lined the pot with dirty paper towels and placed the strainer in the pot. This is a very inexpensive and effective way to clean parts.
Just don`t use Mom's strainer and pot! As always I will be spraying them with White Lightning Clean Streak.
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Above: Here the bottom bracket is reassembled. I want to repaint the left side crank arm with <a type="amzn" category="tools & hardware">Rust Oleum flat black</a> before reassembly. Which I am going to do right after I finish here. The easy adjust seat post collar clamp is also from my collection of salvaged parts. This work was done yesterday Saturday, it is now Sunday. If I paint now I can finish the bike and this post tomorrow. See you tomorrow! Sorry the mixtie project was delayed for this and other repair work. I will hopefully get that going again Tuesday or Wednesday.
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Above: It is now Sunday evening. I forgot how fast flat black paint dries. The bike is finished! I took it for a short ride (3 miles) and it performed really well "for what it is". I have been spoiled riding my <a type="amzn" category="sports & outdoors">DiamondBack Overdrive 29er</a>. This bike felt like a lot more work to get where I was going.
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiBkOwZ5OKZA772-UgVAe6jVLnFlRDheIJmetAHvVW6E4Vav6EWd9y2q4Buc5tB7F57AjMT5SE5BecFfivpOEWa1sVTs3FQsdfX9uLnyC_UtTvirLFsdYxXoqB8sNJFeAQjthTceJIXVOs/s1600/DSCF7360.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiBkOwZ5OKZA772-UgVAe6jVLnFlRDheIJmetAHvVW6E4Vav6EWd9y2q4Buc5tB7F57AjMT5SE5BecFfivpOEWa1sVTs3FQsdfX9uLnyC_UtTvirLFsdYxXoqB8sNJFeAQjthTceJIXVOs/s400/DSCF7360.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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Above: Looking pretty sweet considering that "so far" I have only used salvaged and reconditioned components from the parts bike and my own stock. I say "so far" because I will probably be installing a new <a type="amzn" category="sports & outdoors">multi speed chain</a> tomorrow. Other than that, I only have some cosmetic detail work (cleaning and rust removal) to do.
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Above: I was amazed riding the bike by how smooth the bike felt. I think being a department store bike I expected it to feel more clunky. Also it did not jump gears at all. And the chain never slipped on the sprocket group in any gear. Also I was pleasantly surprised by how well the brakes worked. For liability reasons I made sure that the reflectors were remounted correctly. I have no idea if this fellow is going to be riding in the dark.
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Above: I have not yet had a chance to take the L.L. Bean bike out for a real good ride. Maybe I will do that tomorrow morning :) That is about all I have for now. Until next time Please RIDE SAFELY and Remember to Always..RESCUE, RESTORE & RECYCLE
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Cheers, Hugh
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A Special THANK YOU to those of you have been checking out Hugh's Online Bike Shop. You probably noticed that I am now adding word links to components, tools and supplies ect. ect. that I mention in my blog posts. Like the Store these links are powered by amazon.com . I am doing this to make it more convenient to purchase things that interest you on the blog. Also if you are new to bicycle work, and you are not sure what I am talking about? You can click on the word link just to see some examples of what I am referring to. I look at this as a positive change and I hope you do too.<br />
Thanks, Hugh Unknownnoreply@blogger.com10tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4155039544820521548.post-71002477809509761012013-04-28T22:51:00.000-04:002013-05-06T20:06:26.707-04:00Fenderbot and Sanding a lotHello and Welcome,<br />
Spring is here at last :) I have been busy cleaning up the front and back lawns and trying to get the shop/garage organized. The weather has been pretty nice as of late. And I have managed to take a few short bike rides. I wanted to do a post about installing the <a type="amzn" category="sports & outdoors">PDW Fenderbot reflector taillight</a> . Somehow I never got around to it, my sincere apologies for that. And I would also like to talk about the performance (or lack there of) of the Fenderbot light.<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhF7FN2xXkUQOUnsUhBBPaDhG-LkNmGxc4SIT-pegl8CWlqVBhtoUL4ddak3H6whQl_6eOk85UhThXLgJtZlND3r6EKXPliqsRBBhX7jYeJmV7y16tWGStUI_11VbccSAmqNWldX0hHb_8/s1600/DSCF7193.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhF7FN2xXkUQOUnsUhBBPaDhG-LkNmGxc4SIT-pegl8CWlqVBhtoUL4ddak3H6whQl_6eOk85UhThXLgJtZlND3r6EKXPliqsRBBhX7jYeJmV7y16tWGStUI_11VbccSAmqNWldX0hHb_8/s400/DSCF7193.jpg" width="400" /></a> <br />
Above: Let me start by saying I installed this Fenderbot unit for looks. The idea was to build a bike with the classic <a type="amzn" category="sports & outdoors">touring bike</a> look. The Fenderbot was the only new fender mount taillight I could find. It is Not Very Bright and I would not recommend this as your only rear light. When I ride this bike (day or night) I will have a flashing Ze'Fal taillight mounted on one of the seat stays or clipped onto the tool bag. <br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi7RoPGOcfx0Sqf1P5PMDtrMSlBOlWaXPWfiA8I9gdgdj9gBNzdZIpbBN3uFjpydNtH-c4MzwtxLkwDnICxp9J5-BotEp10kqmn94NV8khYlAuAHhTjHvHeN6R0Ek1cJc7MoEAcQvrsh2A/s1600/DSCF7192.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi7RoPGOcfx0Sqf1P5PMDtrMSlBOlWaXPWfiA8I9gdgdj9gBNzdZIpbBN3uFjpydNtH-c4MzwtxLkwDnICxp9J5-BotEp10kqmn94NV8khYlAuAHhTjHvHeN6R0Ek1cJc7MoEAcQvrsh2A/s400/DSCF7192.jpg" width="400" /></a> <br />
Above: Save the card the Fenderbot comes mounted on and use it for a template to make you marks for drilling the mount holes in your mudguard or fender. You can also use the template for proper <a type="amzn" category="tools & hardware">drill bit</a> selection if need be.
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg7LLBkvwnD5Ugyxudz6qZm3_WmHslOdP24tKmB5SF5e4pwJHI0bsSqGg_26LL-7k0GzUIm0QbOxznYStt2t6-dCqtZK0cSwiOhQfglbZWtMtiqBZfUiBItDDszhiz1ECysR_ecBjVAVOg/s1600/DSCF7194.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg7LLBkvwnD5Ugyxudz6qZm3_WmHslOdP24tKmB5SF5e4pwJHI0bsSqGg_26LL-7k0GzUIm0QbOxznYStt2t6-dCqtZK0cSwiOhQfglbZWtMtiqBZfUiBItDDszhiz1ECysR_ecBjVAVOg/s400/DSCF7194.jpg" width="400" /></a>
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Above: Here I have made my marks with a Sharpie for my mount holes. You will need to make sure your holes are high enough so the taillight will clear any strut mounting hardware. After taking a measurement I made sure to cut my template so that the holes would be high enough. This way I could rest the template on the wrap around strut mount when making my marks.<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjB-UgPscJRMv9c0qrvNAOGD0KhQjjoSK2eUd5kwVR9VHhkoKENoD3mu1x_RBo7cHsIbrHnqv_EPWHB73Q2r4U4EXS-J3rleFAEtK_yb2IPcZEuLgKfESNacR5st288Ny1vNGT3FnWDje0/s1600/DSCF7198.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjB-UgPscJRMv9c0qrvNAOGD0KhQjjoSK2eUd5kwVR9VHhkoKENoD3mu1x_RBo7cHsIbrHnqv_EPWHB73Q2r4U4EXS-J3rleFAEtK_yb2IPcZEuLgKfESNacR5st288Ny1vNGT3FnWDje0/s400/DSCF7198.jpg" width="400" /></a> <br />
Above: To avoid the bit skirting around damaging the beautiful <a type="amzn" category="sports & outdoors">Velo Orange hammered fender</a> while I am am trying to drill the holes I use a small <a type="amzn" category="tools & hardware">scratch awl</a> to make an indent in the center of my marks. These indentations will make it much easier to keep the bit "on target" while I am drilling. <br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgjbyeZV277S9mz6eQ0w_gjmUBdhuN7x9Xc5TM7uLd4wEeK4XYn-PnI6GllDWo7Csb6dQUQk-rTZUVAg8CslGUsRSBqV-JMx6zf-TrxIVA_f1mdxSmKyPFKq1uFFm1BsVCLvpD1-0pLKgg/s1600/DSCF7196.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgjbyeZV277S9mz6eQ0w_gjmUBdhuN7x9Xc5TM7uLd4wEeK4XYn-PnI6GllDWo7Csb6dQUQk-rTZUVAg8CslGUsRSBqV-JMx6zf-TrxIVA_f1mdxSmKyPFKq1uFFm1BsVCLvpD1-0pLKgg/s400/DSCF7196.jpg" width="400" /></a> <br />
Above: Here I am using the template to check my drill bit size. <br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhwwmd3i6SjW6sCYJPOrG6zPWZpFgDtqq90rP_Bwi_JyIXHNNTj-9_0d5Xix5mgJmUkASRP5xngKnwhB8dkxiPUL7OqKt4Y9C8nYnRgl1BUjDn_ZtuDuBw1AQUXQYAykhRA6DG6wx4ANdo/s1600/DSCF7201.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhwwmd3i6SjW6sCYJPOrG6zPWZpFgDtqq90rP_Bwi_JyIXHNNTj-9_0d5Xix5mgJmUkASRP5xngKnwhB8dkxiPUL7OqKt4Y9C8nYnRgl1BUjDn_ZtuDuBw1AQUXQYAykhRA6DG6wx4ANdo/s400/DSCF7201.jpg" width="400" /></a> <br />
Above: Fearing the bit might hang up or bind I chose to drill a smaller hole first, then re drill with the finish size. Quite a while back I was re drilling the holes in a <a type="amzn" category="sports & outdoors">rear bicycle rack</a> mount to fit a larger old seat post clamp bolt. I was using a high speed <a type="amzn" category="tools & hardware">DeWalt 8 amp drill</a> and it bound up. I did not have the piece secured, and when it spun the piece it felt like it damn near took one of my fingers off. Fortunately it just hurt like hell, no real damage done. <br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhamGMB2M7coorCpSwwFG4QSQLveDgew1KXu7D08J99me5HrFXjq9pGWozR6Iy9lvc4K25hLp6WFH1CuWSd8qUEKu7bH4N5iNQUQQTKncn9MGrLrBZ90l052zXEQqwsCxr1viknRa67uk4/s1600/DSCF7208.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhamGMB2M7coorCpSwwFG4QSQLveDgew1KXu7D08J99me5HrFXjq9pGWozR6Iy9lvc4K25hLp6WFH1CuWSd8qUEKu7bH4N5iNQUQQTKncn9MGrLrBZ90l052zXEQqwsCxr1viknRa67uk4/s640/DSCF7208.jpg" width="480" /></a> <br />
Above: This is what the Fenderbot looks like mounted from the inside of the fender. The bottom nut shown is the wrap around strut mount. <br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh_C21WamOkjTT4M04mTjwmuaCuYqnPTNF5O2MAtpcgqVUFDTt5DDWaenyt_luwKjTQKEve2ZIWlVUfqOVuFRYAsRPxiiuul7FFT6bP4Msp9jW4v_8K7dDB4WNFZ73XyyeL3V48ehW4Ajo/s1600/DSCF7204.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh_C21WamOkjTT4M04mTjwmuaCuYqnPTNF5O2MAtpcgqVUFDTt5DDWaenyt_luwKjTQKEve2ZIWlVUfqOVuFRYAsRPxiiuul7FFT6bP4Msp9jW4v_8K7dDB4WNFZ73XyyeL3V48ehW4Ajo/s400/DSCF7204.jpg" width="400" /></a> <br />
Above: The "not so bright" Fenderbot tail light mounted on my Velo Orange hammered rear fender. It's not really hammered, it is more of a hammer effect :) <br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgtxvWpvxxW2aceMpnXxCqDIry9dsFLwaUa4okgJyG5mOPQTWzLsH5rDV2oRIvSh_51ryxVVpe1djp-nU0ZDv21ZBCm2y4O_RkqSl5U034vwJGa31Z8WEXGFdkuwS_iWCYv-xy3mYk3TmI/s1600/DSCF7276.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgtxvWpvxxW2aceMpnXxCqDIry9dsFLwaUa4okgJyG5mOPQTWzLsH5rDV2oRIvSh_51ryxVVpe1djp-nU0ZDv21ZBCm2y4O_RkqSl5U034vwJGa31Z8WEXGFdkuwS_iWCYv-xy3mYk3TmI/s400/DSCF7276.jpg" width="400" /></a> <br />
Above: Here is the L.L. Bean Bike finished. After adding the white piping I realized I had subconsciously built something very much like (in looks anyway) to the Parliament. Eventually I removed the wrench graphic from the fork blade. You may have noticed for the "test ride" I have another taillight clipped onto the <a type="amzn" category="sports & outdoors">Minnehaha Barrel Bag</a> (tool bag).
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhS1p3K_i05gLVgiLSdOK5y2UPCwJI8k8otSbGINcS8P5nBhCuqYzaa8sOwoG9rBoCoAMANFJAbLY_yJj3CVlu34zQggoaln5rlMbP-dIHwi29urriVCyTuCGXz_UAdnNOkLtna_-U_tn4/s1600/DSCF7326.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhS1p3K_i05gLVgiLSdOK5y2UPCwJI8k8otSbGINcS8P5nBhCuqYzaa8sOwoG9rBoCoAMANFJAbLY_yJj3CVlu34zQggoaln5rlMbP-dIHwi29urriVCyTuCGXz_UAdnNOkLtna_-U_tn4/s400/DSCF7326.jpg" width="400" /></a> <br />
Above: The Zebrakenko is pretty much ready for primer, just a few tiny hard to reach spots to finish sanding. It has not really been warm and dry enough to paint yet anyway. But now the weather is much better so I will be priming it this week.<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj0OXTL9Mt2vx1HjyzoRzrJucHFWJmTNQMbiIla5Sw3GicRP6pwDwd6EOjUJy74H_86dQrWNAxGUx-YvmkwOlBgKVvMrLfaI4saBCJtCiOrYqObzbWTPDZCoMyPCyV7eAB0ZY6ciNH8Fs4/s1600/DSCF7321.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj0OXTL9Mt2vx1HjyzoRzrJucHFWJmTNQMbiIla5Sw3GicRP6pwDwd6EOjUJy74H_86dQrWNAxGUx-YvmkwOlBgKVvMrLfaI4saBCJtCiOrYqObzbWTPDZCoMyPCyV7eAB0ZY6ciNH8Fs4/s400/DSCF7321.jpg" width="400" /></a><br />
I am considering leaving the head and seat post lugs unpainted and polished. I will see how shiny I can get them before I decide. I am really not sure if I should polish the lug with something or just clear coat it. I am open to suggestions. I am thinking about building another classic commuter. Or possibly a <a type="amzn" category="sports & outdoors">fixed gear bike</a>, sort of a "Mixey Fixey"
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhNCLWtjvtaupMmwIttesMHJ6bqKotkwYKB2b1SM4if07PMoL88E2Z6W5ess_c8PbIOHSjyYKulauCo5P24DB-9Ds95MOEYnlWJEaWHTJkcqCB74GDlP5usgLdlWyBfdmO3ooJVlmk2oHQ/s1600/DSCF7324.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhNCLWtjvtaupMmwIttesMHJ6bqKotkwYKB2b1SM4if07PMoL88E2Z6W5ess_c8PbIOHSjyYKulauCo5P24DB-9Ds95MOEYnlWJEaWHTJkcqCB74GDlP5usgLdlWyBfdmO3ooJVlmk2oHQ/s400/DSCF7324.jpg" width="400" /></a>
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The <a type="amzn" category="sports & outdoors">mixti frame</a> is by far the most difficult frame I have ever sanded. Nooks and Crannies are fine if your talking about English Muffins. On bicycle frames they are just a pain in the @$$. I will not be sanding another mixtie frame any time soon. I may even look into paint strippers. Although I really do not like using any more chemicals than I absolutely have to. <br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgD0-YyYKI3bSrnBK1byVKVuVURYWJ5bUaDGlb4bD0_noBy_BSERntpxYdyflw6KXavf-LuCl1bHFsUjN1KDXHNoxdSruHlf-q485F7RtdhXCRfCJ9AM8xXurdXtdFM1eE1e4QJWntwgBc/s1600/DSCF7317.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgD0-YyYKI3bSrnBK1byVKVuVURYWJ5bUaDGlb4bD0_noBy_BSERntpxYdyflw6KXavf-LuCl1bHFsUjN1KDXHNoxdSruHlf-q485F7RtdhXCRfCJ9AM8xXurdXtdFM1eE1e4QJWntwgBc/s400/DSCF7317.jpg" width="400" /></a> <br />
This is what I hope was the last snow of the season. It did not stick, and within hours was just an unpleasant memory. I did some fast repairs on a new friends Department Store rigid mountain bike. I did not bother with pics although maybe I should have. It was cosmetically "pretty mint". Mechanically "not so good". It did have the old thumb shifters which I consider a plus. Department store twist type grip shifters are always problematic crap anyway. <br />
That is pretty much all I have for now. So until next time, Please Ride Safely! And remember to always..RESCUE, RESTORE and RECYCLE <br />
Cheers, Hugh<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEinzsGrkiLvddTDpxj08GHOvcl1PmnL1KmiUonrV3muUJINjUWJPXupdl18NQNhOkbiZ8ObmUvgss4QkUhvCSfipkL_8j2WsmsiMZMHYBXxlesQ6gf-JN1Jl1m4BFqQhr1y2hO2B00rZc4/s1600/wings+2013.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="271" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEinzsGrkiLvddTDpxj08GHOvcl1PmnL1KmiUonrV3muUJINjUWJPXupdl18NQNhOkbiZ8ObmUvgss4QkUhvCSfipkL_8j2WsmsiMZMHYBXxlesQ6gf-JN1Jl1m4BFqQhr1y2hO2B00rZc4/s400/wings+2013.jpg" width="400" /></a> <br />
The Detroit RedWings have made the playoffs for the 22nd consecutive season! Well Done Boys! <br />
A Special THANK YOU to those of you have been checking out Hugh's Online Bike Shop. The link to Hugh's Online Bike Shop is located on this page in the right column near the top, just below the followers / members. You probably noticed that I am now adding word links to components, tools and supplies ect. ect. that I mention in my blog posts. Like the Store these links are powered by amazon.com . I am doing this to make it more convenient to purchase things that interest you on the blog. Also if you are new to bicycle work, and you are not sure what I am talking about? You can click on the word link just to see some examples of what I am referring to. I look at this as a positive change and I hope you do too. <br />
Thanks, Hugh Unknownnoreply@blogger.com12tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4155039544820521548.post-4930432730528276212013-04-04T00:14:00.000-04:002013-04-05T13:03:36.978-04:00Zebrakenko Mixte Restoration Part 1Hello and Welcome <br />
My current project a Zebrakenko Golden Sports Mixte. The original wheel set (or the wheel set it showed up with) is gone, used on another project. I doubt they were original to the bike anyway. They seemed to lack the rust and dirt that covered the rest of the bike. <br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj87Lop3RXG_TdyodTeq2MkEgdV7GvzZKMKSnuS-w7CXynwwCS4EF948BLu_yYZ9uVmJZQKo4h-_jVd48TT3-K4nO5XFwD49DaDRnSwCQgO6iPDy9IgBl69HDqE7_0JFE2spLMXN3h1mmE/s1600/DSCF2808.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj87Lop3RXG_TdyodTeq2MkEgdV7GvzZKMKSnuS-w7CXynwwCS4EF948BLu_yYZ9uVmJZQKo4h-_jVd48TT3-K4nO5XFwD49DaDRnSwCQgO6iPDy9IgBl69HDqE7_0JFE2spLMXN3h1mmE/s400/DSCF2808.jpg" width="400" /></a>
This is an interesting <a type="amzn" category="sports & outdoors">road bike</a> with one of the better badges I have seen in a while. Unfortunately it has spent some time out in the elements. In fact Angie wanted me to have this bike rather than see it damaged any further. Very admirable in my opinion.</div>
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgJq8-jNyUqutJySeBOBJzerf45e3vbdPPlc_IYzZFqEiS4toJT77sbCv3WInCPAlSykqu5VqxVNL1wR-2Dg13oFGkFSYVP7m4OAQhfkuLhvB8P1zvwgszzJj9m05vUPFyfEbDDhyphenhyphenMR4W8/s1600/DSCF2807.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgJq8-jNyUqutJySeBOBJzerf45e3vbdPPlc_IYzZFqEiS4toJT77sbCv3WInCPAlSykqu5VqxVNL1wR-2Dg13oFGkFSYVP7m4OAQhfkuLhvB8P1zvwgszzJj9m05vUPFyfEbDDhyphenhyphenMR4W8/s400/DSCF2807.jpg" width="400" /></a><br />
Above: And there it is the 3 D "Lions Head" head-badge. I think my friend and fellow Bike Blogger Ryan from Ryan's Rebuilds described it best as "looking like a door knocker". I think he nailed it! ltms
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhi7aeIOKZyM6Bleg3QVCjFVOU2-g-MuA07-7XduopyY_RKbjWUHwya9luHW6m3d1rYatTLy_gOYuV-qqJbnmcdNMjYbpsGrU_F1LDVpr3bREUIX2VRqxkPg4K-NwVINKOmnwtax-3whRE/s1600/DSCF2811.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhi7aeIOKZyM6Bleg3QVCjFVOU2-g-MuA07-7XduopyY_RKbjWUHwya9luHW6m3d1rYatTLy_gOYuV-qqJbnmcdNMjYbpsGrU_F1LDVpr3bREUIX2VRqxkPg4K-NwVINKOmnwtax-3whRE/s400/DSCF2811.jpg" width="400" /></a><br />
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Above: Step one, I ran it through the gears and checked the crank and brakes as well. The <a type="amzn" category="sports & outdoors">derailleurs</a> are working as well as can be expected. Same goes for the brakes, working pretty well considering the cables are semi froze up and the shoes are rock hard. There is a little grind in the crank, hopefully it is just dry and a little too tight. Good news is the crank spins straight. Headset is also stiff with a little grind, again probably just dry. I wont know for sure until I take the crank and headset apart.<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjUHvpd5QRZW9l_Nnxwy6Kt_vp0AGIBAn1H4_UwFY4EwjY0HruWlUC6IctwdVA4De0V505v9WNByxIa88t2KjVFE8ZvJP5q0hRT_fMYY8whW7io2HhQzth3zw2pXZMi9FdNtPe1XNhmgh4/s1600/DSCF7281.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjUHvpd5QRZW9l_Nnxwy6Kt_vp0AGIBAn1H4_UwFY4EwjY0HruWlUC6IctwdVA4De0V505v9WNByxIa88t2KjVFE8ZvJP5q0hRT_fMYY8whW7io2HhQzth3zw2pXZMi9FdNtPe1XNhmgh4/s400/DSCF7281.jpg" width="400" /></a> <br />
Above: The crank smoothed right out as soon as I loosened it up, even though the grease is pretty much shot. The same goes for the <a type="amzn" category="sports & outdoors">threaded headset</a>. The cups and bearings look fine. It just sat so long the hardened and dried up grease has stiffened everything up a bit. After a real good cleaning and re greasing I am positive every thing will be really smooth. I may be replacing the <a type="amzn" category="sports & outdoors">road crank set</a> if it does not clean up really well. It looks cheap to me. And if it does not improve 100% after refurbishing, then it is gone. <br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg9xG7YrIzbEimofkZDIRRagNF9topLDS4aKmmMHJ6h7t_YUT7UUfCs5umHi0IDhkA7rg6LBvhsMlyiZ9ej5bW9M2T2Kxtci4Us2OqNzFTtpcN762LwryWwgf-2RfY8EwxJN8YpM-YNga8/s1600/DSCF7282.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg9xG7YrIzbEimofkZDIRRagNF9topLDS4aKmmMHJ6h7t_YUT7UUfCs5umHi0IDhkA7rg6LBvhsMlyiZ9ej5bW9M2T2Kxtci4Us2OqNzFTtpcN762LwryWwgf-2RfY8EwxJN8YpM-YNga8/s400/DSCF7282.jpg" width="400" /></a>
Above: Not everything here will be refurbished. But I will keep it all somewhat organized until I can figure out what will be refurbished and what is going to the metal recycling guy and what might be saved. Quick Tip: Before you toss a broken or damaged component, remove any small parts like <a type="amzn" category="sports & outdoors">barrel adjusters</a> or limit screws, springs, cable anchors etc. etc. You will be glad you did. I am constantly making good use of little bits I have saved over the years.<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEipBZ-9lN7Finm_Ok37-sbM1Dr8FMtLwwsxl7QdomIx9X6MH_cEpXnGTuwJA1iOaTrhNOuA2X_qKyWjtkn6roCJDkagw2pQM2xOiLGB3o5gfbtJmzziKJIz5xDFHJmt4uKs1W83vfNmqVc/s1600/DSCF7299.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEipBZ-9lN7Finm_Ok37-sbM1Dr8FMtLwwsxl7QdomIx9X6MH_cEpXnGTuwJA1iOaTrhNOuA2X_qKyWjtkn6roCJDkagw2pQM2xOiLGB3o5gfbtJmzziKJIz5xDFHJmt4uKs1W83vfNmqVc/s400/DSCF7299.jpg" width="400" /></a><br />
Above: I have decided to repaint the <a type="amzn" category="sports & outdoors">mixti frame</a> and fork. For this reason I have removed the head badge and the frame mounted barrel adjuster for the rear brake. The barrel adjuster mounted approximately mid top tube(s)is unique to the Mixte style frame. (as far as I know) <br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhvC91cQy-VHAdxghjRbJPxf4kFhOq9KIhYd6pGnCoMzugvdGKJ86PekeR7PSkdNdzkJhk27qMCGvGqbp41NRNBd00_FLYz9xTegJCxNcJZuIvkAW55-YOmkqkyem4ObA8tplO_gbOncFE/s1600/DSCF7296.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhvC91cQy-VHAdxghjRbJPxf4kFhOq9KIhYd6pGnCoMzugvdGKJ86PekeR7PSkdNdzkJhk27qMCGvGqbp41NRNBd00_FLYz9xTegJCxNcJZuIvkAW55-YOmkqkyem4ObA8tplO_gbOncFE/s400/DSCF7296.jpg" width="400" /></a><br />
Above: To remove the head badge I first removed the upper and lower head-tube bearing cups. Then using a <a type="amzn" category="tools & hardware"> half round metal file</a>, I filed down the rivets from inside the head tube. Next I use an old set of <a type="amzn" category="tools & hardware">feeler gauges</a> to make a small gap between the head-badge and the head-tube. Now I can slip my mini pry bar behind the badge next to the rivet and gently pop the badge off. When I say mini pry bar, I mean mini. The pry bar including handle is probably less than 3 inches long. It came with a free set of promotional screwdrivers. If I can find one, I will post where it is available. It is an awesome little tool.<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjwFWtZJTnPkq5mo7cIzbptPVQsxU2SvhQqt11okZ_fQ2I5nGxyhn-5gBEA_oeviNZfBSirhZu-_7EYvNTf9n2Qf1B0vvjfkjUDRZi-aUjeMMh_eYofPwDpC72df1NhCgaM_jeIGQnxzBA/s1600/DSCF7293.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjwFWtZJTnPkq5mo7cIzbptPVQsxU2SvhQqt11okZ_fQ2I5nGxyhn-5gBEA_oeviNZfBSirhZu-_7EYvNTf9n2Qf1B0vvjfkjUDRZi-aUjeMMh_eYofPwDpC72df1NhCgaM_jeIGQnxzBA/s400/DSCF7293.jpg" width="400" /></a><br />
Above: I started to wet sand the frame this afternoon. Unfortunately I only had 1/3 sheet of 180 grit <a type="amzn" category="automotive">wet/dry sanding paper</a>. So I did not get very far. Tomorrow morning I am off to Peter's True Value on M59 just west of town to get some more. I will try to get a pic of the mini pry bar and add it to this post tomorrow. Actually latter today (it is getting late) Until next time please Ride Safely and remember to Always...RESCUE, RESTORE & RECYCLE<br /> Cheers, Hugh<br />
P.S. I will proof read this again tomorrow, hopefully it is not totally incoherent :) Unknownnoreply@blogger.com12tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4155039544820521548.post-86763831329255981082013-03-25T22:29:00.001-04:002013-05-01T21:08:02.938-04:00Kalkhoff Folding Bike FinishedHello and Welcome, As I am typing this the Kalkhoff <a category="sports & outdoors" href="http://www.blogger.com/blogger.g?blogID=4155039544820521548" type="amzn">Folding bike</a> is 98% finished. By the time I publish this it will be complete. We finally had another warm front come through. So I got busy in the shop/garage cleaning up the remainder of the reusable parts. <br />
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Above: Cutting off the damaged part of the <a category="sports & outdoors" href="http://www.blogger.com/blogger.g?blogID=4155039544820521548" type="amzn">chain guard</a> went pretty well. Now it reminds me of the chain guards that were popular when I was but a wee lad. Reusing the original guard spared me the hassle of trying to retro fit a universal guard. Not to mention it kept the cost down. For cutting the plastic I used a <a category="tools & hardware" href="http://www.blogger.com/blogger.g?blogID=4155039544820521548" type="amzn">hand held electric jig saw</a>. For blade selection I chose a <a category="tools & hardware" href="http://www.blogger.com/blogger.g?blogID=4155039544820521548" type="amzn">metal cutting jig saw blade</a> with small teeth, similar to a hack saw blade. This is the same blade I used when cutting plexiglass when I made new fixed rear side windows for the Ford Ranger. <br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhi2lp3-5TfeqzxXZ8_rg9_r3Ktt2hc-q4GGPAGuDhGyeFzHjZfk8rlzy5IpSp-FzO3ZkeLnOhe-YgWsMn0YcpzKnu_E6RDVX99CuK2JRnYlBmRIT5tPes_vhAsgaxJKQG7mlburlbEVp4/s1600/DSCF7163.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhi2lp3-5TfeqzxXZ8_rg9_r3Ktt2hc-q4GGPAGuDhGyeFzHjZfk8rlzy5IpSp-FzO3ZkeLnOhe-YgWsMn0YcpzKnu_E6RDVX99CuK2JRnYlBmRIT5tPes_vhAsgaxJKQG7mlburlbEVp4/s400/DSCF7163.jpg" width="400" /></a>
Above:I cleaned up the original German made <a category="sports & outdoors" href="http://www.blogger.com/blogger.g?blogID=4155039544820521548" type="amzn">pedals</a> using a <a category="tools & hardware" href="http://www.blogger.com/blogger.g?blogID=4155039544820521548" type="amzn">fine brass wheel brush</a> in combination with a fine <a category="tools & hardware" href="http://www.blogger.com/blogger.g?blogID=4155039544820521548" type="amzn">brass detail brush</a>. Then I polished the metal parts with <a category="automotive" href="http://www.blogger.com/blogger.g?blogID=4155039544820521548" type="amzn">Turtle Wax Chrome Polish and Rust Remover</a>. For cleaning up the blocks I used a fingernail scrub brush. This type brush is perfect for cleaning up rubber pedal blocks.<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjOSleRlx7DK0E6EWOvaW8n8nm7Gf98GEB-Dp_O8TbDyuXARTNaf4UPbS7tux4WG9YsvspajEaYPM3kvhyphenhyphenC0hXhu3FUJbz6tEZPpMBVbbJ2Ie5MlijFFtTZeffyM59Ndu-y1sZzQQSV_gU/s1600/DSCF7210.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjOSleRlx7DK0E6EWOvaW8n8nm7Gf98GEB-Dp_O8TbDyuXARTNaf4UPbS7tux4WG9YsvspajEaYPM3kvhyphenhyphenC0hXhu3FUJbz6tEZPpMBVbbJ2Ie5MlijFFtTZeffyM59Ndu-y1sZzQQSV_gU/s400/DSCF7210.jpg" width="400" /></a>
Above: I`m not sure if everyone knows what type of brush I meant. So here is a picture. This little brush works like it was designed for scrubbing dirty old pedal blocks. And I just want to make sure you get the right one :) <br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjPlry7LLbzwAZnna2qaRJYfq3s0KK89qatqfMtNPbopxXlDTKBvPYsCWpCDaCsT2eykT1S9DgiaOkNIgNDZbwcWHRUgR6BijGalybX03Gi3c54ITqXUT4R3ZW65ym6QsGhLsAaW-cjdG0/s1600/DSCF7166.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjPlry7LLbzwAZnna2qaRJYfq3s0KK89qatqfMtNPbopxXlDTKBvPYsCWpCDaCsT2eykT1S9DgiaOkNIgNDZbwcWHRUgR6BijGalybX03Gi3c54ITqXUT4R3ZW65ym6QsGhLsAaW-cjdG0/s400/DSCF7166.jpg" width="400" /></a>
Above: This is the removable chain guard mounting bracket typically used on wrap around type chain guards. I cleaned this up quickly using a fine brass wheel brush on the high speed <a category="tools & hardware" href="http://www.blogger.com/blogger.g?blogID=4155039544820521548" type="amzn">DeWalt keyless chuck drill</a>. While wearing my <a category="tools & hardware" href="http://www.blogger.com/blogger.g?blogID=4155039544820521548" type="amzn">Safety Glasses</a> of course. <br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgKgMyNlSKaeYQD4X91UrFYdJH9cHqlBroy79czmZ9xwUDX-6DzDMjAzug16gMoVhXLlarNjf7vpqSXK3-8hvs3Q5iNJk_FN0hP2-cZ6Xja9UYnBb7d87huvRAa_mE3t8xStoWLmgbqu24/s1600/DSCF7167.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgKgMyNlSKaeYQD4X91UrFYdJH9cHqlBroy79czmZ9xwUDX-6DzDMjAzug16gMoVhXLlarNjf7vpqSXK3-8hvs3Q5iNJk_FN0hP2-cZ6Xja9UYnBb7d87huvRAa_mE3t8xStoWLmgbqu24/s400/DSCF7167.jpg" width="400" /></a>
Above: The original kickstand, Made in Italy. Also cleaned up using the fine brass wheel brush on the DeWalt high speed drill. For polish I used <a category="automotive" href="http://www.blogger.com/blogger.g?blogID=4155039544820521548" type="amzn">Mother's Mag and Aluminum Polish</a>. <br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjHty46Od2oaLJ9iLsFQzXo0r8BsyRdTqKLa70Fr4MHsZxPTfftz0tqgNaHlE4f2eal4K9DaURYmn9eHcgEf4ziKIjMk0sZVWPXHoGoO4YILCxRYWut0kSoMJ5Q4pNXhppHZFVbwjewpnw/s1600/DSCF7171.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjHty46Od2oaLJ9iLsFQzXo0r8BsyRdTqKLa70Fr4MHsZxPTfftz0tqgNaHlE4f2eal4K9DaURYmn9eHcgEf4ziKIjMk0sZVWPXHoGoO4YILCxRYWut0kSoMJ5Q4pNXhppHZFVbwjewpnw/s400/DSCF7171.jpg" width="400" /></a>
Above: For cleaning up the <a category="sports & outdoors" href="http://www.blogger.com/blogger.g?blogID=4155039544820521548" type="amzn">touring brake levers</a> I also used Mother's Mag and Aluminum Polish. I could have made these look better it I had wire brushed them. But the aluminum tends to bleed out more after it is brushed. Probably not a good thing for brake levers to do. So I chose the lesser of the two evils. <br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgiTJS3KrEJjE59UJdGaZQjLArvVooxrBd1YXddIgxJiGnnAUOm7mYhVX2ANmBJCgPlDFO2iMOYlr4XKCOkqD9PIbG-VMZ_JtU6LYJe2Qc9JbHkFQgYdupCLmOMllOEcYI_n-y5ZMX2Ei0/s1600/DSCF7175.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgiTJS3KrEJjE59UJdGaZQjLArvVooxrBd1YXddIgxJiGnnAUOm7mYhVX2ANmBJCgPlDFO2iMOYlr4XKCOkqD9PIbG-VMZ_JtU6LYJe2Qc9JbHkFQgYdupCLmOMllOEcYI_n-y5ZMX2Ei0/s400/DSCF7175.jpg" width="400" /></a>
Above: I had to cut off the original brake lever mounting bolts and nuts. So I took my $5.00 certificate and went to Peter's True Value on M59 on the far west side of our little town. I hit the bolt section just as "the bolt guy" was there taking inventory. He found the perfect replacements in about 30 seconds. While I was there I grabbed another jar of Mother's.<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhDlVtBzAxs_d9veDn-O8byaCLa2ef3csel2AafCHiDd6KdCsUBbidB4zJlPVoCNZta9gtZR43p3l2zd3Y8J2_pOPBJd0CZvLbq0rp46WMz43aPi5LtDVh3I76ho1si3NLXk19AA6L0nik/s1600/DSCF7164.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhDlVtBzAxs_d9veDn-O8byaCLa2ef3csel2AafCHiDd6KdCsUBbidB4zJlPVoCNZta9gtZR43p3l2zd3Y8J2_pOPBJd0CZvLbq0rp46WMz43aPi5LtDVh3I76ho1si3NLXk19AA6L0nik/s400/DSCF7164.jpg" width="400" /></a>
Above: I cleaned the <a category="sports & outdoors" href="http://www.blogger.com/blogger.g?blogID=4155039544820521548" type="amzn">grips</a> using the fingernail brush and hand soap. They look virtually unused. That's a real bonus! Usually at least one of the grips (if not both) are in rough shape. This will save me a few more bucks.<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh2IGeIqvqxGya55N0lhu22al2yfCzqH6vsKZjOcXXqRX_6Xs1AUF4Hw8v6c2FayDvOR2wsmwnMfc6SgSH48lFW_wWgCGpBC5oGQC3D-_5VkPf1k21I2gJOcS9f4GfFuYHfHR6aRu3QuIQ/s1600/DSCF7186.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh2IGeIqvqxGya55N0lhu22al2yfCzqH6vsKZjOcXXqRX_6Xs1AUF4Hw8v6c2FayDvOR2wsmwnMfc6SgSH48lFW_wWgCGpBC5oGQC3D-_5VkPf1k21I2gJOcS9f4GfFuYHfHR6aRu3QuIQ/s400/DSCF7186.jpg" width="400" /></a>
Above: This is basically the same <a category="sports & outdoors" href="http://www.blogger.com/blogger.g?blogID=4155039544820521548" type="amzn">Velo Tempo Z Saddle</a> I originally put on the Kalkhoff. But this saddle does not have another bike manufacturers logo on it. And it is not all "girly" looking either. They really are the same Velo saddle, both have the memory foam and the exact same size and shape. I refuse to install a huge farm tractor saddle on this cool little bike.<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjs_isD4kd30DB3KCkjD6hAO0cbUyiOEQ2zaYLTm6SqsBB9IUJ0TI7bHIpSqeQMsRi05rDsrqQ3MzLFVwDFTCDQlM296WKXAcutox0EBAN5JCdSjgJZup5fu45QsP9X1w73yt3pZwN5uRE/s1600/DSCF7158.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjs_isD4kd30DB3KCkjD6hAO0cbUyiOEQ2zaYLTm6SqsBB9IUJ0TI7bHIpSqeQMsRi05rDsrqQ3MzLFVwDFTCDQlM296WKXAcutox0EBAN5JCdSjgJZup5fu45QsP9X1w73yt3pZwN5uRE/s400/DSCF7158.jpg" width="400" /></a>
Above: Of course I have two fork mount <a category="sports & outdoors" href="http://www.blogger.com/blogger.g?blogID=4155039544820521548" type="amzn">generator lights</a> that are designed to work on the left fork leg or blade. And this bike has the generator mounting bracket on the right fork blade or leg. And yes I really did try to make it work. Time to get a look at what all of this stuff looks like on the bike. <br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhUnF8ASdSKVOtkCfsIpwosbujsGQLMiHkWgETIoQnQZMgXsHwj7OeCg0bcsSrBt4pmmrK6F6pBd7Pv8kXdVNpuI9oTFQK1MpUIPsEFtwY7tTluVbFlxitocE90xaeXxyvZVomy9scgwmw/s1600/DSCF7181.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhUnF8ASdSKVOtkCfsIpwosbujsGQLMiHkWgETIoQnQZMgXsHwj7OeCg0bcsSrBt4pmmrK6F6pBd7Pv8kXdVNpuI9oTFQK1MpUIPsEFtwY7tTluVbFlxitocE90xaeXxyvZVomy9scgwmw/s400/DSCF7181.jpg" width="400" /></a>
Above: The <a category="sports & outdoors" href="http://www.blogger.com/blogger.g?blogID=4155039544820521548" type="amzn">side pull caliper brakes</a> are looking good, all hooked up with new <a category="sports & outdoors" href="http://www.blogger.com/blogger.g?blogID=4155039544820521548" type="amzn">Jag Wire Basics cables</a> and housings and shoes. <br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi1X-D9HTHDZew9FSNhBBOCAONQcPutLozGRLNBrdaKInykajclenbhGLAyqSst1gGAh6onSOvfYsFLgu5vGGKPaxPAs9OV1z7itPPFqGuLYP_TTGDZOQ7-u92Gk1ksWGMnnt8605rELw0/s1600/DSCF7180.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi1X-D9HTHDZew9FSNhBBOCAONQcPutLozGRLNBrdaKInykajclenbhGLAyqSst1gGAh6onSOvfYsFLgu5vGGKPaxPAs9OV1z7itPPFqGuLYP_TTGDZOQ7-u92Gk1ksWGMnnt8605rELw0/s400/DSCF7180.jpg" width="400" /></a>
Above: The brake levers with the new mounting bolts and the grips all cleaned up. Of course the new <a category="sports & outdoors" href="http://www.blogger.com/blogger.g?blogID=4155039544820521548" type="amzn">Wald handlebars</a> really make the grips and levers look better as well.<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEipwrTzDqrZJIWCjd-LAnSIyj0EE4_nogx9PNh5KdiQ-Ocw9NPaclcYNm6w-BgpkoyAr9ueQ0gjykHNXmkOhS0Y_ZGbyU8VLEz9AqfWt6eAXCHHmfX6JB4AJBaAYZWMG3SpSIU7mWvKG6o/s1600/DSCF7185.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEipwrTzDqrZJIWCjd-LAnSIyj0EE4_nogx9PNh5KdiQ-Ocw9NPaclcYNm6w-BgpkoyAr9ueQ0gjykHNXmkOhS0Y_ZGbyU8VLEz9AqfWt6eAXCHHmfX6JB4AJBaAYZWMG3SpSIU7mWvKG6o/s400/DSCF7185.jpg" width="400" /></a>
Above: The <a category="sports & outdoors" href="http://www.blogger.com/blogger.g?blogID=4155039544820521548" type="amzn">alloy kickstand</a> and the left (cotter) side of the 2 piece crank. You can also see the detachable chain-guard bracket we were talking about on the Face Book page.<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhNLmF6ThU5g4XC-q8yJEHmGKpcui5b9E943QxrtyYsNBh2_vZ8T-s1_pEFzNBSNdWxfg4axPJcrK_FMJ9MZvQCeqsXPGsGWjRGPpoyoCtF674Y0fo64fMwFWZnbEGP9TXa1y4_1y7I5vs/s1600/DSCF7178.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhNLmF6ThU5g4XC-q8yJEHmGKpcui5b9E943QxrtyYsNBh2_vZ8T-s1_pEFzNBSNdWxfg4axPJcrK_FMJ9MZvQCeqsXPGsGWjRGPpoyoCtF674Y0fo64fMwFWZnbEGP9TXa1y4_1y7I5vs/s400/DSCF7178.jpg" width="400" /></a>
Above: The new chain and cleaned up pedals and chopped chain guard. The new rear 20 inch tire is looking good as well. You may notice the shift linkage hanging from the rear hub. At this point I am still awaiting delivery of the new seat post and <a category="sports & outdoors" href="http://www.blogger.com/blogger.g?blogID=4155039544820521548" type="amzn">Sturmey Archer 3 speed Shifter</a>. I also need to clean the main tube with <a category="automotive" href="http://www.blogger.com/blogger.g?blogID=4155039544820521548" type="amzn">Goo Gone</a> and install the faux Kalkhoff decals. I will hold off posting any more full side shots until the bike is 100% finished.<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEis5mYLrfuJdxdCHkPFwqbPW_oIX8Of_QouBj2WGo_T15doX6kyZ-zvgFogxy-5PDOugjC-4p8N0rOjK5OC9ilvyBne-ADTVk7oka3d7xk_-FZfb0X8vlPi9GNikcwTzyjaalegKdPOwhQ/s1600/DSCF7215.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEis5mYLrfuJdxdCHkPFwqbPW_oIX8Of_QouBj2WGo_T15doX6kyZ-zvgFogxy-5PDOugjC-4p8N0rOjK5OC9ilvyBne-ADTVk7oka3d7xk_-FZfb0X8vlPi9GNikcwTzyjaalegKdPOwhQ/s400/DSCF7215.jpg" width="400" /></a>
Above: The tall <a category="sports & outdoors" href="http://www.blogger.com/blogger.g?blogID=4155039544820521548" type="amzn">micro adjust seat post</a> is an awesome upgrade for this little bike. Even if the original post had been in better shape I think I would have made this upgrade. I think a micro adjust post is one of the best upgrades you can make for about $15.00 US or less.<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjnRu4ukbzcQBoPIGVCnfwGUWmT8EnrFZxpA10w431XVRenFDeMCguh3EfljVUwkNnDzjKPY_xqJ74Qwr4w1vWny9hto_1OHTLq0EUR4ZG1EagTF5wwr_jzv_4D3FnkUzjUlCJJL2OmC4c/s1600/DSCF7253.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjnRu4ukbzcQBoPIGVCnfwGUWmT8EnrFZxpA10w431XVRenFDeMCguh3EfljVUwkNnDzjKPY_xqJ74Qwr4w1vWny9hto_1OHTLq0EUR4ZG1EagTF5wwr_jzv_4D3FnkUzjUlCJJL2OmC4c/s400/DSCF7253.jpg" width="400" /></a>
Above: Here I am getting the vinyl sticker ready to be applied. Using my True Value card I rub over the decal applying pressure. This helps make sure the vinyl does not stick to the backing when you peel it off.<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi7864M68YOuuB72vNYPcoaxnq1aXOKG1BaxxFoqLVdOaV7nswq3utDwsq3c2i3i3k8elrMmrCSrx71Nw9oZ2x0OBlmWJMoXE8m16GrwBC22aSPZzW_gKRELYfPrdopZV6RhtQdN2twyJ4/s1600/DSCF7250.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi7864M68YOuuB72vNYPcoaxnq1aXOKG1BaxxFoqLVdOaV7nswq3utDwsq3c2i3i3k8elrMmrCSrx71Nw9oZ2x0OBlmWJMoXE8m16GrwBC22aSPZzW_gKRELYfPrdopZV6RhtQdN2twyJ4/s400/DSCF7250.jpg" width="400" /></a>
Above: Once I have applied the vinyl sticker, first I rub it by hand to make sure it has adhered itself to the tube. Then I peel the clear plastic off on a sharp angle. I am not pulling the plastic away as much as I am pulling it down. It is done this way "again" to help prevent the vinyl from coming off with the clear plastic. The link to "Stickers By Design" is on the links list in the right column of this page. Detailed instructions will come with your vinyl stickers. Make sure you let them which font and color you want.<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhL9cMmXK5W9oEd1F0iNOcIbhMmhe7Eal9kiA_WrARUqp2vIX5v6hhiAx4Oxib3bwW22nS-GOri2zmdrxD4HHVwEgcR19ygbMkzWpOmoYOspjzkagnNyqmuJwaeeN0_MOCiAosOqEZYr0k/s1600/DSCF7226.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhL9cMmXK5W9oEd1F0iNOcIbhMmhe7Eal9kiA_WrARUqp2vIX5v6hhiAx4Oxib3bwW22nS-GOri2zmdrxD4HHVwEgcR19ygbMkzWpOmoYOspjzkagnNyqmuJwaeeN0_MOCiAosOqEZYr0k/s400/DSCF7226.jpg" width="400" /></a>
Above: The new Sturmey Archer shifter was a simple installation thanks to Sheldon Brown. I did look up his instructions again, just to be sure I got it right. The only problem I had was seeing what the #@!! I was doing. The light in the basement (not unlike the shop/garage) leaves much to be desired. I finally got the shift cable end seated into it's little slot inside the shifter everything went smoothly after that.<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgTzNGBSLcH7iizHWAfLFyizqSlVr6ugudUOMAasq8Pg3uZJQCn9s2qz8qxmOeJ0zZhFc8EUIM93C-FMkeMy1M56M1xYC6R9wBpxSWfDux9Za4SVU2zpTKqk7mEJiy2zYJrRyb5aW9WrsI/s1600/DSCF7251.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgTzNGBSLcH7iizHWAfLFyizqSlVr6ugudUOMAasq8Pg3uZJQCn9s2qz8qxmOeJ0zZhFc8EUIM93C-FMkeMy1M56M1xYC6R9wBpxSWfDux9Za4SVU2zpTKqk7mEJiy2zYJrRyb5aW9WrsI/s400/DSCF7251.jpg" width="400" /></a>
Above: Not exactly like the original stickers, but I think they look pretty damn good. I believe the total cost for 4 stickers including shipping was about 7 dollars. If you ask me, that is a fair price for personalizing your bike
or advertising on your custom build or resto-mod. <br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhwuVaPzycu1vLuPpJHP9LiOkJko2pghoRbU3LAocCZ_BT3PdPeVoS75itaipqP7uz9my0ijFa0ee9VTZhEaopjzsb7Qo4h2zI8M5Ld1Z8ubXevdMNZJglJyr5WNc-vcHDnZ30vWm3pSB8/s1600/DSCF7255.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhwuVaPzycu1vLuPpJHP9LiOkJko2pghoRbU3LAocCZ_BT3PdPeVoS75itaipqP7uz9my0ijFa0ee9VTZhEaopjzsb7Qo4h2zI8M5Ld1Z8ubXevdMNZJglJyr5WNc-vcHDnZ30vWm3pSB8/s400/DSCF7255.jpg" width="400" /></a>
Above: I am very satisfied with the way this Kalkhoff folder came out. I test rode it today with the <a category="sports & outdoors" href="http://www.blogger.com/blogger.g?blogID=4155039544820521548" type="amzn">Sturmey Archer 3 speed hub</a> hooked up for the first time. And it functioned perfectly. Also the "wrong side" generator light works fine. Although I would supplement it with a battery operated <a category="sports & outdoors" href="http://www.blogger.com/blogger.g?blogID=4155039544820521548" type="amzn">L E D Bicycle light Set</a> before I rode it at night. <br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhRrR_W-TsRKFLNX2SiqZVcpQGLdZjms0ITtanVWg6iv-KrdI9qlVJuIB2pv2VWr0er4xSS1ljlAs-EeFp7RMXm_-dtt3IGTIhuxLj8AWw_g2D50OTf-Y_PCkHbSBWF_R7QdoWjxyOfbVY/s1600/DSCF7258.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhRrR_W-TsRKFLNX2SiqZVcpQGLdZjms0ITtanVWg6iv-KrdI9qlVJuIB2pv2VWr0er4xSS1ljlAs-EeFp7RMXm_-dtt3IGTIhuxLj8AWw_g2D50OTf-Y_PCkHbSBWF_R7QdoWjxyOfbVY/s400/DSCF7258.jpg" width="400" /></a>
Above: A shot of the port side of the bike. If I still lived in the "old neighborhood" this little bike would be perfect for riding uptown. (which was only a mile from our house) Around here it would be more of a novelty than a "ride into town" bike. But it is a blast to ride! But there is "no way" that I am keeping it. <br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEinOa582i3KOoEH-07WKLRU0HafHzaOUzcVndWbEVrbt-JPRXSGFZByz99rmDI8BXqpEWjkUcXWza1pWb2ROKA5WXn2GxqZhdrYT_aGKfJj4ul4xaD6g5JOalkycW0Pi4g2i-czfqRTGgs/s1600/DSCF7260.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEinOa582i3KOoEH-07WKLRU0HafHzaOUzcVndWbEVrbt-JPRXSGFZByz99rmDI8BXqpEWjkUcXWza1pWb2ROKA5WXn2GxqZhdrYT_aGKfJj4ul4xaD6g5JOalkycW0Pi4g2i-czfqRTGgs/s400/DSCF7260.jpg" width="400" /></a>
Above: I added one of my blog stickers to the port side chain stay. Is it still called the chain stay even though it is on the opposite side from the chain? <br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg4MTleIP4wvaTLWCfZ1fnnBV-AbdjlR_C-4yQwydga7nZdlmlhyqNuqBe1-AYpYkxrQX_t3IrNNhpHod5y23ysd45OZOheiNLDKLsPtUEl79hpjS8nAZRG_60NPzz1WToYwPgqzNWcrQs/s1600/DSCF7263.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg4MTleIP4wvaTLWCfZ1fnnBV-AbdjlR_C-4yQwydga7nZdlmlhyqNuqBe1-AYpYkxrQX_t3IrNNhpHod5y23ysd45OZOheiNLDKLsPtUEl79hpjS8nAZRG_60NPzz1WToYwPgqzNWcrQs/s400/DSCF7263.jpg" width="400" /></a>
Above: No doubt, a badge is better. But I still like the Kalkhoff delta logo. There is something very familiar about this logo, I just can't put my finger on it. I was in the "Delta Section" in junior high school? No that's not it...hmm. I am sure it will come to me latter.<br />
Until Next Time Please RIDE SAFELY and Always Remember to....RESCUE, RESTORE & RECYCLE<br />
Cheers, Hugh <br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgIqdAhZcK1EJpXdhDOIIoi3Jp-iUv56Bfxs34KyHgFq2RNFAF1h5KXMx7ykh99AOZaaBKyr4YeJbMgBxuk8V7GRtNd_4OYV2XaEdLwKyGoZYFLSfkDFYbZLbawPEAsXwqG9vYBiLYuqQc/s1600/DSCF7229.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgIqdAhZcK1EJpXdhDOIIoi3Jp-iUv56Bfxs34KyHgFq2RNFAF1h5KXMx7ykh99AOZaaBKyr4YeJbMgBxuk8V7GRtNd_4OYV2XaEdLwKyGoZYFLSfkDFYbZLbawPEAsXwqG9vYBiLYuqQc/s400/DSCF7229.jpg" width="400" /></a>
Above: I forgot to mention, I added this Bell Trunk Bag. It just seemed to be the perfect fit for this little Kalkhoff folding bike. <br />
A Special THANK YOU to those of you have been checking out Hugh's Online Bike Shop. You probably noticed that I am now adding word links to components, tools and supplies ect ect that I mention in my blog posts. Like the Store these links are powered by amazon.com . I am doing this to make it more convenient to purchase things that interest you on the blog. Also if you are new to bicycle work, and you are not sure what I am talking about? You can click on the word link just to see some examples of what I am referring to. I look at this as a positive change and I hope you do too.<br />
Thanks, Hugh Unknownnoreply@blogger.com16tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4155039544820521548.post-43519417311878126312013-03-13T00:26:00.000-04:002013-03-18T11:19:36.711-04:00Kalkhoff Restoration / Fenders, Wheels & TiresHello and Welcome,
The Kalkhoff folding bike restoration is coming along nicely. Now that the brake calipers are cleaned up and installed it is time to do see what can be done with the mudguards and struts. <br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhPLLnz3CalLI8Ymt7pvx3qGIwsvh7UBQlL67zzoT3Uq3LVjGoEG4K1FtnFxioybPomHTROnw2HlJCb8cXZuAbcpDeqi7KJ6nZsRQT5PnlELtLuCjGqwsSEtL0wc2EqFO8kaTnHbsA8Sl0/s1600/DSCF7098.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhPLLnz3CalLI8Ymt7pvx3qGIwsvh7UBQlL67zzoT3Uq3LVjGoEG4K1FtnFxioybPomHTROnw2HlJCb8cXZuAbcpDeqi7KJ6nZsRQT5PnlELtLuCjGqwsSEtL0wc2EqFO8kaTnHbsA8Sl0/s400/DSCF7098.jpg" width="400" /></a>
Above: Initially I tried polishing the fenders with <a category="automotive" href="http://www.blogger.com/blogger.g?blogID=4155039544820521548" type="amzn"> Mother's Mag & Aluminum Polish</a>. While the mudguards did look much better after polishing, there was still some discoloration. I`m not really sure if you would call it oxidation? But for lack of a better word, I`ll go with that. I decided to brush the fenders. I did this using a <a category="tools & hardware" href="http://www.blogger.com/blogger.g?blogID=4155039544820521548" type="amzn"> Fine Brass wheel-brush </a> on my high speed <a category="tools & hardware" href="http://www.blogger.com/blogger.g?blogID=4155039544820521548" type="amzn"> DeWalt 3/8 keyless chuck drill.</a> <br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEizQDw9vmmTeiKuS2azhN2vFXUS7VBKR6KW-7MdpAuITPz2V41sCJlxAadaeelWwDgzgkpUQTYT938dBpkOSRqWmyY1bbU_xTQY7qnclCQaRcPrCOzm4IjfhQCqjVRljA4N-v2DkRPT57M/s1600/DSCF7114.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEizQDw9vmmTeiKuS2azhN2vFXUS7VBKR6KW-7MdpAuITPz2V41sCJlxAadaeelWwDgzgkpUQTYT938dBpkOSRqWmyY1bbU_xTQY7qnclCQaRcPrCOzm4IjfhQCqjVRljA4N-v2DkRPT57M/s400/DSCF7114.jpg" width="400" /></a>
Above: When it comes to protecting the freshly brushed aluminum I am going to try using <a category="tools & hardware" href="http://www.blogger.com/blogger.g?blogID=4155039544820521548" type="amzn"> "Eastwood Metal Protect" </a>. From the reviews I have read this sounds like a good economical choice. Having the mudguards anodized clear would probably be too expensive. I also read somewhere you can use a "silicone based" lubricant like <a category="tools & hardware" href="http://www.blogger.com/blogger.g?blogID=4155039544820521548" type="amzn"> TriFlo </a> spray lubricant. But I have not read any reviews yet about using that method.<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjY_a_e_PVHNv83cZ-4cLdpLa00_5fDDZuWVyx9KOqB1PQ4VYsWDPcHTkHnho9OCohXNJTYLx397uqvozzjY_Y0DImM_EeCFmhBpBqutc5wcx8NEYfI7JPmIC6AD1PX89vQX-H8HsAgmm0/s1600/DSCF7109.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjY_a_e_PVHNv83cZ-4cLdpLa00_5fDDZuWVyx9KOqB1PQ4VYsWDPcHTkHnho9OCohXNJTYLx397uqvozzjY_Y0DImM_EeCFmhBpBqutc5wcx8NEYfI7JPmIC6AD1PX89vQX-H8HsAgmm0/s400/DSCF7109.jpg" width="400" /></a>
Above: I also cleaned up the struts, again using the <a category="tools & hardware" href="http://www.blogger.com/blogger.g?blogID=4155039544820521548" type="amzn">fine brass wheel brush </a> (high speed drill) and a little fine automotive grade sand paper. To dress up the installation a little I added leather washers at the connection point (above). The struts will also need to be protected. to protect the struts I will use <a category="automotive" href="http://www.blogger.com/blogger.g?blogID=4155039544820521548" type="amzn">Turtle Wax Chrome Polish & Rust Remover. </a> There was a slight bend in one of the rear struts. I was able to hammer it out using my <a category="tools & hardware" href="http://www.blogger.com/blogger.g?blogID=4155039544820521548" type="amzn">Ball Pein Hammer </a> on the anvil part of my bench vise. <br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi5tgpRhum7GISVNAYK8PD_jTqV-JHHYGYKqe2QK3VCbHN1dGSkPuuvvSY03uLvk19oDU_rBzhqWtSWrYsOxMx-f94DJW8OJXkK1z1An3dD4SFiiBM7Zx55U1PF-XzaNh0E2F1aQrAbDVU/s1600/DSCF7100.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi5tgpRhum7GISVNAYK8PD_jTqV-JHHYGYKqe2QK3VCbHN1dGSkPuuvvSY03uLvk19oDU_rBzhqWtSWrYsOxMx-f94DJW8OJXkK1z1An3dD4SFiiBM7Zx55U1PF-XzaNh0E2F1aQrAbDVU/s400/DSCF7100.jpg" width="400" /></a>
Above: The front wheel was rusty, but it looked savable. First I brushed between the <a category="sports & outdoors" href="http://www.blogger.com/blogger.g?blogID=4155039544820521548" type="amzn"> spokes </a> using a brass detail brush. Then I polished it using Turtle Wax Chrome polish & Rust Remover. Afterwards I touched up around the spoke nipples using the brass detail brush. Then hand buffed the rim with with a clean rag. I brushed the side of the rim (braking surface) using the fine brass wheel brush. For the spokes I used <a category="automotive" href="http://www.blogger.com/blogger.g?blogID=4155039544820521548" type="amzn"> Armor All cleaning Wipes,</a> and fine automotive grade sand paper on the nasty looking spokes. <br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhijBn4PeAYcK7G1tn4nTNKA6DO8uEZYdPORoByAqhNKeJIVqrm85FImjY2lIjgQgiGVYIISxKHdU3STH7jS6IDtE3QZ0q8a2_m6wBJcGDIS-h7JOh6jgglOQxTtkI4g4FA5B_14HFZhQ8/s1600/DSCF7097.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhijBn4PeAYcK7G1tn4nTNKA6DO8uEZYdPORoByAqhNKeJIVqrm85FImjY2lIjgQgiGVYIISxKHdU3STH7jS6IDtE3QZ0q8a2_m6wBJcGDIS-h7JOh6jgglOQxTtkI4g4FA5B_14HFZhQ8/s400/DSCF7097.jpg" width="400" /></a>
Above: I cleaned the flanges and outer hub using the <a category="automotive" href="http://www.blogger.com/blogger.g?blogID=4155039544820521548" type="amzn"> brass detail brush </a> and the wheel brush on the high speed drill.
Fortunately the bearings still had some grease so the cups cleaned out fairly easily using <a category="automotive" href="http://www.blogger.com/blogger.g?blogID=4155039544820521548" type="amzn"> Armor All Cleaning Wipes. </a> on hand, I went ahead and replaced them anyway. <br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjErX7nNFTKr4e5fd-MGBlXLn4rGOiSt0hGLnWORPLlbJaAyiL43ojwxVaH7pWeQRgMU_kuFDp6zpwG8s2Lo3kiGQpJBLrSDo7QXEaJ3fsbtXM8M6jGenkojkE9M7XTXv_wG796omY6DwQ/s1600/DSCF7117.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjErX7nNFTKr4e5fd-MGBlXLn4rGOiSt0hGLnWORPLlbJaAyiL43ojwxVaH7pWeQRgMU_kuFDp6zpwG8s2Lo3kiGQpJBLrSDo7QXEaJ3fsbtXM8M6jGenkojkE9M7XTXv_wG796omY6DwQ/s400/DSCF7117.jpg" width="400" /></a>
Above: Thanks to the <a category="sports & outdoors" href="http://www.blogger.com/blogger.g?blogID=4155039544820521548" type="amzn">Sturmey Archer internal 3 speed hub </a> with the oil port, the rear wheel was in much better shape. The oil tends to splatter and coat / protect the rear wheel. (and anything else it gets on) I added a few drops of multi weight oil to the rear hub. There are different opinions as to which type oil to use in an older Sturmey Archer hub. Some claim a lighter clear oil is best. Others say a heavier oil is better, as it will stay in the hub and splatter less. I say any oil is better than none. I "think" my little oil bottle has some left over 20W 40 motorcycle oil in it. The rear wheel cleaned up the same way as the front, only much easier :) when I spin the rear wheel while holding the <a category="sports & outdoors" href="http://www.blogger.com/blogger.g?blogID=4155039544820521548" type="amzn"> freewheel cog </a> in place and manipulate the shift chain linkage by hand, I can hear the hub is functioning properly. Please! Do not do this with the chain in place (just in case). And be careful to keep your fingers out of the spokes! Consider yourself CAUTIONED. <br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjAPII441c12vIzgnLtVL9ht4mwcD7w1-2iumHX7KaaW32YIWYiziiqefqDCTPDUk_X8ZZhWhtCUYTuGNFvo9EWtLU2w5WScN2aO-CRi5ULN8mD5W5qpncCcvY1GafD2i0EiPbpYHXEUX8/s1600/DSCF7137.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjAPII441c12vIzgnLtVL9ht4mwcD7w1-2iumHX7KaaW32YIWYiziiqefqDCTPDUk_X8ZZhWhtCUYTuGNFvo9EWtLU2w5WScN2aO-CRi5ULN8mD5W5qpncCcvY1GafD2i0EiPbpYHXEUX8/s400/DSCF7137.jpg" width="400" /></a>
Above: After the wheels were cleaned up it was time for some fresh <a category="sports & outdoors" href="http://www.blogger.com/blogger.g?blogID=4155039544820521548" type="amzn">rim strips.</a> I found if I warm up these strips first they are a little bit easier to stretch. After installing the tape I had some spots where the tape had folded over or was off center. To fix this I carefully slid a small screwdriver under the tape spanning across the rim. As I slid the driver along under the tape I could work out the folds and manipulate the tape to one side or the other.
When I was finished doing this the rim strips looked sweet. Now I am ready for new tubes and tires.<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjBTcxL3q3i3-_JV4YH_mqY0OL4GWnrBrLDc5eeO1v-VL5lLFWcjuuIUVdRJ2o8s_TqGG_7tr5_19HhYDnDY4M6wSvr4Lnm_vCVwxjyPwf6CNfmIyh5CJZdex330Aph1G3EOSeImeSSuXI/s1600/DSCF7139.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjBTcxL3q3i3-_JV4YH_mqY0OL4GWnrBrLDc5eeO1v-VL5lLFWcjuuIUVdRJ2o8s_TqGG_7tr5_19HhYDnDY4M6wSvr4Lnm_vCVwxjyPwf6CNfmIyh5CJZdex330Aph1G3EOSeImeSSuXI/s400/DSCF7139.jpg" width="400" /></a>
Above: When ordering inner-tubes I like to order the smallest tubes that will fit. Example: If I need tubes for a <a category="sports & outdoors" href="http://www.blogger.com/blogger.g?blogID=4155039544820521548" type="amzn"> 27 x 1 1/4 inch tire.</a> I will order a tube that fits a 1 & 1/8 to 1& 1/4 inch tire. But I Would Not order a tube that fits a 1 & 1/4 to a 1 & 3/8 inch wide tire. I have found that a larger tube will be more prone to getting pinched between the bead and the rim during mounting. <br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjHn-Upr4Aszba_nUTFKj2Jl6lItB-bWs-yIMdeubsSk6PpwkeiampxC7izgr9uy9BQiSet0VZMFNd1foQ5k2GZkMiGRMBszRcQPlsdBMvKqw2m3XyLKQQU4Oq1LOFXZr-clCu0yWxTGCQ/s1600/DSCF7140.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjHn-Upr4Aszba_nUTFKj2Jl6lItB-bWs-yIMdeubsSk6PpwkeiampxC7izgr9uy9BQiSet0VZMFNd1foQ5k2GZkMiGRMBszRcQPlsdBMvKqw2m3XyLKQQU4Oq1LOFXZr-clCu0yWxTGCQ/s400/DSCF7140.jpg" width="400" /></a>
Above: Here I have inflated the inner tube just enough to hold it's shape. I insert the tube into the tire with the valve located directly under the inflation info on the sidewall. You can see this tube is not over sized and sits down in the tire nice and low away from the bead. This should be a simple tire mount. There are few other things you want to make sure are correct before purchasing new inner tubes. One make sure it is the same valve type. The most common ones are Schrader valves and Presta valves. If you have taller rims you will need to make sure the valve stem length is correct as well. You can also purchase puncture resistant and self sealing tubes as well. I have heard there is another type valve on the market now as well, called a Dunlop valve. Like it wasn't confusing enough already!<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg16sXNrXZ-KUV65rZcBkQDg-uxfg1pT3WTi0P-nqGBBQYEUj52rEklcH3H62Tv4UOFYl_kmRkDkcBBWtR_gdq4VdHjfn39uEiA0tPKdMn5KTKgua6oXkgRX8p2RkBjYYWsWTF26yh6Gwo/s1600/valves+-+uk+something+site.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="330" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg16sXNrXZ-KUV65rZcBkQDg-uxfg1pT3WTi0P-nqGBBQYEUj52rEklcH3H62Tv4UOFYl_kmRkDkcBBWtR_gdq4VdHjfn39uEiA0tPKdMn5KTKgua6oXkgRX8p2RkBjYYWsWTF26yh6Gwo/s400/valves+-+uk+something+site.jpg" width="400" /></a>
Photo (above) Courtesy of -online-bikes.co.uk <br />
Above: The three most common valve types. Keep in mind, if you change valve types you may need an adapter or need to re-drill the valve stem hole in your rim. When purchasing an air pump you will want to make sure the new pump will connect to the valves you use. My pump the "JoeBlow Sprint" will work with Schrader or Presta valves. UPDATE: I am still very pleased with my <a category="sports & outdoors" href="http://www.blogger.com/blogger.g?blogID=4155039544820521548" type="amzn"> JoeBlow Sprint pump by Topeak </a>. <br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgXlxa_VtS7HFUZc4gtK-HC9BfDKE5i-m8F1nTEoTSRM58mzsVDvb6wlTvHa2ytkewjc3TZK99Pj5nJxm-WWFL-ObvuoJnWQwaYo-kHf5S_PExBprCo48SBm1y6R49mxIvfNXc5AIwfLQ4/s1600/DSCF7146.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgXlxa_VtS7HFUZc4gtK-HC9BfDKE5i-m8F1nTEoTSRM58mzsVDvb6wlTvHa2ytkewjc3TZK99Pj5nJxm-WWFL-ObvuoJnWQwaYo-kHf5S_PExBprCo48SBm1y6R49mxIvfNXc5AIwfLQ4/s400/DSCF7146.jpg" width="400" /></a>
Above: I like to start mounting the tire right at the valve so I can make sure the valve is straight and in the proper location. Then I flip the wheel over and start directly across from the valve stem and work the tire onto the rim by hand finishing at the stem. (as shown above) Note: Some tires are directional so check for the rotation arrows on the sidewall of the tire before you start. <br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgtjn1mNm7tJZ1ew__S3sNxzyj0pJVTlfkFjfCs3poPEOlShrm0uSvLNknDuJlxqIhCduZJs0sOyrsscAZ4mGCVPi-q1Y8yRAICQNvc5wIHdPoSEQPedfoP-UWsRUyLn5-o1r21DDhWHNo/s1600/DSCF7148.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgtjn1mNm7tJZ1ew__S3sNxzyj0pJVTlfkFjfCs3poPEOlShrm0uSvLNknDuJlxqIhCduZJs0sOyrsscAZ4mGCVPi-q1Y8yRAICQNvc5wIHdPoSEQPedfoP-UWsRUyLn5-o1r21DDhWHNo/s400/DSCF7148.jpg" width="400" /></a>
Above: These tires arrived cold "like everything else around here this time of year". If your unmounted tires are cold warm them up a bit before you try to install them. This simple thing will make the job much easier. I might add.. If you are having trouble getting the tire on the rim try removing a little air from the tube. After mounting the tires I normally inflate the tires to about 20 lbs psi then let the air out and refill the tires. This should remove any kinks that you may have in the tube. Sometimes with high pressure tires I will only fill them about 65 to 75% and let them set a day or two before maxing out the pressure. Keep in mind... These are just suggestions, what works for me might might not work for you. <br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiwaA30TFwItpyR1JaJ0TLfyxXL48UjxTrndefEnys2enHWQZkr5kBQhSmO29Za4j4690ESMfTIdeWeVjow_qOL4kIEckzdZrlkSYGveIQ9_uMxaxGObrFUYEYYIdDuqStubzZCdUDeezo/s1600/DSCF7152.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiwaA30TFwItpyR1JaJ0TLfyxXL48UjxTrndefEnys2enHWQZkr5kBQhSmO29Za4j4690ESMfTIdeWeVjow_qOL4kIEckzdZrlkSYGveIQ9_uMxaxGObrFUYEYYIdDuqStubzZCdUDeezo/s400/DSCF7152.jpg" width="400" /></a>
Above: The original rack all cleaned up. I have been amazed before by how well "what appears to be a cheaply made rack" with "less than stellar chrome work" will clean-up so nicely. Don`t be to quick to replace the old rack is the message here. A little brass brushing and Turtle Wax Chrome Polish & Rust Remover will go along way. And Please be sure to wear your <a category="tools & hardware" href="http://www.blogger.com/blogger.g?blogID=4155039544820521548" type="amzn"> safety glasses!</a> Yesterday I literally had to remove a brass bristle from my left nostril. When that brass wheel brush is spinning at high rpm's those bristles are like little darts! I was thinking yesterday, If I had not been wearing my glasses and that little bugger had stuck in my good eye, I would have been in Deep $#!7 <br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgHf6_1rF6gyBDlMjtu5xvKfZT0kHQvDMGc_vR4_g4XVSMZNdLxMZ3C3AV-yh-NjgdJWw3UCDWcqJeQF7lymL0-A7h__gjtvAEb-4SGWVwHvzMM2pIfXI1_r8ok3noLMieGYaWWT9zl-Fc/s1600/DSCF7155.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgHf6_1rF6gyBDlMjtu5xvKfZT0kHQvDMGc_vR4_g4XVSMZNdLxMZ3C3AV-yh-NjgdJWw3UCDWcqJeQF7lymL0-A7h__gjtvAEb-4SGWVwHvzMM2pIfXI1_r8ok3noLMieGYaWWT9zl-Fc/s400/DSCF7155.jpg" width="400" /></a>
Above: The little chrome rack has really exceeded all my expectations. And with a little maintenance should give several more years of service . Until Next Time Please RIDE SAFELY and Remember to Always .... RESCUE, RESTORE & RECYCLE! Cheers, Hugh <br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhLEFNeXDk7dGJAaAxeak7A65_q0RwwEDam-Uyrnl9mY8cHKB7HzopWmXVYLaSHi9RlHt_y0uFUvxG2b_m24NMx5oe2wfkbQohL8hnOwgD3ybJyWUEYCiw0ImMI14pf0trpikZVI299z_8/s1600/2013+Db+cobra+mountain+bike.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="372" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhLEFNeXDk7dGJAaAxeak7A65_q0RwwEDam-Uyrnl9mY8cHKB7HzopWmXVYLaSHi9RlHt_y0uFUvxG2b_m24NMx5oe2wfkbQohL8hnOwgD3ybJyWUEYCiw0ImMI14pf0trpikZVI299z_8/s400/2013+Db+cobra+mountain+bike.jpg" width="400" /></a>
Thanks again to those of you who have been checking out "Hugh's Online Bike Shop". Recently I added some smaller bikes like this<a category="sports & outdoors" href="http://www.blogger.com/blogger.g?blogID=4155039544820521548" type="amzn"> 24 inch (wheel size)Diamnodback Cobra Mountain Bike.</a> (shown above) I have also added some even smaller tyke and kids bikes as well. If you see something that is not in the store let me know (via comment) and I will do my best to get it in there. The Link to "Hugh's Online Bike Shop" is in the upper right column just below the Members/Followers.
Cheers, Hugh
Unknownnoreply@blogger.com9tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4155039544820521548.post-30058099413875703352013-03-09T16:39:00.001-05:002013-05-10T16:45:38.861-04:00Kalkhoff Restoration / Brakes, HeadSet & CrankHello and Welcome, For the past month or so the weather here has been pretty brutal. I have been doing some of my bike work in the basement. However, do to fumes and dust etc. etc. some of the work has to be done in the shop. Because of the harsh weather, not much "shop work" has been getting done around here lately. <br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjJOtX9DyYcJQctZXjqVLFbcDa3JW8z15N8fWoUeYfuwtATEJFF4xVad_U46mONy9vtXbs_sPb1lE_nsk0JgTeEIBMrdI3plg91j-cO1E_v7B8bpQBbBsKHKDamc5jv_VY_fYmC_cyugLA/s1600/DSCF6990.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjJOtX9DyYcJQctZXjqVLFbcDa3JW8z15N8fWoUeYfuwtATEJFF4xVad_U46mONy9vtXbs_sPb1lE_nsk0JgTeEIBMrdI3plg91j-cO1E_v7B8bpQBbBsKHKDamc5jv_VY_fYmC_cyugLA/s400/DSCF6990.jpg" width="400" /></a>
But there is good news! Today we are supposed to be back in the mid to upper 40's Fahrenheit. When the temp gets up around 40+ degrees F the heaters can get it up well over 50 degrees in the shop. The shop/garage is not insulated and has thin metal overhead doors. So basically when it is in the mid to low 20's F it is impossible to get it anything close to comfortable in there.<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgVy2aQ1x_yn4KvFNlU83NrT9OUc-UZYD9G0_zw6EKsEsZ8x8NRWCoi2sg78KfXojl48urC2ipwfLGRKOkAo_ApZJzlo_lKh_VF9D__4lL6QQEdIN17xO5emUG8b01_3Up3H-ZvaTpfFfs/s1600/DSCF7029.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgVy2aQ1x_yn4KvFNlU83NrT9OUc-UZYD9G0_zw6EKsEsZ8x8NRWCoi2sg78KfXojl48urC2ipwfLGRKOkAo_ApZJzlo_lKh_VF9D__4lL6QQEdIN17xO5emUG8b01_3Up3H-ZvaTpfFfs/s400/DSCF7029.jpg" width="400" /></a>
Above: The Kalkhoff looking pretty much the same as did did the day I found it (I guess) about 3 years ago . I remember thinking, Where in the hell am I going to find a stem that long? I was not aware until recently that <a category="sports & outdoors" href="http://www.blogger.com/blogger.g?blogID=4155039544820521548" type="amzn"> tall stem quills </a> are actually fairly common, and not all that hard to find. So that is what happens when I "go negative". I just set the little bike aside, not wanting to deal with "what turned out to be no real issue at all". There is a message in there somewhere. <br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgIzFiujNfQUKmmoCuKF1N5tGjRiCYcU3el2fT8WnPpJRzEEfUrwJmHvhqFTgXfMjpQFqw4LIoPyL32Yu1WYsNmXgY_KgPRrzg_TrhYRiGDr-27oLhA8iBGH5MidesMyKwUqxcFzoDl5qg/s1600/DSCF7050.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgIzFiujNfQUKmmoCuKF1N5tGjRiCYcU3el2fT8WnPpJRzEEfUrwJmHvhqFTgXfMjpQFqw4LIoPyL32Yu1WYsNmXgY_KgPRrzg_TrhYRiGDr-27oLhA8iBGH5MidesMyKwUqxcFzoDl5qg/s400/DSCF7050.jpg" width="400" /></a>
Above: Once I had stripped the bike down to the frame I moved the frame inside and cleaned it up in comfort using <a category="automotive" href="http://www.blogger.com/blogger.g?blogID=4155039544820521548" type="amzn">Armor All Cleaning Wipes</a>. My plan was to do the dirty work in the shop, then bring the components inside as they are finished. This all seemed like a really good plan. And it was, at least until the temp dropped way down below freezing.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjBQNvn0EGUilgbjWc-34Jy5cQgzwwkp0esCsac0EiW8nsfHLE6OzCZUmQKZPzirPQYq_MqDke77vXxU6IsjMbO-jVZgKE7uR5RzybP_g9nD2YxO_0exX9CuX6l5S8UGPYcHox1krr-EB8/s1600/DSCF7047.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjBQNvn0EGUilgbjWc-34Jy5cQgzwwkp0esCsac0EiW8nsfHLE6OzCZUmQKZPzirPQYq_MqDke77vXxU6IsjMbO-jVZgKE7uR5RzybP_g9nD2YxO_0exX9CuX6l5S8UGPYcHox1krr-EB8/s400/DSCF7047.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
Above: I decided to start with cleaning up the brake calipers. This would give me a chance to try out the new <a category="tools & hardware" href="http://www.blogger.com/blogger.g?blogID=4155039544820521548" type="amzn">Kendal 160 Watts Ultrasonic Cleaner</a>. <br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg6L_27NLAV7xrNldRTv0ObGgVxG1EWdoJgBQAKrsWFXpr0qUuV_4yU3xSaVHJiiDez4MO-Z2yPqwCtaI2bSjWIVKUTzy6fU53WqH3Hp4EOC63LHDL-3Oa5BBlLUnfEaE6XL44Q5oyqHjo/s1600/DSCF7061.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg6L_27NLAV7xrNldRTv0ObGgVxG1EWdoJgBQAKrsWFXpr0qUuV_4yU3xSaVHJiiDez4MO-Z2yPqwCtaI2bSjWIVKUTzy6fU53WqH3Hp4EOC63LHDL-3Oa5BBlLUnfEaE6XL44Q5oyqHjo/s400/DSCF7061.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
Above: Here I have placed the parts into the basket and put the basket into the tank. Then filled the tank with warm water (this saves heat up time) and added about 10% <a category="tools & hardware" href="http://www.blogger.com/blogger.g?blogID=4155039544820521548" type="amzn">Simple Green Biodegradable All-Purpose Cleaner </a> . Then I ran it through 3 or 4 full cycles. Note: I have not placed any plastic parts into the cleaner. And I will put the top on the cleaner before running it through the cycle(s). <br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiJ1yQYts1ExR7PjA-UVPfmM5jxIVWcz2Gn_Tp5MuhJ7Q5z1Q1yMqsX7noyk17VTQbk1EabMbhyphenhyphenXDWvMXcvKz73a3erPtmJkU0CG-kLMr8XC5LGgSgXHJki2Quyq5BhiIiwiFD8zlmNPTc/s1600/DSCF7064.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiJ1yQYts1ExR7PjA-UVPfmM5jxIVWcz2Gn_Tp5MuhJ7Q5z1Q1yMqsX7noyk17VTQbk1EabMbhyphenhyphenXDWvMXcvKz73a3erPtmJkU0CG-kLMr8XC5LGgSgXHJki2Quyq5BhiIiwiFD8zlmNPTc/s400/DSCF7064.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
Above: Here the caliper brake is re-assembled. Notice the <a category="sports & outdoors" href="http://www.blogger.com/blogger.g?blogID=4155039544820521548" type="amzn"> barrel adjuster </a> and some of the smaller bits look a little dull. It is also pretty obvious that the caliper will still need to be polished with Mother's. The caliper on the left is untouched and is shown only for comparison. <br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjqIGk4IVG77Wna8u5Ky-5lIZBU5Zvsa7d2q7k4KaqOSvNPUEhEzG990siiiV97A5N1FM-ZNqLMVHqOyQgV6jVnmWzFlGPAUW5pvNLbngvhNZF7aEQLozGtN8MEaXRcSr6D659RHzqoUJs/s1600/DSCF7065.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjqIGk4IVG77Wna8u5Ky-5lIZBU5Zvsa7d2q7k4KaqOSvNPUEhEzG990siiiV97A5N1FM-ZNqLMVHqOyQgV6jVnmWzFlGPAUW5pvNLbngvhNZF7aEQLozGtN8MEaXRcSr6D659RHzqoUJs/s400/DSCF7065.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
Above: Although polished, I will still need to clean up the barrel adjusters using the <a category="tools & hardware" href="http://www.blogger.com/blogger.g?blogID=4155039544820521548" type="amzn"> fine brass wheel brush </a> on the high speed drill. I might add that pre cleaning the caliper parts made it much easier (and quicker) to polish up the caliper brakes. And I used much less <a type="amzn" category="automotive">Mother's Mag and Aluminum Polish</a> than I normally would. <br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjZzvIjwkSaakomCs5_g2MrirVoaU-i-O36H-CCY4XGAX4EtZ5oxYW_k8jzlJKm9meI4wyAmvCQA9n3V6M6xbauS72CoIpp5_-wu5Rar-TN4myIc-TCSH8psmGDlyBKBeoDPPybdS4QiD0/s1600/DSCF7070.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjZzvIjwkSaakomCs5_g2MrirVoaU-i-O36H-CCY4XGAX4EtZ5oxYW_k8jzlJKm9meI4wyAmvCQA9n3V6M6xbauS72CoIpp5_-wu5Rar-TN4myIc-TCSH8psmGDlyBKBeoDPPybdS4QiD0/s400/DSCF7070.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
Above: Both calipers finished, including polishing and cleaning up the barrel adjusters and smaller bits using the fine brass wheel brush on the <a category="tools & hardware" href="http://www.blogger.com/blogger.g?blogID=4155039544820521548" type="amzn"> DeWalt keyless chuck high speed drill </a>. A low speed drill will also work fine. It was cold in the shop and I wanted to get the wheel-brushing done as quickly as possible. On the right is the front brake caliper with the barrel adjuster mounted up top. This is because the <a category="sports & outdoors" href="http://www.blogger.com/blogger.g?blogID=4155039544820521548" type="amzn"> Jagwire Basics Galvanized Brake Cable </a> is routed to the caliper from above. The rear brake caliper (on the left) is reversed because with the step through frame the cable is routed so that it comes to the caliper from below. I deliberately showed this process in steps to illustrate just how important each step is. I have also installed new <a category="sports & outdoors" href="http://www.blogger.com/blogger.g?blogID=4155039544820521548" type="amzn"> Jag Wire brake shoes</a>. Once the levers are polished and the new Jag wire cables and housings are installed, the brakes should look (and work) like brand new when finished. <br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjseAwWnVdfolput63hQOgeY74ysnFs-3RiR22iMMRqIdz4HCnuNiq4qXHeG9HmNNzi8BdFd2WAld2Qa43D0RpIJtb8eAR6JXygmuNJ3jWETOh_uy3QlC7s9aWsyb1Pj2DVsfrV2kFO4aQ/s1600/DSCF7079.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjseAwWnVdfolput63hQOgeY74ysnFs-3RiR22iMMRqIdz4HCnuNiq4qXHeG9HmNNzi8BdFd2WAld2Qa43D0RpIJtb8eAR6JXygmuNJ3jWETOh_uy3QlC7s9aWsyb1Pj2DVsfrV2kFO4aQ/s400/DSCF7079.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
Above: Here I have mounted the <a category="sports collectibles" href="http://www.blogger.com/blogger.g?blogID=4155039544820521548" type="amzn"> rear bicycle brake caliper </a> on the bike. It makes sense (to me anyway) to mount the caliper before the mudguard (fender). I can adjust the position of the fender, I can not adjust the location of the brake caliper. The two holes above the caliper are for attaching the rack. I hope the scratches I can see there will be hidden when the rack is installed.
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiZE71nXKL4C95MrS-83JZnnt5Qn2hBoaGpfJ93Ly087Gx8jz4QXQmYh1Nzk-RU2GvS4g4aSNC2srvGwGQftgCgv_an0l75EDiHd6mnUfYPQWYG5ERHV6397537UiC6qgrSYeLWMZANlxg/s1600/DSCF7055.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiZE71nXKL4C95MrS-83JZnnt5Qn2hBoaGpfJ93Ly087Gx8jz4QXQmYh1Nzk-RU2GvS4g4aSNC2srvGwGQftgCgv_an0l75EDiHd6mnUfYPQWYG5ERHV6397537UiC6qgrSYeLWMZANlxg/s400/DSCF7055.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
Above: I have decided to do rebuild the Head Set next reusing the <a category="sports & outdoors" href="http://www.blogger.com/blogger.g?blogID=4155039544820521548" type="amzn"> headset bearings and cups</a> (A&B). Fortunately there was still some grease on the bearings and the cups are not scored. Now I can see if the Ultrasonic Cleaner can do what I really wanted it for. And that is to degrease and clean some old cartridge bearings. I will clean the Head Set bearing cups in place. Since they are fairly clean and undamaged, I see no real upside to removing them. <br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhKGOh6Ank1poInk7u3bFoCfxFgOgN1zyaWL2OcF3q8PyE6d3Uq342XoBMFZyqIbo6beQ6Y3PsHncHoab0kqDYPhzLYqnJdxzxP1ZjI1L3cW1Iz5fNAPunK5SDvMC8rbxeLZcEwp7CCLP4/s1600/DSCF7071.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhKGOh6Ank1poInk7u3bFoCfxFgOgN1zyaWL2OcF3q8PyE6d3Uq342XoBMFZyqIbo6beQ6Y3PsHncHoab0kqDYPhzLYqnJdxzxP1ZjI1L3cW1Iz5fNAPunK5SDvMC8rbxeLZcEwp7CCLP4/s400/DSCF7071.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
Above: Here are the Headset (H) and <a category="sports & outdoors" href="http://www.blogger.com/blogger.g?blogID=4155039544820521548" type="amzn"> Bicycle Bottom Bracket Bearing </a> (C) all cleaned up. Also the hardware for the left side crank (LC), And the top threaded race, spacer and cap nut (HRC) for the Headset. On these the Kendal Ultrasonic Cleaner worked Great! This cleaner should pay for itself "if it holds up". The <a category="sports & outdoors" href="http://www.blogger.com/blogger.g?blogID=4155039544820521548" type="amzn"> White Lightning Clean Streak </a> I usually use for this is really wonderful stuff. But it's not cheap and does get expensive after a while. <br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhMXT-K3YMMD_9u88dcFVRy3NKCdw2rq_sz1qVV3BR01Jtr5fmIvh4w3reOLwT1eUKMeb7Z3utLNAXE9mGhWbsI0pB3ArV0sHZzvV6AWro1ILhTbzBUtagpkmgOwcrF6o1XhpyiONrO-Mk/s1600/DSCF7102.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhMXT-K3YMMD_9u88dcFVRy3NKCdw2rq_sz1qVV3BR01Jtr5fmIvh4w3reOLwT1eUKMeb7Z3utLNAXE9mGhWbsI0pB3ArV0sHZzvV6AWro1ILhTbzBUtagpkmgOwcrF6o1XhpyiONrO-Mk/s400/DSCF7102.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
Above: The <a category="sports & outdoors" href="http://www.blogger.com/blogger.g?blogID=4155039544820521548" type="amzn"> Threaded Headset </a> is typical except for a few little odd things. First, after the cap nut is installed there is about an inch or so of threaded Steerer tube exposed at the top. Second there is a clamp that fits over the exposed Steerer tube (as seen above). Also the Steerer tube is slotted so the clamp actually constricts or clamps the Steerer tube to the stem.<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgptn5UvEJAz1MuUOo2-SeCEpopn6KL5ozirzSu0yGSQ1YdyHLX_zWOhvRWv6tmTkS-t6WR4dQ3io6YG9rEjyZ8WhhwL735-TFynM1L9Nngw40DPmI2Jbk3HPK29dY7_DewMLGjTZ9jv4U/s1600/DSCF7132.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgptn5UvEJAz1MuUOo2-SeCEpopn6KL5ozirzSu0yGSQ1YdyHLX_zWOhvRWv6tmTkS-t6WR4dQ3io6YG9rEjyZ8WhhwL735-TFynM1L9Nngw40DPmI2Jbk3HPK29dY7_DewMLGjTZ9jv4U/s400/DSCF7132.jpg" width="400" /></a>
Above: The stem is also secured to the inner steer tube by way of a wedge nut. Although this one has more the "cork shaped" type nut. On this type stem the bottom of the stem is also slotted. So as the cork shaped nut is pulled up into the stem (by tightening the stem bolt located at the top of the stem) it expands the bottom of the stem securing it to the inside of the Steerer tube. And there is still one more rather odd thing about this stem.<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgiSVeC2wPoZqYV3VvW7DDpS9u9h4Xcpsgvke6c5ou4YIMz9hAAztN2NetmH0jijPJ6qopoHFKNgDhJZ84uq1BxXjodgoGuGPe-ji1pODHU-BgsbZjQ4IJNEniRdYWBO-ewUOAh8R4ApzE/s1600/DSCF7130.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgiSVeC2wPoZqYV3VvW7DDpS9u9h4Xcpsgvke6c5ou4YIMz9hAAztN2NetmH0jijPJ6qopoHFKNgDhJZ84uq1BxXjodgoGuGPe-ji1pODHU-BgsbZjQ4IJNEniRdYWBO-ewUOAh8R4ApzE/s400/DSCF7130.jpg" width="400" /></a>
Above: The Stem bolt (Red Arrow) also acts as a clamp bolt for the handlebars. This would explain the extra clamp
on the top of the exposed threaded Steerer tube. Otherwise if you wanted to adjust the angle of the handlebars you would have to loosen up the stem as well. Normally I am amazed by German Engineering. In this case I am baffled and confused..ltms <br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi-6kr0akAhkzGHTfm0pKZkjWNwV22niUeYFnBezWB-hfUODP_ne1Pf19jBxrkKOE0rnnERee1QANTnIOl28f9F7Wrf9U93kVd8LmtpjJDDqM_l5M0aSRItM17UW9aqa488SO3GygItzwI/s1600/DSCF7134.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi-6kr0akAhkzGHTfm0pKZkjWNwV22niUeYFnBezWB-hfUODP_ne1Pf19jBxrkKOE0rnnERee1QANTnIOl28f9F7Wrf9U93kVd8LmtpjJDDqM_l5M0aSRItM17UW9aqa488SO3GygItzwI/s400/DSCF7134.jpg" width="400" /></a>
Above: Due to some severe rust that was beyond "simply removing & polishing" I had to replace the stem. The new stem has a typical wedge nut and a separate bolt for the handlebar clamp. I like this set up much better. However, I do understand that with the longer than usual stem attached to a shorter than usual headset the extra clamp on top of the the Steerer tube "might" be a good idea. <br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjpa0vpSTUG7U4ac4qktzzYpBHvrt_5KXK8Ogio-OVuUoIG78YT1ZhyBivMcTviMRS0kADLuITRneD8vU2FlYMxWQOv92KBQcpeghgvJDVsGWbq6rHmjCoWnnSKctJi2z0P25scjff-Vww/s1600/DSCF7125.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjpa0vpSTUG7U4ac4qktzzYpBHvrt_5KXK8Ogio-OVuUoIG78YT1ZhyBivMcTviMRS0kADLuITRneD8vU2FlYMxWQOv92KBQcpeghgvJDVsGWbq6rHmjCoWnnSKctJi2z0P25scjff-Vww/s400/DSCF7125.jpg" width="400" /></a>
Above: This part is for the newer folks :) Not all stems are the same diameter (or height) so take your measurements carefully. Then measure them again. <br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj_IuZbEpGl8WSBGXwyRFCQh-pG2prghJ3N3I70GUnzQg14rJOButlqRwukQcYv9SWmooDQOer_JYaXSeX4IQXNDxVtT6EBDazo5v1JoFYrkhQDVpnTgYGehwRbMZ57EsVO09uBxg9PGho/s1600/DSCF7135.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj_IuZbEpGl8WSBGXwyRFCQh-pG2prghJ3N3I70GUnzQg14rJOButlqRwukQcYv9SWmooDQOer_JYaXSeX4IQXNDxVtT6EBDazo5v1JoFYrkhQDVpnTgYGehwRbMZ57EsVO09uBxg9PGho/s400/DSCF7135.jpg" width="400" /></a>
Above: The original handlebars were also rusted too badly to be saved. I replaced them with these <a category="sports & outdoors" href="http://www.blogger.com/blogger.g?blogID=4155039544820521548" type="amzn"> Wald Handlebars </a> which are very affordable. <br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgGXCORnivVGIFZ4tdnb6Hb7lTrwnaFVPNJijpMeRzsZ07_Ak5W7JfeKM3gnRodGk6NjTpswJnxKtaRI2MQR9QMN9qMl8c-ohThaV7f0PK9hblYIJMdAr6jKXuNsxWd5IFshuDqttNvezM/s1600/DSCF7090.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgGXCORnivVGIFZ4tdnb6Hb7lTrwnaFVPNJijpMeRzsZ07_Ak5W7JfeKM3gnRodGk6NjTpswJnxKtaRI2MQR9QMN9qMl8c-ohThaV7f0PK9hblYIJMdAr6jKXuNsxWd5IFshuDqttNvezM/s400/DSCF7090.jpg" width="400" /></a>
Above: Another quirky or interesting thing about the little Kalkhoff is this 2 piece crank. The left side crank arm is a typical cotter type. While the drive side arm, chain-ring and bracket spline are all one unit. I do nor recall running across one of these before. This unit cleaned up fairly easily using the <a category="tools & hardware" href="http://www.blogger.com/blogger.g?blogID=4155039544820521548" type="amzn"> fine brass wheel brush </a> and a brass detail brush for rust removal. Then I polished it all up using <a category="automotive" href="http://www.blogger.com/blogger.g?blogID=4155039544820521548" type="amzn"> Turtle Wax Chrome Polish & Rust Remover</a>. <br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgNon6oqcuvRK3wncRBRXpKfsTQ-7ve3ke_XZv759LT-b6oD5zGgGwUL82Mxc9gKiDq0sVgyGl9w64fRKMqOxTi_1UY6In9q-EFe3wT32k8i2cIRSQbiMfoZoiecGhJSyyWQZX89386MX0/s1600/DSCF7089.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgNon6oqcuvRK3wncRBRXpKfsTQ-7ve3ke_XZv759LT-b6oD5zGgGwUL82Mxc9gKiDq0sVgyGl9w64fRKMqOxTi_1UY6In9q-EFe3wT32k8i2cIRSQbiMfoZoiecGhJSyyWQZX89386MX0/s400/DSCF7089.jpg" width="400" /></a>
Above: This pic shows how the outer race and cap are incorporated into one unit with the bracket spindle and the crank and drive side arm. Much easier to install than a one piece crank, that's for sure. For what it is, I think this 2 piece crank is really cool. <br />
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Above: Here I have cleaned up the inner races (which are in really fine shape) and repacked and installed the crank or bracket bearings. Looking at this bearing cartridge in place I was thinking "THIS does not look right at all". I was wrong, it went back together just fine. <br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiFZst7fwnrIj_BHg-XYm1EDoSjaQiaOI99fWzIJTGltNACb_VF6EgmpP42MeMHzWFrcqOoW1aBINrKB6z_f-h7D-BFMmI5eos-MxePuf3hBT-Rg7C05lSXeapxjzHuSSsnfrlFNIXsiXk/s1600/DSCF7095.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiFZst7fwnrIj_BHg-XYm1EDoSjaQiaOI99fWzIJTGltNACb_VF6EgmpP42MeMHzWFrcqOoW1aBINrKB6z_f-h7D-BFMmI5eos-MxePuf3hBT-Rg7C05lSXeapxjzHuSSsnfrlFNIXsiXk/s400/DSCF7095.jpg" width="400" /></a>
Above: This looks a little "smudged up" from my greasy fingers. The crank is actually very bright and shiny!<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjzMutNUyrJsHW_0VS8P23dNrQVO46Qk4WwH-OxdnDpUHygNdH__m1nn-1xsp0Ptdc4lqkIYeHI3cQPX_ujke57Dd9vcETzthMb9WttMdFOw_n12JPOEU3182URVgOynaj9DiYEN_n8Hpg/s1600/DSCF1940.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjzMutNUyrJsHW_0VS8P23dNrQVO46Qk4WwH-OxdnDpUHygNdH__m1nn-1xsp0Ptdc4lqkIYeHI3cQPX_ujke57Dd9vcETzthMb9WttMdFOw_n12JPOEU3182URVgOynaj9DiYEN_n8Hpg/s400/DSCF1940.jpg" width="400" /></a>
Above: Yours Truly On vacation "Up North" a few years ago. Next time I will pick up this restoration with the mudguards, wheels, rim strips, tires etc. etc. Until Next Time Please RIDE SAFE and Remember to Always......RESCUE, RESTORE & RECYCLE!.......................................... Cheers, Hugh <br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi7lPc1ybk-DulyMztfqjpUfYYiHH6PIWsRIrhpkla31T2yPzEyJJxp-jV79Ytey-r4PWw80GD6Mg65aUFU4AZcAIeaFA-SSWXgAzxyYW-BqztrJ7pyvmSMBIOM4rlLSc2sZXhU1WVrd0U/s1600/2013+Db+cobra+mountain+bike.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="372" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi7lPc1ybk-DulyMztfqjpUfYYiHH6PIWsRIrhpkla31T2yPzEyJJxp-jV79Ytey-r4PWw80GD6Mg65aUFU4AZcAIeaFA-SSWXgAzxyYW-BqztrJ7pyvmSMBIOM4rlLSc2sZXhU1WVrd0U/s400/2013+Db+cobra+mountain+bike.jpg" width="400" /></a>
Thanks again to those of you who have been checking out "Hugh's Online Bike Shop". Recently I added some smaller bikes like this <a type="amzn" category="sports & outdoors"> 2013 Diamondback Cobra 24inch Mountain Bike</a>. I have also added some even smaller tyke and kids bikes as well. If you see something that is not in the store let me know (via comment) and I will do my best to get it in there. The Link to "Hugh's Online Bike Shop" is in the upper right column just below the Members/Followers.
Cheers, Hugh
Unknownnoreply@blogger.com11tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4155039544820521548.post-37745753117854121182013-02-06T21:50:00.001-05:002013-05-10T14:18:43.873-04:00Updates: Diamondback 29'er / L.L.Bean BikeHello and Welcome,
The weather has been pretty bad this past week. Fortunately I did manage to get in a second ride on the 29'er before the arctic front arrived. I wanted to see how it felt with the new Ergon Grips combined with the clip-less pedals and the W.T.B. saddle.
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg5gTsQwRVVBXzi87zNAL9y34BPrw_qs6EygnE3_-TPSxhCbGM6squy0RlXAx3mJ84YWVveNJeffG61w5Whh9Bjc49j2nfOa7TBo15jgRTyauoQRjmwp7oKyIylbX8K2T1jc_Q99fdWqIU/s1600/DSCF6947.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear:left; float:left;margin-right:1em; margin-bottom:1em"><img border="0" height="300" width="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg5gTsQwRVVBXzi87zNAL9y34BPrw_qs6EygnE3_-TPSxhCbGM6squy0RlXAx3mJ84YWVveNJeffG61w5Whh9Bjc49j2nfOa7TBo15jgRTyauoQRjmwp7oKyIylbX8K2T1jc_Q99fdWqIU/s400/DSCF6947.jpg" /></a></div>
Above: The <a type="amzn" category="sports & outdoors"> Ergon P-1 grips </a> combined with the WTB "Speed V Comp" saddle make for a very comfortable ride. Although the second ride was 6 X longer than the first, I felt absolutely no discomfort in the palms of my hands. I have suddenly become a big fan of these Ergon brand grips. For more aggressive riding Ergon also offers this style grip with integrated bar ends.
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On the first ride I tried out the stock Diamondback saddle. Even though I was wearing my <a type="amzn" category="sports & outdoors"> Canari Cycling Shorts </a> (padded) under my Adidas long pants, the DB saddle was still somewhat uncomfortable. On the second ride I was not wearing the padded shorts underneath, but with the <a type="amzn" category="sports & outdoors"> WTB Speed V Comp Saddle </a> they were not needed. On a longer ride I would have surely worn them. But for six or seven miles they were hardly necessary. I still have to adjust the WTB saddle a wee bit, it is about 95% good now.
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Above: For the wedge bag I chose this detachable small <a type="amzn" category="sports & outdoors"> Topeak Wedge Pack II <a/>. It has just enough room for my <a type="amzn" category="sports & outdoors"> Topeak Alien II multi-tool </a>, a small <a type="amzn" category="sports & outdoors">patch kit </a> and my keys. And I imagine a few Allen wrenches or other small items. One thing I read in the reviews sealed the deal. A rider had mentioned how snug the tail light strap was. They stated that even after some pretty rough terrain the taillight stayed in place. This is a problem I have encountered in the past. And I had not really thought of it until I read the review. So read those reviews! they can be very helpful :)
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Above: I also installed this very basic and affordable <a type="amzn" category="sports & outdoors"> ZeFal Light Set </a>. I do not ride in the dark, so I use them on flash as more of a "to be seen" light set. The set retails for around $20.00 (less on sale). And you can use rechargeable AAA batteries, but those you will have to purchase yourself. The light set does come with a set of non rechargeable AAA batteries.
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Above: After installing my used (and somewhat battered) set of <a type="amzn" category="sports & outdoors"> Shimano PD-520L clip-less pedals </a> on the Diamondback, I noticed they looked a little rough. So I went ahead and ordered a bright and shiny new set for the 29'er. Which by the way came with a spare set of cleats that I can save for when mine wear out. This way I can have the same pedals on my road bike (which will probably be the L.L. Bean bike this year) and my off road bike with no need to swap pedals or shoes. That will be sweet!
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Above: I ordered the white <a type="amzn" category="sports & outdoors"> ZeFal Bottle Cages </a> because I thought they would look good on the glossy Black frame with white trim. Oh yeah, and because they are affordable too. I am very pleased with the way they look. My <a type="amzn" category="sports & outdoors"> Nalgene Water Bottle </a> fits in these cages nice and snug. Although I may loose one on "really rough terrain" where a camel back type system would undoubtedly be much better.
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Above: Other than having to re-adjust the saddle and wedge bag position the 29'er is ready to go. Moving the saddle way back made it easier to install the wedge bag & bracket. Now all I need is some weather. If it hits around 50 degrees F (and it`s not raining) I`m out of here.
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Above: The L.L. Bean bike as it looked the last time I talked about it on the blog. Once I switched the <a type="amzn" category="sports & outdoors"> handlebars </a>
I liked the look so much I decided to go ahead and order the <a type="amzn" category="sports & outdoors"> "Velo Orange" hammered mudguards (fenders)</a> for the L.L. Bean. My biggest concern was, would I be able to fit these fenders on this Multi Terrain frame which now has much smaller tires and narrow rims? My thinking is... if not I will promptly remove them and use them on another project this summer.
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Above: What I feared would happen, has happened. The standard L bracket that connects the mud guard or fender to the fork crown (via the brake caliper mount hole) is too short. So that should not be a huge problem I`ll just order a longer one. I am sure this problem is fairly common and I should not have any trouble finding a longer one.
Wrong again! I was unable to find a longer L bracket. They all looked exactly like the one I already have.
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Above: What I ended up doing was making a longer L bracket out of an extra "rear rack" mounting slide bracket. Basically I flattened it out on the anvil part of my <a type="amzn" category="tools & hardware">Wilton 11104 Bench Vise </a> using the stricking end of my <a type="amzn" category="tools & hardware"> ball pein hammer </a> and cut it off using a hacksaw just past the slot. Then rounded of the edges off using a file. I then added an extra mounting hole in the top of the mud guard for strength using the <a type="amzn" category="tools & hardware">DEWALT DWD112 3/8 drill</a>. When reinstalling the mudguard I relocated the L bracket to the rear of the crown. This is where it should have been in the first place, but the inset nut would not work with the original L bracket. This time I replaced the mounting bolt and nut with one that uses a typical washer and nut.
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Above: A view of the new L bracket from the backside of the fork crown. I bent the L bracket using the ball pien hammer and the straight edge of the anvil surface on the bench vise. I used the original L bracket to match the angle on the new one.
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Above: Once I am satisfied with the position or fit of the front mudguard I can now mark the struts with a Sharpie (marker) just past the collar clamp. Then I will remove "just the strut" and go make the cuts and re-install the wrap around strut. Of course I will need to remove the (quick release) front wheel to remove the strut.
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Above: The struts have been trimmed (<a type="amzn" category="tools & hardware">hack-saw</a>) and the installation now has a nice clean / professional look to it. You may have noticed the crown mounted cable hanger is now gone. When I made the switch to road bars the brake cable routing / hook-up longer worked or looked correct. I will talk about that latter on. I have the strut mount clamps facing upwards away from the axle nut. This is just my preference I do not think it really matters (facing up or down) as long as the axle nut or skewer is not in the way.
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Above: To simplify the installation of the rear mudguard I will remove the rear rack and the wheel. I am sure this rack is not going to work with the new look I have envisioned for the L.L. Bean bike. Note: As of 3 21 2013 the <a type="amzn" category="sports & outdoors"> Pletscher Style rack </a> is $17.86 US The Genuine <a type="amzn" category="sports & outdoors"> Pletscher CS Rack </a> is $41.99 US. Since this is a Multi-terrain Bike rebuilt to look like an old touring bike.. It makes sense to go with the "less expensive" saddle, rack, tires & tool bag, etc. etc.
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Above: The mounting bracket for the rear mudguard is just the right length. Looking at this pic I think I should have cut a slot in the mudguard and run the bracket up though the inside or underside of the mudguard. After all the trouble I had with the front bracket my heart just wasn't in it. I think if I were to mark it carefully with a Sharpie then drill a small hole at each end of the mark, I could then make a cut between the two with a small cutting wheel on the rotary tool. I may try this yet. If I do I'll be sure to do an updated post about it. The only real problem is a huge gap at the front chain stay brace. This is where the lower front of the rear mud guard connects to the frame.
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Above: Although it is hidden somewhat by the chain-rings (crank) and <a type="amzn" category="sports & outdoors"> front derailleur</a>, here the gap is really noticeable up close. I have marked it on the picture you may want to blow up the pic to see it. But fortunately this gap is a fairly easy fix.
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Above: Here I have added a spacer between the outer fender and the threaded frame brace mudguard mounting hole. I did also add a few washers after this pic was taken to get it just right.
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Above: Just like the front mudguard I do not trim the struts until I am sure I have the mudguard positioned exactly where I want it.
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Above: Here the rear struts (A) have been trimmed. I had this "Pletscher Style" style rack (B) hanging around doing nothing. Which by the way fits in perfectly with the direction this project has taken. I have been saving this vintage (not a reproduction) water bottle cage (C) for just such a project. I also had this stem mount drop cable hanger (D) in stock. Which is perfect for changing over the brake cable routing and hook-up to a more road bike set-up. It all started with changing the handlebars. Since then I have envisioned a "vintage style" touring bike look for the L.L. Bean. But I still have a few more changes and accessories to go yet.
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Above: While there is nothing wrong with the way the cantilever brakes are hooked-up, and they are working just fine..... They do not fit the look I am now after. I know I have some road bike straddle cables and hangers around the shop. I just need to locate them and then clean up the hangers to make the changes.
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Above: I installed these salvaged pulley type cable hangers (A) and hooked them up to these road bike style (B) straddle cables . This is really much closer to the "vintage touring bike" look I am after here. If you think there is nothing retro about this style brake, Browse through "The Golden Age Of Hand Built Bicycles". You will find many innovations (including cantilever brakes ) that have been around since long before I was born in mid 1950's. A truly amazing book :) P.S. I have since repositioned the crown race seal.
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Above: Another accessory I really wanted "to continue with the vintage touring look" was a front rack. I would love to have installed a minimal vintage style <a type="amzn" category="sports & outdoors"> Nitto M 12 front rack </a>. But it was not in the budget. So I settled for this <a type="amzn" category="sports & outdoors"> Sun-Lite front rack </a> which was about 14 bucks delivered. Damn sweet looking little rack for $14.00 US. It was common to mount the headlamp as far forward as possible on the front mudguard. This was to make room for luggage. Another method is to mount a light on the underside of the rack. In my opinion the latter would work best on this bike otherwise I would probably have to ad another strut. Recently I read somewhere that mounting the headlamp on the lower fork is not a good idea.
According to the author it casts too many shadows. So for better light, higher is better.
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Above: The next thing "well actually the next 3 things" I really want to change are the black seat post and the black easy adjust seat post clamp and the saddle. This is all "Mountain Bike Stuff" and needs to go. On the post I got lucky, I had a salvaged micro adjust on on hand that fits really good. Same with the black easy adjust seat post clamp I had a newer salvaged Aluminum one on hand. As for the saddle, to get what I wanted I had to spend some cash. I wanted brown leather and springs. A new Brooks was out of the question I needed to keep this as far under 100 bucks as I could...
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhHVTCl_So5-nvDQcpGrxgRKHd7BozwfUVihKPyl-Xd2kgLB2weMu3DojzSuL90m_7DfK_jqzb51JNkg8a6w8bYKnNNXxvk-eR7tTOomiR-71yA6UveFtmtSlKP55g1qOJI08mfVKNsnlg/s1600/DSCF6980.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear:left; float:left;margin-right:1em; margin-bottom:1em"><img border="0" height="300" width="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhHVTCl_So5-nvDQcpGrxgRKHd7BozwfUVihKPyl-Xd2kgLB2weMu3DojzSuL90m_7DfK_jqzb51JNkg8a6w8bYKnNNXxvk-eR7tTOomiR-71yA6UveFtmtSlKP55g1qOJI08mfVKNsnlg/s400/DSCF6980.jpg" /></a></div>
Above: The <a type="amzn" category="sports & outdoors"> "Velo Orange" Mod 5 tour sprung saddle </a> was 84.32 delivered. However the clamp (11.99) was free. The post (13.62) was also free. With an estimated 5.00 shipping I saved 30.61 on those two items alone. This is how I justify spending 84.32 for the saddle. Hey, It works for me.....ltms..... As one of the saddle reviewers stated, The nuts that attach the springs have no lock washers or thread lock. That will cost me about a dime to fix. I think I can suffer through that. Looks like this is going to be another bike I will have to keep for myself. At least for a while :)
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The L.L. Bean is pretty much finished (again) There are just a few more details I need to take care of. Today after a lengthy search I finally located a tool bag that I think is both stylish and reasonably priced. I also have to apply some graphics on the top tube and locate a suitable light set. The lights are also taking a while to locate. My idea is to mount the headlamp on the underside of the front rack. This hopefully will keep the headlamp out of the way of any thing that might be strapped onto the front rack. I have not given any thought to the taillight at all.
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Above: This is the $22.49 Banjo Brothers minne haha tool bag. I was looking for something in canvas with leather straps. My first choice would have been off white canvas (like a mason's tool bag) but for $22.49 the black looks just fine. I now offer this bag in Hughs Online Bike Shop. (Powered by Amazon.com)
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Above: My first bike with real custom graphic's. I found these nice folks "Cesar & Dawn Diaz" while surfing the net for decals. The business is called "Stickers by Design". I told them if I like the product I would send them some business. So tell them Hugh sent you! Here is the URL http://www.stickersbydesign.com/ you can link to their Etsy store from there. The prices are very reasonable so lets give these good people some business!
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjPg5jpUqHdkl7cXUM_IPXV-wNt6veg-9bKnBl6W-bRJDXiHMn3uYyo6rT8fKku_df8SSfUA8I-_ukfZMBsWDY-ZyKoelwWDR6gUZWla-UEMKWFi4vMtzTkkQeSUlkVAXlMkP1QNglcDyA/s1600/DSCF6998.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear:left; float:left;margin-right:1em; margin-bottom:1em"><img border="0" height="300" width="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjPg5jpUqHdkl7cXUM_IPXV-wNt6veg-9bKnBl6W-bRJDXiHMn3uYyo6rT8fKku_df8SSfUA8I-_ukfZMBsWDY-ZyKoelwWDR6gUZWla-UEMKWFi4vMtzTkkQeSUlkVAXlMkP1QNglcDyA/s400/DSCF6998.jpg" /></a></div>
Above: Here is a close up for you folks who are viewing this on a smaller device. These are good quality vinyl stickers. They appear to be the same as the graphics I had on my truck(s) when I was a mason contractor. And those held-up really well.
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Above: A look back at where we started this project. One of the original wheels is on the floor (blue arrow). In this pic I was seeing if my old 700 wheel set would fit. You can see how big the gap was between the front wheel and the front fork crown. It is a miracle the mud guards fit as well as they did. The Bicycle Gods were watching over me again. I will include a few more pics in a future post showing the tool bag and lights. That my friends about wraps it up for this post. Until Next Time... PLEASE Ride Safe.... and Remember to Always...RESCUE, RESTORE & RECYCLE!!!
Cheers, Hugh
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Thanks again to those who have been checking out "Hugh's Online Bike Shop". I will try to make sure that all the new stuff in future projects is available in the store. If you see something that is not in the store let me know (via comment) and I will do my best to get it in there. The Link to the Store is in the upper right column just below the Members/Followers.
Cheers, Hugh
Unknownnoreply@blogger.com8tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4155039544820521548.post-76931493390941382652013-01-23T01:05:00.000-05:002013-03-17T22:18:03.420-04:00Bicycle Repair Tools ReviewHello and Welcome,
During my journey into the world of bicycle repair and restoration I have acquired a few tools. If fate allows me to continue on this journey it is likely that my tool inventory will continue to grow. From time to time I like to share with you what is working well for me. And also what is not working out all that well. And as always "These are Just My Opinions" which when combined with one dollar and twenty five cents will still get you a small coffee at Speedway. Enough mindless babble, lets get started.
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Above: Here are my two <a type="amzn" category="sports & outdoors"> bicycle cable and housing cutters.</a> I was excited when my new Park (blue/black) cable and housing cutters arrived. The Park cutters can also crimp ferrules. They did not cut cable very well originally. On closer inspection I noticed they were a little loose. So I tightened them up a little bit, and all was well "for a while". Eventually they loosened up again so I re-tightened them. This time they did not stay tight very long, maybe a few months or so. And when I went to re-tighten them again it was no longer working as the threads were now stripped. While waiting for the Pedro cable cutters to arrive I forcefully threaded on a smaller nut . And so far it has worked pretty good. Now the Pedro cable cutters, (yellow) they cut cable really great. I am talking about quick, crisp cuts. But being they are still new, I will have to reserve judgement. I will get back to you on a future tool review. As for now, well... when they are both sitting there side by side, I grab the Pedro cutters.
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh8uq1X4xRbTjsELZldvno9SzhgmGtHhLajzl8Ep77O72R4fmihzziA6TkhBV_l4ii9V2qYVvNnVxC3mza6PzuMTal4Yz0VWdiPL8YI-p_88QGfInY3cnbFaDGnrE9XWoQ83933eoKjd_Bm/s1600/DSCF6807.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh8uq1X4xRbTjsELZldvno9SzhgmGtHhLajzl8Ep77O72R4fmihzziA6TkhBV_l4ii9V2qYVvNnVxC3mza6PzuMTal4Yz0VWdiPL8YI-p_88QGfInY3cnbFaDGnrE9XWoQ83933eoKjd_Bm/s400/DSCF6807.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
Above: As for this <a type="amzn" category="sports collectibles">Park Tool 3-Way Wrench</a>, they hit this one out of the park! "pun intended" This little tool is a real time saver, and a handy bring along tool as well. If you work on bikes this is a Must Have tool for sure.
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Above: This <a type="amzn" category="sports & outdoors">Avenir three way wrench</a> is another Must Have tool. I am sure Park Tool makes one of these as well. The Avenir tools tend to be a little cheaper and hold up fairly well.
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Above:I use this <a type="amzn" category="sports & outdoors">Avenir Pro Spoke Wrench Set.</a> If you are still using the multi. size round spoke wrench, Log off now and order a set of these now. I am 100% sure that Park also makes a similar set.
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I resisted purchasing one of these <a type="amzn" category="tools & hardware">Irwin Quick Grip clamps </a> for bicycle work for a long time. But then again I was the kind of guy who drove a stick shift truck while talking on the cell and drinking coffee and eating a doughnut. What is the clamp for?
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Above: If you have ever tried to hold a brake closed with one hand while trying to pull the slack out of a cable and tighten the anchor point with the other hand. Then you can plainly see the advantage of using a clamp. Some use a slide clamp, I like this one for it's one hand operation. Anyway if not a "Must Have" tool it certainly is a "Should Have" tool. The pads on the clamp could be attached a little tighter. But I have been able to work with it without much trouble.
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Above: A complete set of <a type="amzn" category="sports & outdoors">Park Cone Wrenches.</a> A little extravagant? maybe. But worth their weight in gold. These were a gift from my wife who knew I wanted them. But also knows I am way too cheap to ever purchase "the set". Is the full set a must have? Probably not for everyone. But I give them a big thumbs up!
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Above: A <a type="amzn" category="tools & hardware">set of 3/8 drive Allen wrenches</a> which also includes some star and other uncommon types. I do not use these as much as I once did. But for mechanical work in general they are a must have. Very handy for a stuck stem bolt and other tough applications.
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Above: An <a type="amzn" category="tools & hardware">Large adjustable wrench</a> is always a Must Have. Along with one or two normal size adjustable wrenches. A triple Must Have!!! I have said this before, Do not buy a cheap adjustable wrench. The cheap ones are sloppy and will do more damage than good.
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Above: My <a type="amzn" category="sports & outdoors"> Park square taper crank puller / crank arm remover.</a> I have had three different versions of this tool and the Park Tool version is by far the sturdiest. Definitely a Must Have tool!
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhpYGknn340SQ-yli15di6makji9fGGRwlf_1h0XrZM4ftLMzazIbHjV3ks869g33hn_7mZIhE4UC-Jt5Pw0IhbSxyeeH0nG1lt2JXsWK42AQaqweriF27DuYPcep0FSwX2C1mbyw2ClPkx/s1600/DSCF6827.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhpYGknn340SQ-yli15di6makji9fGGRwlf_1h0XrZM4ftLMzazIbHjV3ks869g33hn_7mZIhE4UC-Jt5Pw0IhbSxyeeH0nG1lt2JXsWK42AQaqweriF27DuYPcep0FSwX2C1mbyw2ClPkx/s400/DSCF6827.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
Above: A Sealed or <a type="amzn" category="sports & outdoors">Cartridge type Bottom Bracket removal Park Tool BBT-22 tool.</a> Definitely a Must Have tool. This one is manufactured by Park and is for removing Shimano sealed bottom brackets.
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Above: A <a type="amzn" category="sports & outdoors"> Hozan lock ring tool</a> is an absolute Must Have Tool. A large and small tool is even better. Without a doubt you should have one. Your screw-drivers will thank you :)
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjvGbJ-lwSqlUVEVKWh0-ScdKFbXuyg86QhMmljiyLVG8e4mpmkcIXMzCdINddlYwpxJwvAuJnVPcHVMVZ1AHMa6ZYd_5TEmND4lITHOJZpvjdpU7dhrzAD2mhPNL59xDte3UgyepXypT9_/s1600/DSCF6832.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjvGbJ-lwSqlUVEVKWh0-ScdKFbXuyg86QhMmljiyLVG8e4mpmkcIXMzCdINddlYwpxJwvAuJnVPcHVMVZ1AHMa6ZYd_5TEmND4lITHOJZpvjdpU7dhrzAD2mhPNL59xDte3UgyepXypT9_/s400/DSCF6832.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
The <a type="amzn" category="sports & outdoors">Park Tool spa 2 Spanner </a> is a Must Have tool. This one has round pegs. I need to get another one with square pegs as well. Like the Lock Ring tool this tool is often used to break down old style three piece cranks. This one is made by Park Tool and has held up very well. Which is saying a lot. Because the life of a spanner is no walk in the Park.
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Above: This is a <a type="amzn" category="tools & hardware"> Shimano/Sram cassette removal tool.</a> This particular one is for a Shimano or Sram cassette. A Must Have tool for sure. I am not certain how many different cassette tools there are. But I imagine like Free wheel tools there are several.
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Above: Do not be fooled by the small size. This little <a type="amzn" category="sports & outdoors">Park Tool CT5 Chain Tool</a> is a little work horse. You can feel the the quality of the manufacturing the first time you use it. And by design it does not feel uncomfortable when using it. (unlike every other small chain tool I have ever owned) I have only owned it about 6 or 8 months, but I am sure it will last a long time due to the quality of the construction. This tool is designed for typical 3/32 multi speed chains. It may be possible to use this tool on a larger 1/8th chain but I would not recommended it.
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhJuz3jGE941wLvJpJPNoKSx98yUHZr-div_gvnmmQB6IU6Tg9btFETcMixbrtvc0jV5-Oi6vyV4JyvlihdM0c3dsIMvRTFGHqXfhD9fV97aZPdDAya9FswBdJqxr7LNAzJediye9ox24G3/s1600/DSCF6868.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhJuz3jGE941wLvJpJPNoKSx98yUHZr-div_gvnmmQB6IU6Tg9btFETcMixbrtvc0jV5-Oi6vyV4JyvlihdM0c3dsIMvRTFGHqXfhD9fV97aZPdDAya9FswBdJqxr7LNAzJediye9ox24G3/s400/DSCF6868.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
Above: This <a type="amzn" category="sports & outdoors">Park Tool Screw Type Bicycle Chain Tool - CT-7</a> is also an excellent quality tool. And unlike the smaller one can also be used for the larger 1/8th chains. Due to it`s larger size it is more of a "in shop" tool. All the fixed gear bikes I have built-up or overhauled so far have all had 1/8th chains. And many 3 speeds and single speed bikes have the heavier 1/8th chains as well. So it will get plenty of use. This is also one of the newer tools around the shop. And like the CT-5 I expect it will be around for a long time. It has been my experience that cheap chain tools do not last. After destroying about 3 or 4 cheaper tools in relatively short time it was time to purchase a set of quality Park Tool chain tools.
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Above: I purchased this set of<a type="amzn" category="tools & hardware"> T handle Allen wrench set</a> at one of the better hardware stores in the area. Several companies make good quality T wrenches. Park and Pedro both offer quality T handle Allen wrench sets. Allen wrenches are one of those tools which I like to have access to every type. I have many typical L shaped Allen Wrenches. And the three way quick Allen wrench as well as the T Handle and the Ratchet driven set. There are times when it is helpful to have the type that works best for what you are doing. That certainly doesn't mean I think you should run out and buy all four types at once though.
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Above: <a type="amzn" category="sports & outdoors">Park Tool Free wheel removal tools.</a> Which ones should you buy? Well that depends on what you work on the most. I would suggest you purchase these as needed. I find the Park free wheel removal tools to be of excellent quality. If you get in a rare bike to restore or overhaul, one you won`t likely be seeing again anytime soon. You might just want to pay the 5 bucks and have your local bike shop remove the free wheel for you. This goes for single speed free wheels as well.
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Above: <a type="amzn" category="sports & outdoors">Chain whips</a> are used for removing and installing fixed gear cogs. Also used on free-wheels (tightening) and (removing) cassettes. How often you use these depends on what type of gears you are working with. But when you do need one they are certainly well worth having around. Since the design is so simple some people like to make their own. I don`t think this is a tool you need to spend a lot of money on. I have two reasonably priced Avenir chain whips. I think the best set up would be to have two 3/32 chain whips and one 1/8th chain whip. I am only one chain whip away from the perfect set-up. If you normally have your cogs and freewheels/cassettes removed and replaced at a shop you may not need these at all.
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Above: <a type="amzn" category="sports & outdoors">A Park tool RR12 metric tape measure</a> is an absolute must. I usually use mine to quickly size up a frame, especially if I am searching for a frame for myself. Or if someone calls looking for a particular size bike or frame. It seems silly to rate a tape measure, as they are all pretty much the same. But I will say I have had this Park Tool tape measure for quite awhile and it is holding up fine. You might even say it "measures up" to the competition.
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Above: A <a type="amzn" category="tools & hardware"> The Classics 12-Inch Stainless Steel Ruler with Cork Backing </a> is also a must for measuring parts and hub widths etc etc. This one has a cork underside side so it wont scratch the paint.
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Above: A <a type="amzn" category="tools & hardware">sliding measuring caliper</a> is also a must. I like this one because it can measure both inside and out side diameters. This is a really cheap one and is not all that easy to read. "Some day I will purchase a caliper of a higher caliber". (Try saying that ten times really fast)
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Above: A good <a type="amzn" category="tools & hardware">pair of pliers with a side cutter.</a> For a long time these were my only cable cutters. I actually bought these at an Ace Hardware and they turned out to be better than I expected. The handle covers will loosen up after a while. A little Permatex # 2 Hardening Gasket (in a tube) will fix it. Just squeeze some inside the grip and slide it back on and let dry. To many uses to list. That is why you will find a pair in almost every tool box.
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Above: <a type="amzn" category="tools & hardware"> Needle-nose pliers </a> also a must have tool. And also too many uses to bother listing. Nice for holding small parts while low speed brass wheel brushing. Also found in any well stocked toolbox.
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Above: <a type="amzn" category="tools & hardware"> bull-nose puller nippers.</a> These do come in handy. Example: Trying to cut-off a tight zip-tie without scratching the paint. I just slip this over the little box on the zip tie and cut it right off. You can also crimp cable tips with these. Also good for pulling out small foreign objects from rubber or wood. Maybe not a "must have" but at times a very handy tool to have around. And that's No Bull.
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Above: <a type="amzn" category="sports & outdoors"> Bicycle Alloy Set Tire Levers.</a> Do you know why I do not have any plastic ones? Because eventually, They all broke. So unless you "never tire" of breaking plastic levers, you really should have a set of these.
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Above: The <a type="amzn" category="tools & hardware"> Stanley "Quick Slide Sport" Utility knife.</a> One end a razor knife the other a jack knife. For safety only one end can be opened at one time. Tool-less blade change, but no extra blade storage. But still the best damn work knife I have ever owned. These knives are still available for $18.65 The single blade version is 10.65 CAUTION! When cutting or stripping something with a knife Always cut away from yourself. Someone close to me cut them selves pretty severely about a week after I told them this. And no I did not say "I told you so" But I sure as hell was thinking it. Both of these knives are available in Hugh's Online Bike Shop. Path > bicycle shop tools > page 14
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Above: A good tool for any toolbox. At least one pair of <a type="amzn" category="tools & hardware"> Locking Vice-Grips.</a> These come in several sizes and shapes. I am sure there is at least one design that will suit your needs. A must have tool for sure.
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Above: A good set of ratcheting wrenches. I have filled out my Metric and S.A.E. sets and these are still among my most prized tools. Mine are <a type="amzn" category="tools & hardware"> "Metric Gear Wrench" </a> brand. Craftsman make a really nice set as well. A 100% Must Have tool set.
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Above: The <a type="amzn" category="sports & outdoors"> Topeak JoeBlow Sprint.</a> This is a well designed floor pump with a plunger handle lock down feature, sturdy base and easy to read top mounted air gauge. A few other nice features are it's Presta and Schrader lock-on valve. It also has a lower hook and upper clip for keeping the hose out of the way when not in use. And the rotating yellow arrow indicator on the gauge that makes the gauge even easier to read. And it has good air capacity for quick tire inflations. A good floor pump is a "must have" tool and I highly recommend this one.
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Above: Most people have no idea what this little tool is when I show it to them. This is a <a type="amzn" category="automotive"> Schrader Valve tool.</a> If you have a inner tube with a Schrader valve and it has a slow leak. You might want to check and see if the Schrader valve is loose. Even "with inflation" these are still very affordable. A "should have" tool for sure.
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Above: Probably the most important tool any of us will ever own, our computers. Chances are pretty good if you need some help doing a repair or finding a part. There is someone out there who can help. Some of the best people I have ever met, are people I have never met.
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This post could have gone on forever. But for now it will end. I will continue with power-tools, larger tools and "work and truing" stands in the near future. Until next time, RIDE SAFELY and Remember to Always....RESCUE, RESTORE & RECYCLE!....... Cheers
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Above: 1963 My first bike. Photograph taken in front of my folks house in the old neighborhood 50 years ago. That old bike was in rough shape when I got it, but I loved it just the same.
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Thanks again to those of you who have been using and checking out Hugh's Online Bike Shop.
It is pretty well stocked now, with more to come in the future. If you would like to see it
there is a link in the right column just below the Followers/Members. It doesn't cost anything to look, so please do. Cheers, Hugh
Unknownnoreply@blogger.com10tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4155039544820521548.post-29458177054916236242013-01-16T10:16:00.001-05:002013-05-10T14:16:38.295-04:00Diamondback Overdrive 29'er. A Second LookHello and Welcome,
Just a few months ago I did a Blog Post titled "Searching for the Best Cheap 29'er?". One of the 29'ers that impressed me was the 2012 <a type="amzn" category="sports & outdoors">Diamondback Overdrive</a>.
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The following is the description and what I had to say about the 2012 Diamondback Overdrive 29'er then. The 2012 Diamondback 29er. Brakes <a type="amzn" category="sports & outdoors">Tektro Novela Disc w 6 inch Rotors</a>. (2013 Diamondback Overdrive base model no disc brakes) Shift <a type="amzn" category="sports & outdoors">Sram x4 Trigger</a>. Tires WTB. <a type="amzn" category="sports & outdoors">Front derailleur Shimano</a>. Fork SR SunTour. <a type="amzn" category="sports & outdoors">Rear derailleur Sram</a>. This is a nice "resell able" brand name bike that makes the cut easily. The 549.00 price is a little out of my specified range. If I was going to spend that much money I think this would be a real good choice. If you found it on sale for 500.00 then yes definitely a winner.
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Left: Advertisement introducing the Overdrive 29'ers in 2008. Now I was certainly not in the market for a new <a type="amzn" category="sports & outdoors">29'er Mountain Bike</a>. After all, this was just a favor for a friend and something to blog about. But "what if" I found a NEW 2012 Overdrive 29'er for say about $350
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Above: Me showing-off my Awesome new <a type="amzn" category="sports & outdoors">Cycling Jersey</a> that I received as a gift along with a bag of gourmet coffee (which by the way is excellent) and some really cool stickers from my friends Laura and Brian at "Roos Roast Coffee Roasters" in AnnArbor Mi. Thanks again guys! You Rock!
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhXOBF9yffD9ZwXNA0klz8HktL6WlNf9SzDDRQ5ecJxdn0Ll5UANwpl67Pmg_Q6Kh0aCe4pmjh37Zf-jIGk_g4aZVpa3Ar2bWXO6leBX8E19XE9cE9Ll33BX7he9ZfvuCH9xrvouGwQyqNi/s1600/DSCF6695.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhXOBF9yffD9ZwXNA0klz8HktL6WlNf9SzDDRQ5ecJxdn0Ll5UANwpl67Pmg_Q6Kh0aCe4pmjh37Zf-jIGk_g4aZVpa3Ar2bWXO6leBX8E19XE9cE9Ll33BX7he9ZfvuCH9xrvouGwQyqNi/s400/DSCF6695.jpg" width="400" /></a>
OK back to the story. Well shortly after the BIG Holiday. I found myself with an extra 500.00 . So I decided to go back and take a second look at the Diamondback Overdrive 29er. When I spotted the 2012 Overdrive on sale for a mere 354.00 (m.s.r.p. 600.00) I just could not resist. Even my darling wife thought it was a good idea (and that never happens) Well how could I walk away from this fantastic deal? I couldn't. Here is just one example of why I think this is a really awesome deal. On Oct. 29th 2012 a damaged one of these (including frame damage) was sold on the e bay for 227.50 + 21.42 shipping That is about 106 dollars less than I just paid for this brand spanking new one Still in the box! I hate to say it but.. With the shipping industry being what it is, this was at best "a roll of the dice". Fortunately this box showed up at my front door in near perfect condition. Here's to you Mr UPS Guy! Well done!
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Above: Here I am installing the <a type="amzn" category="sports & outdoors">mtb pedals</a>. For the first ride I thought it best to just go with stock pedals with no toe clips and straps. This will be my first time riding a 29er, so I am going to keep it "as simple as possible". Besides, while we are having a thaw right now, I am not sure if the paved trail will be free of snow and ice once I get back in the woods.
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Above: As always I did apply a wee bit of grease to the pedal threads before threading them in by hand. It is my belief that everything should be screwed or threaded in by hand (for starters) to avoid cross-threading. For now I will install the stock saddle and change it latter if necessary. The assembly (what there is of it) instructions are pretty good. I did have to be sure the tire and brake disc rotation matched when installing the front disc. The front caliper directions show an adapter, but that does not apply to this bike. Which is a good thing, since I could not locate one anywhere in the box or parts bags. Both the disc and caliper bolted into place without a hitch.
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Above: Here I have mounted the front wheel. I left the caliper just loose enough that I could still maneuver it (the caliper) into position while sliding the disc into place between the two pads inside the caliper. Once the wheel is on I can adjust the caliper position using a <a type="amzn" category="tools & hardware">LED Flashlight</a> to make sure the gap between the pads and disc looks good. Once I am satisfied with the caliper position I tighten the mounting bolts. Now I can connect the cable to the caliper. It rubbed a little (disc to pads) when I first spun the wheel. Then I realized they (The Calipers) are self adjusting. After a few good pulls on the brake lever while spinning the wheel the caliper adjusted itself quite nicely. The cable routing and hook up are simple and the directions are pretty clear.
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Now I can trim the brake cable and crimp-on a cable tip. Since I still have handlebar and possibly shifter & lever position adjustments to make, I will not trim the cable too short. For now I will tilt the handlebars close to what looks correct and snug up the clamp. I will take a few wrenches with me on the ride to make final handlebar and saddle adjustments on the spot. I suggest that If you want to re-grease the front wheel bearings you do this before you install the disc. Then wipe off any excess grease and clean any grease off your hands before handling the disc.
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Above: The trail map picture taken in the summer. This is a short trail marked in yellow. I like to ride the outer perimeter (RED) usually 4 or 5 laps. This combined with the ride to and from the park is about 8 or 10 miles depending on the route taken. The first ride went really well. I was able to make all my final adjustments in the parking lot before entering the trail. One part of the trail was very hard slush and snow. The kind of partially melted ice that breaks up under your tires. The bike handled it really well, and so did I for that matter :) It brought back memories of riding through the snow and slush on my paper route as a boy.
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Above: This is what the trail looked like on my last visit. This was obviously before the thaw. This powder was not too deep and would actually have been fairly easy to ride through. That is if you can stand the cold. The soft half frozen ice is tricky because as it breaks under the weight of the tires the bike gets pushed around a bit. Your weight is constantly shifting to adjust. It is sort like riding a unicycle on a bumpy surface.
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Above: Now back at home I will start to make some equipment changes to suit my needs and riding style. I was not able to find a comfortable riding position for the stock saddle. And I was wearing my <a type="amzn" category="sports & outdoors">padded <a type="amzn" category="sports & outdoors"> Canari Cycling Shorts </a> under my long Adidas jogging pants. So I just went ahead and installed the <a type="amzn" category="sports & outdoors"> Speed V Comp Saddle</a>. Nothing fancy, just very comfortable and not bad looking either. And the W.T.B. logo matches the same on the <a type="amzn" category="sports & outdoors">WTB Wolverine 29'er tires</a>. How fitting "Wolverine" tires, and myself only 3/4 of an hour away from the "Big House". Home of the UM Wolverines football team, Go Blue!
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Above: Another change I made right away was to install the clip-less pedals. Now that I feel confident riding the 29'er and I enjoyed it immensely, no sense delaying the inevitable. I have a feeling this is going to be my "main ride" for quite a while.
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Above: I will also be replacing the grips. These just are not wide enough for my large manly hands..ltms.... Seriously, they really are not wide enough. And they need more padding. I will order some phat clamp-ons tomorrow.
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I will also be ordering a new <a type="amzn" category="sports & outdoors">wedge tool bag</a>. I think I will get a detachable bag. Hopefully I will be able to find one similar to my old red Cannondale wedge bag. I really should have kept that one for myself. But it really did look good on that chrome framed Raleigh Teton.
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Above: The <a type="amzn" category="sports & outdoors">suspension fork</a> has dampening adjustment at the top of the fork legs. And rebound adjustment on the lower (bottom) fork legs. This suspension is "no big deal" by today's standards. But should easily handle anything my 56 year old and tired body can throw at it.
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Above: I could not help but notice, that looks like the same rear derailleur I installed on Laura's bike. And I think the shifters and levers are the same as well. AND!! Is that a pie plate I see behind the cassette? Have I lived so long that they have come back into fashion? Cool!! Because I have a boat load of vintage pie plates laying around the shop / garage. UPDATE: The 2012 Diamondback Overdrive is no longer available on Amazon. If they do not sell out, I would imagine the <a category="sports & outdoors" href="http://www.blogger.com/blogger.g?blogID=4155039544820521548" type="amzn"> 2013 Diamondback Overdrive</a> will be marked down after the 2013 holiday season. It might be worth the wait. <br />
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Above: I really do love the new jersey. But Please, take the bloody picture already! How long do you think I can suck in my gut? My God I look like I`m about to fall over...LOL.. Until next time Please RIDE SAFELY and Remember to Always....RESCUE, RESTORE & RECYCLE
Cheers, Hugh
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A sincere Thank You to those of you who have been using or just checking out "Hugh's Online Bike Shop". It is pretty well stocked now and it is getting a little more organized every day. If you have not visited it yet and would like to. The link is in the top right column just below the Followers
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