Hello today I was able to finish the Ross restoration. The
27 inches x 1-1/4 tires and the
27 x 1 inch inner tubes. and also the
cork handlebar tape all arrived Monday. But after working on demolishing and toothing-out block for a large bay door, I was in no condition to finish the bike. Tuesday was even worse and Wednesday was also a tough (and at times a dangerous) day. So with that little project out of the way, today I was able to return to the work I love. First I took the front wheel off and checked it for true. It was fine. I guess I got it right the first time. Now (after installing front tire and wheel) I remove the back wheel. I knew it was still rough. I was pretty much exhausted last time I worked on the wheel. I remembered that I had found an outward dent on the rim. So I put the wheel on the
wheel truing stand and found the dent and marked it with a Sharpie. I then laid the rim on it`s side with a piece of wood under the rim opposite the dent. Then one strike (not too hard) with the
Ball Pein hammer and then back in the truing stand to check, and the dent is gone! Now a little more truing of the wheel, and we are "good to go". Now I can mount the new tire with the new tube on the wheel. Then I put the rear wheel back on the bike. It is now time to tape the handlebars. I like to be in front of the bike wrapping the tape towards myself. First I remove the suicide lever that is in the way. I was taught to overlap the tape at the start and keep it taut. So I don`t use any electrical or clear tape when I start. I know it is not the way other people do it but it was how I was taught as a boy. Before I wrap the bars I place a small piece of handlebar tape on the outside part of the lever housing to hide the clamp. I personally don`t place extra tape on the inside "especially if there are suicide levers". I don`t think there is enough clearance to allow the suicide lever to return smoothly. After the bars are done I add some black and white 3m vinyl trim tape. This will dress up the frame a little, while covering up some flaws at the same time. Then I put my sticker on the cross bar where the Adventurer decals were before I removed them. They were messed up. So I warmed them up with a torch and peeled them off. I don`t recommend using a torch. You might want to use a gun shaped hair dryer. Or a heat-Gun would be even better if you have one. My wife hates it when I borrow her dryer, so I just use the torch. The only thing left to do is install the
wheel reflectors and wipe of the bike with a damp rag. I really like using gum-walls on the old ten speeds. Especially if they have lugged frames. I have found a simple and effective way of getting my greasy fingerprints off the gum-walls. I use
Permatex hand cleaner. The type mechanics use to clean up greasy hands. A little dab of the cleaner on a clean rag works really good. Now the only thing left to do is take it for a test ride. It has been raining all day so tomorrow will be soon enough. And No I am not afraid of riding in the rain, but I live on a dirt rode. And I do not want to carry the bike to the main road. Maybe I am a wuss..lol
Ride Safe and Always Remember to .... "Rescue, Restore & ReCycle"
Hello - I have a 1978 Ross ladies ten speed. I just got it back from the shop and I didn't recall this when I rode it two years ago....but the chain and gears have a definite clicky/clack sound at all times. Is this typical of the older Ross's? Any thoughts would be appreciated!
ReplyDeleteHey Bridget,
ReplyDeleteIt is difficult to say without seeing the bike.
My first guess would be the chain. When a chain
gets dirty or rusty it will bind-up when going through the rear derailleur. If this is the cause a good cleaning and lube should do the trick. It would also be a good idea to clean the derailleurs while you are at it. The cleaner I like to use is "Clean-Streak" it is made by White-Lightning. Follow the directions carefully and use all safety precautions listed on the product. You will also need to lubricate the chain and derailleurs after cleaning. Do not use regular oil. Use a silicone based bicycle lubricant. And use it sparingly and wipe off the excess when finished. Again follow all directions and cautions carefully.
Also if the chain is rusted badly you can purchase a new multi-speed or derailleur chain at Meijer for about 7 dollars. You will need a chain-pin tool to install it though. These can be inexpensive too. But you`ll have to shop around.
Here is a quick tip. When installing a new chain (Schwinn brand) the pin sticks out on the master link. When you install the chain always have the pin pointing out or towards you. This will make it much easier to use the chain tool.
Also inspect your bike carefully checking for loose nuts (including the kick-stand).This should be done often. I hope this info is helpful. Cheers, Hugh