Raleigh Sports / Schwinn La Tour mixte / cotter pin removal

Hello and Welcome. Wintertime, and the live`n ain`t easy. Now I got this song stuck in my head, "Summertime and the Living is Easy". Lately I have been hearing the snowmobiles going by while working in the shop late at night. It`s only  been officially winter for two days, and I am already yearning for spring. In an attempt to embrace winter. I went ice skating in Central Park yesterday. Not THE
"Central Park" This Central Park is in Milford Mi. Only the second time I have been on skates since I quit playing hockey some 30+ years ago. Enough about winter. It`s time to get caught-up on what`s been going on (and not going on) in the shop/garage these past few weeks.

Left: This is the temp in the shop on a cold day, with both heaters going! Not as bad as it looks. I keep the radiant propane heater close to my work area. so where I am working it is probably 50 to 60 degrees F.

Above: I found the correct replacement gum hoods for the Raleigh Technium. But I had to put the Technium project "on hold" for a few weeks or so. Due to some unexpected bicycle work that came in.

Above: This Raleigh Sports 3 speed was selected for restoration by one of the two young ladies that stopped by to look at the 10 or so step-through frame bikes I have in stock. I don`t keep more than one or two finished step-through bikes in stock as they do not sell very well.

Above: The other young lady selected this Schwinn Le Tour "Mixte" These were probably the two best step-through bikes of the bunch. These girls knew what they were doing.

Above: I decided to start with the Raleigh. I`m not a huge fan of "Cotter Cranks." I figured it would be best to get it "out of the way" first. Then the rest should be fairly routine. Below is my preferred method of removing cotter-pins.

Above: After removing the nut I sprayed a tiny bit of penetrating oil on the key (both ends)the night before. Then I place the lug-not over the fat end of the pin.
Then carefully position the clamp. This clamp has a groove that helps keep the threaded end of the pin in place. It is still tricky, so take your time getting it positioned properly. Then I apply pressure (as much as I can) Then being winter I add a little heat.

Above: If your shop is well heated this step may not be necessary.If you do heat it up use a low flame, and keep the torch moving. And don`t over-due it. Also only heat up the arm around the bracket not the bracket end. You want the arm to expand, not the bracket. The torch in this pic is not positioned properly. it should be closer and a little bit lower flame. I had the torch in one hand and the camera in the other. Right after I finished warming -up the other side my phone rang. And it broke loose while I was talking to my wife on the phone. So give the heat a little time to work.

Above: This is what a bracket and bearings look like when they have not been serviced in many years. This would not have been savable if it had gone much longer.
As it was, I was not 100% sure I would be able to save it. What you are seeing is a battle between the rust and the grease. Looks like the grease was loosing the battle!

Above; The bracket, bearings and one of the cups all cleaned-up. I used White-Lightning Clean-Streak and a Brass Brush. I also sanded it a little bit with #600 automotive grade sand-paper (only the bracket).

Above: Ready to re-assemble the head-set bottom bracket and crank. The plastic bag contains new head-set bearings. That gets us pretty much caught-up on whats been going on. I will be doing more posts about these two bikes as they progress. If it
is warm enough where you are (or your just really tough) get out and Ride Safely.
Happy Christmas! I hope you have a Wonderful Holiday Season.
Cheers, Hugh

Eddie (the worlds coolest cat)says Remember to RESCUE,RESTORE&RECYCLE