Wednesday, December 16, 2009

Fuji "Dynamic 10" rear wheel replacement

Hello and welcome.
Before I continue I would like to wish You and Yours a Happy Holiday Season. And I hope the New Year brings us some relief from this economic recession.

Now about the Fuji. When I restored this bike I was not entirely pleased with the way the rear wheel trued. It still had a bit of a wobble in it. And it just would not adjust out. I decided to go ahead and use it, thinking it was within the bounds of what one would expect of a 30 year old wheel. So the night before last I made one more attempt at truing the wheel. Quick Tip: This one is for the beginner! Ok, you have the wheel mounted on the wheel truing stand. You have adjusted the pins in close to the sides of the rim. You have located the spot on the wheel where the pin rubs the rim. Mark the spot on center with a magic marker. Now check the area for loose spokes. Ok they all seem fine. So now you tighten the one or two spokes on the opposite side of where the pin rubs the rim. Only tighten them a little bit. If the wheel moves in the correct direction, you have no problems.

Now you can tighten or loosen these spokes till the gap is the same on each side of the rim. Again these should be small adjustments. But lets say the wheel does not react when you tighten the spokes on the opposite side of the rub. Check the rim for a dent (usually caused by curbs or pot holes. If there is no dent, try loosening the one or two spokes on the same side of the rub. If the wheel reacts you can now adjust till the gap (between the wheel and the pin) is the same or close on both sides.
Above: If you are going to be doing this kind of work you should have a decent set of spoke wrenches. If none of this works and the wheel is not dented. Take it to a pro for a second opinion. Chances are it may be beyond saving. Ok, back to my wheel/rim. After a second attempt at truing the wheel, I realized that I was either going to accept it, or replace it. Well acceptance is not one of my strong points. So I start rummaging through the salvaged 27inch road bike wheels. Just as I am about to give up, I found one. I gave it a quick spin and it appeared to be pretty true. Also it was the same size and the same chrome finish, although in need of some rust removal. But it had a grind. And when I loosened the cones most of the grind went away, but not all of it. So I removed the skewer, and the Free-Wheel. then the nuts, spacers, cones, & axle and bearings. I left the dust covers in place, as they are hard to find and easily damaged. And yes it does make cleaning out the hub a little tougher but worth the extra effort (in my opinion). Well after some White Lightning Clean Streak and lots of paper towels. The hub is clean and the cups or races are not chewed up. I soaked the axle and races, cups, cones, spacer, washers etc in the cleaner over night. And they came out looking like new. I did decide to replace the bearings though. I had to go to "Cycle Therapy" in Waterford Mi anyway for Jag Wire X Caliper Brake Shoes and cleaner. They had the bearings in stock. I always get a few extras just in case one falls on the floor and disappears. My Shop/Garage floor is like the Bermuda Triangle for ball bearings. Well I salvaged the original 6 Speed Free Wheel (off the original wheel) along with the pie-plate and spoke mount reflector. Also salvaged the original quick release skewer. I put it all together Tuesday afternoon. And Wow does it look original.

And now it is acceptable. And all is well. So it goes.
Until next time please RIDE SAFE and remember to always.... RESCUE, RESTORE & RECYCLE


  1. The worst thing about 27" wheels is trying to resuse the old stuff. Mixing old and new spokes especially make building a straight wheel tough. Life can be hard when you're cheap...


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