Hello and Welcome, The Raleigh Technium 460 is now finished. The restoration was delayed, oddly enough by another Raleigh restoration. Now that it is "out of the way" lets see where we left off.
Below: The front hub and wheel cleaned-up. The wheel required very little truing, I might have turned (adjusted) 4 or five spokes. None more than a 180 degree turn "tightened or loosened". The rim cleaned-up fairly easily with
Mother`s Mag and Aluminum Polish. The spokes still look a little dull and will probably get sanded (lightly) before I am through. The flanges required a little brushing with a brass detail brush. As did the outer cones and spacers/washers (axle). The axle bearings and cones were an easy re-grease. The grease wiped off easily, which is usually not the case.
Below: The new tires are
Kenda 27 x 1 1/8 90 psi gum wall . I replaced the inner-tubes with new ones with Presta valves. The original tubes were Schrader valve type. So now the hole in the rim is too big. What I do to make the Presta valves work is, I use a old style brake shoe washer. The washer has a smooth side and a sharper cut side. I always keep the smooth side on the tube and the sharp side against the inner rim. I just slip-on the washer before inserting the Presta valve through the rim. Then screw on the retainer ring and I`m all set. Now before you e-mail me about it. I am aware that they make a
Schrader to Presta rim hole adapter adapter collar. I ordered them once and they did not fit. Re-drilling the rim or the inside of the adapter just seems really stupid to me. The adapter is supposed to simplify the problem not complicate it. Another plus to using a washer is, it is a much cleaner look and lighter too. I think the Presta valves give this "American Raleigh" a sleek Euro look. Also the original rim-tape was in excellent condition so it was not replaced.
Below: Here is a nice shot of the
Shimano front derailleur all cleaned up and back on the bike with a new Schwinn chain. I was able to clean-up the pedals with Mother`s and the Christophe Clips with Turtle-Wax chrome cleaner/polish. To clean and soften up the
Christophe leather straps I used ordinary Saddle Soap. It also works wonders on old leather bicycle saddles. The derailleurs also got hooked-up with new Jag-Wire cables nicely trimmed and caped with a crimp-on tip. The original chain is very good quality and will be re-used after a good cleaning.
Below: Here is a shot of the
Shimano rear derailleur all hooked-up. I re-used the clear Shimano cable housings. I cleaned them up using the bio-degradable de greaser. The original housings are not cracked and the cables slide through smoothly. It is easy to tell when they are shot. Just look for any cracking and if the cable does not slide out easily, that indicates there is rust inside the housing. And if that is the case you should replace them for sure. As always I added a few drops of a light oil to the housings before inserting the replacement cables.
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Below: The Stem,
Drop Handlebars and Brake levers all cleaned-up very well with Mother`s.
Fortunately the adhesive used on the original
handlebar cork tape was very easy to remove from the bars, that`s gotta be "a first" for me. I went with the original two-way levers for a couple of reasons. First, people seem to like them. Second I really like the look of this bike and wanted to keep it as original as possible. And I was able to locate the original replacement hoods that have a hole for the suicide lever post.
Also I like to be able to ride with my hands up on the flats and still have easy access to the brakes. The original stem is very nondescript. I wish I had another Classic GB stem to replace it with. However this one is in fine shape, so it will be adequate I guess
Below: The rear
side pull caliper road brake all polished-up (Mother`s) and waiting for the new shoes to arrive. Notice the seat tube clamp. The collar bolt goes through the tops of the seat stays "interesting"...
Below: Here is a shot of the
Shimano brake lever hoods. I wrapped the handlebars with Cinelli "light cork color" tape. Funny thing about the finishing logo tape. Sometimes it sticks and sometimes it does not. So keep the electrical tape close-by.
Below: Some shots of the finished project. Left Click on Image(s) to Enlarge, Left Click Back(<)Button to Return.
So that is the Raleigh USA Technium 460. The Technium bikes from the 1980`s have bonded frames. "Frames made from tubes glued together with epoxy resin" Which means that instead of the tubes being brazed together at the lugs, they are bonded or glued together. I think this is done to allow the frame builder to use mixed metals. I`m not sure if this is because of issues welding different metals together. Or because the epoxy prevents direct contact of two non compatible metals. I am hoping Steve will have something to say about that. And again sorry for the delay. I had a Raleigh "Pursuit" restoration to do for a young lady. Actually it was more like a build. It started with a dingy frame that I had stuck junk wheels and tires on just to be able to move it around. It is quite a transformation. And I can hardly wait to share it with you.
Till next time RIDE SAFE and Remember to Always RESCUE, RESTORE & RECYCLE!
Cheers,Hugh
A Special THANK YOU to those of you have been checking out Hugh's Online Bike Shop. The link to Hugh's Online Bike Shop is located on this page in the right column near the top, just below the followers / members. You probably noticed that I am now adding word links to components, tools and supplies ect. ect. that I mention in my blog posts. Like the Store these links are powered by amazon.com . I am doing this to make it more convenient to purchase things that interest you on the blog. Also if you are new to bicycle work, and you are not sure what I am talking about? You can click on the word link just to see some examples of what I am referring to. I look at this as a positive change and I hope you do too.
Thanks, Hugh
I can't imagine that gluing the tubes in was for reasons of avoiding galvanic corrosion when they had steel and aluminum forced together in many places such as the rims, as well as the screws used in every aluminum component. Gluing does, however, require less skill to get right than brazing. The braze in my Falcon is just fine after 40 years.
ReplyDeleteThanks Steve,
ReplyDelete"Galvanic corrosion" that exactly the term I was looking for! Thanks
I found this on bikeforums.net
T-Mar
09-06-07, 08:40 AM
The 440 was one of the original Technium models, introduced in 1986. Raleigh offered 3 Technium models that year, all with the same frame, but various components. The 440 was the lowest model, costing $250 US, Weight should be about 25 lbs, depending on the exact year/component mix and size.
The first 440/460/480 frames were designed for the avid sports/touring cyclist. Raleigh wanted a light and stiff but efficient and affordable frame. To achieve the weight and stiffness they went with an oversize aluminum main triangle. To keep cost down they used a steel rear triangle. So as not to make the size difference between the main tubes and stays aesthetically displeasing, they limited the main tubes to slightly oversize. Additionally to ensure light weight and resiliency, the main tubes were spec'd using heat treated 6013 aluminum which is thinner and higher strength than the standard 6061. However, this meant the tubes had to be bonded instead of welded. The rear triangle were maded in Japan and assembled to the main frames in the USA. Raleigh liked to claim that the resulting ride was comparable to "Reynolds 531 models, only more comfortable". This is open to argument.
Like most bicycles, some people loved the Techniums, while others did not. And we've all heard the stories of frame failures, though I personally do not have any first hand knowledge. One thing is certain, they were pioneers in hybrid construction and brought affordable aluminum to the masses. In many ways this bicycle was the forerunner of the aluminum/carbon fibre hybrid models that dominate the market to-day. It was the first truly afforadble aluminum (albeit hybrid) bicycle and was one of the trendsetting models that would ultimately lead to the demise of steel as the dominant frame material.
Thanks T-Mar where ever you are.
As I recall, 6013 is not easily weldable, particularly not compared to 6061. 25 pounds was not particularly light weight, not even for many years before that bike was built. The hybrid construction allowed them to use cheaper (heavier) components without the bike suffering from terminal porkiness. The "slightly oversize" tubes were an attempt to make the bike frame still LOOK nice. Not long after, Cannondale decided beefy aluminum tubes looked just fine.
ReplyDeleteThanks Steve,
ReplyDeleteI haven`t weighed this bike yet, but 25 lbs sounds about right. Good news is, due to the frame weight, This bike would be a good candidate for some light weight up-grades.
I did notice during assembly that some of the components seemed "a bit heavy" for what this bike was supposed to be. Seems like Raleigh USA as not ready to fully commit to making this a true light weight. One the other hand. It would seem these bikes were a fairly good starting point. Especially for someone on a budget looking to make some improvements "down the road".
Thanks for the informative reply. As always "good food for thought".
P.S. Spring time has finally arrived here in Michigan. And not a moment too soon!
Cheers
Extra brake levers on flats are nicknamed suicide brakes for good reason. The amount of play in the brake levers make them dangerous. I think its fine to leave them for authenticity but everyone should be aware of the danger.
ReplyDeleteHey Modman,
ReplyDeleteAgreed, This topic comes up often. I always make it a point to inform the new owner that the "suicide levers" are only for slowing down. And that if they want to stop safely they need to use the main levers. And I always mention that "There is a reason they are called suicide levers"
However I would like to mention, that with the wheels "trued" and the brake shoes "set in close" to the rims. The suicide levers will perform much better. It is also important that the levers are mounted in the proper position.
I am NOT saying that they safe. Or that properly set will be good enough for hard breaking. But I am saying that properly set up they will work "better". I find most of the suicide levers that I see are set way to loose to be effective at all.(even for slowing down)
Cheers
Why is the purple area so large? I have that same bike and the purple area on mine isn't half that size...
ReplyDeleteHey Christian,
ReplyDeleteThe purple area on the front of that bike is the head tube. The larger the frame size the longer the head tube. This Raleigh is for someone about 6 ft 6 inches tall. So the head tube is very big or tall.
Cheers
Thanks for the pics. I rode a Raleigh Technium 460 when they were new and loved that bike. There was a lifetime warranty on the frame to reassure those who doubted the glued construction. The left rear dropout broke at the chain stay and Raleigh honored the warranty, but the replacement frame was another model and I hated the thing so much I soon sold it.
ReplyDeleteYeah the head tube on my 460 is about the size of the Raleigh emblem. But anyways, that's a great bike and I'm glad you rescued it.
ReplyDeleteI had this same bike. I head bought it new from a bike shop. When I got my Specialized I sold it for $150. I was a nice bike and it was fast. Up until now I still missed the bike and wish I could have kept it but wifey said I can't buy a new bike until I sold this one.... oh well...too bad.
ReplyDeleteDo you still remember which brake hoods they were specifically? Mine are currently dry rotting and need replacing.
ReplyDeleteI saw a 18spd Technium fo sale at a thrift store for 50 bucks is it worth that
ReplyDeleteDo you know what year Raleigh stop making the technium usa 460
ReplyDelete