A Bottom Bracket Conversion / The Red Fixed Bike / And the Flu / And a New Project too!

Hello and Welcome, Please excuse my absence. I took a little time off to recover from the flu. Because of my procrastination I did not get a Flu shot this year. That turned out to be a big mistake. It started with muscle aches, in my arms for the most part. The next day I had bouts with the chills, I simply could not get warm. The next day I started to feel feverish. And the day after that everything hurt, even my skin hurt. I felt absolutely awful and did not feel like eating much. After about the fifth day I started to feel a little better. I lost 5 lbs in a week, which put me within 4 lbs of my target weight of 185. Not the best way to lose weight, that's for sure. I guess the lesson here is, if you have health problems (and even if you do not) and your doctor tells you to get a Flu shot. You should do so a.s.a.p. I read somewhere that I could still be contagious for 8 days after I felt better. So I kept my distance from everyone and so far it appears to have worked.

Above: The "Cycle Pro" shown with the original old style bottom bracket. When I was ordering the single Pake Track 46 tooth 1/8 Crank for the Cycle Pro. I took note of the size and type of bottom bracket required for the crank installation. It stated I needed a 107 mm to 110 mm square tapered JIS bottom bracket. So I decided to do a search to see what came up.

Above: When I saw the Shimano BB UN55 I thought this is "just the ticket" I can have the correct size and type bracket and a bracket upgrade "all in one". I actually like the old style bottom brackets that I can service and adjust myself. But, The times they are a changing. And I appear to be in the minority once again. I can`t help but wonder are these new bottom brackets really better? Or are they just easier? I mean seriously, you could probably teach a Chimpanzee to install one of these in about 15 minutes. I also noticed that it says in the information "avoid high pressure washing the new bottom bracket". So is it really sealed that much better than the old style? And I can not adjust the tension on the bearings. So basically "what you see, is what you get". I don`t know if I`m gonna like that very much.

Above: Hats off to Shimano for making this so simple. If this set-up makes it so that more people can service their own bottom brackets, well maybe that is reason enough to like them. Between the simple directions and markings on the bracket itself, it would be difficult to screw-up the installation.

Above: These are all the tools needed for the bracket install. Of course you can substitute the Teflon tape for grease if you like. I prefer the tape, as most of the bottom bracket shells I work on are on cheaper bikes. Most have pretty good threading, but some not so good. You will need the Shimano bottom bracket cartridge removal tool. The tool runs about 6.00 to 9.00 dollars US. For personal use, a good one should last you a life time.

Above: Here I am screwing the large piece or "main body" of the bracket into the shell. As always I start threading it in by hand. And I like to go as far as I can that way to avoid cross threading. The proper torque is listed in the instructions. I used the "that feels about right" method. If you have any doubts use a torque wrench. If you have never used a torque wrench before, remember to turn it back to zero when finished. Leaving it set or loaded will screw up the calibration.

Above: Here I am wrapping the smaller piece or "adapter" with Teflon Tape. If the threads feel tight I wrap the tape around the threads once. If the threads feel loose I will wrap the threads two or three times. I have no scientific data to back this up, it`s just the way I like to do it.

Above: This bracket definitely gives the bike a more modern look. I dab a wee bit of grease on the square tapered spline before installing the single crank-set. I have damaged two crank removal tools removing cranks that I know damn well were mounted on non greased splines. So yes "in my opinion" it is important do do this. Same goes for free-wheels and fixed cogs. This method is commonly referred to as "assembly grease".

Above: Here is the PAKE 46 tooth 1/8 Single? Track Crank. Let me keep this simple. I DO NOT LIKE IT! "In my opinion" it is not a true single crank. And although I paid a little more for it, IT is not as straight as the less expensive Tech 9 or the Origin 8 crank I used on the last couple fixed gear bikes. I feel like I was conned, hood-winked, bamboozled! So this is the first and last PAKE crank you will see me use. Enough said about that.(wanna bet)

Above: The PAKE Single? Crank installed. It should have a P.O.S. logo on it instead of a P! Again "my opinion". I tried to leave a bad review, but amazingly the "review thing" was not working. So this will have to do. My rating "Zero Stars" and a T.P.O.S. (T = Total) You should already know what the P.O.S. stands for.

Above: On a happier note, The inner-tubes arrived. So here I am removing the tires from the new wheel-set. I had mounted them to see how they fit and looked, and I`m happy with both. Notice the tire removal levers I am using are not plastic. I had a plastic set but eventually they all broke. So for heavy use, metal levers are the way to go.

Above: The first delivery contained two "Michelin Pro4" tires (65.00 each) instead of the two Michelin inner tubes I ordered.(considerably less than 65.00 each) I e-mailed Niagara Cycle and they got back to me the next day. I told them about the mistake and they sent the tubes along straight away and instructed me on how to print out the prepaid postage to return the tires. I did not like the idea of UPS charging me to come and pick-up the package, especially since they are here all the time anyway. So I dropped the package off at one of their official pick-up points. Our Post Office has a "Fed X" drop off but no "UPS" drop-off. What's up with that anyway?

Above: The tires mounted on the new track wheel set (79.99 + 19.99 shipping) with the new Michelin tubes with threadless Presta valves. I was careful to order the recommended valve stem length for the medium v wheels. I think they are around 55mm.

Above: I ordered a couple of these clamp-on cable hangers. I am always borrowing them off future projects and I knew this is going to catch up with me someday. I also ordered a couple of straddle cable carrier hangers for the same reason. I also have a fork-crown mounted cable hanger I can use, but I think this one will be fine. I also got in some new shoes for the cantilever brakes that this flip flop touring style bike is going to have.

Above: Someone suggested that I turn the lever around on the Schwinn fixed gear bike. I never did, but the idea stuck in my mind. So I `m going to try it out on this bike. See I do listen, sometimes it just takes me a while to warm up to an idea. Don`t be surprised if you see them in a different position when the bike is finished though.

Above: I can`t believe I am still waiting for the saddle I ordered from Focal Price to arrive. I have actually given-up and ordered one locally. So now I am waiting for two! I think The Rolling Stones did a song called "I am waiting" What bicycle restorer / bicycle recycling person can not relate to that? http://youtu.be/s3d6pYW4EPU

Above: This is my first "Tank Bike" restoration, a Roadmaster Star Rider. Here I am just trying to get all the parts together before I actually start to restore any of the components or parts. It arrived with no wheels or front fender and a saddle with no cover and no pedals or chain as well. I found an identical Star Rider for sale on the E Bay. I convinced the seller to sell me the light fixture for the tank and the front fender for his asking price of 45.00 for the whole bike. Plus I pay the shipping. Hopefully it is en route as I type this. I did say I would give his e bay store a good review on my blog if He got it to me asap. Of course that can also go the other way too! That ought to put the fear of God into him...lol. ( And No I do not think I am God, It is just an expression!)

Above: I built and sold this Sprint about two years ago. It came back last week for a tire replacement and some routine maintenance. It was great to hear that the owner has not had any problems with the bike in the two years she has owned it. Anyway it was cool to spend some time checking out the old bike and seeing how well everything had held up. If you like, You can read more about this bike and it`s owner on the face book page.

Above: Removing 50 year old hardened grease lines from a upper headset bearing cup using the "Dremel like" rotary tool with a mini wire wheel brush and super bright mini flashlight. The mini led flashlight, another must have tool that never made it onto the Shop Tools post. I will be doing a big post about the Tank Bike soon. And also more about the fixed gear Cycle pro bike. And I plan to do a post about the top-tube ding repair real soon as well. Also once the saddle arrives, I will post a bunch of pics of the red/black fixed gear bike finished. Until Next time, Please RIDE SAFE and Remember to Always RESCUE,RESTORE & RECYCLE! Cheers,Hugh

Bottom Bracket Conversion American-to-Euro

Hello and Welcome,
I was hesitant for a long time to attempt a "one piece" to "three piece" bottom-bracket conversion. And honestly a few years ago my skill level was probably not up to doing the job. And even if I was ready to attempt one, my tool-box was not.

Above: The infamous Ashtabula One Piece bicycle Crank also know (by some) as The Boat Anchor. For many many years this type of crank has been the standard for entry level bikes in the US. It is still used today, but mostly on single speed retro style bikes.

It bothered me the most that these were used on the Schwinn Continental(ABOVE) and also some of the early (Made in Japan) Schwinn 10 speeds. But especially the Continental. I mean here was the "flag-ship" of the Schwinn Bicycle Co. line sporting Weinmann center-pull brakes, (which by the way were really cool back in the day) and then you look down and see this Gawd Awful Monstrosity of a crank. I am sorry I don`t mean to offend any Schwinn purists. Hey I love them too, But What the Heck were they thinking?

Above: I don`t have a Continental right now so I decided to use this Ross Adventurer. This by the way is the third one of these I have restored. All of them the same color and all with the Ashtabula style crank. OK time to Fast-Forward.

Above: The first order of business is to remove the crank bearing cups. These are pressed in so you have to punch them out. You punch these out from the opposite side, I`m using a large screw-driver. Something with a blunt-end would be better than using a screw-driver. You want to tap them out evenly as possible. So tap a few times then move your driver or punch-out tool directly across from there. Do this top and bottom and side to side if necessary.

Above: Now clean-out the bracket-shell and check for damage or rust. Sand or file off any burs you feel, Do this the same depth as the thickness of the conversion piece. You may want to sand off the paint the same depth as well.Now you are ready to check the bottom bracket conversion kit US to Euro pieces for fit. These are also press-in parts, if they were not you would need to get the bracket shell threaded.

Above: This is the conversion kit I will be using. Notice it is marked L-left and R-right. Before I continue: You probably should have these pressed in at your local bike shop.Installing these without the correct tools it is likely that the kit and or housing will be damaged. Having said that, My next step is to take the kit apart. This particular one has 4 long bolts. Some have only three.

Above: In my case the conversion kit was a little too big to fit my bracket shell. I used my Dremal type rotary tool to grind it till I felt it was workable. Before pressing it into place I check the position of the piece. I do not want to run-into any tubes with any of the four bolts. This kit has arrows on it, I note the position of the arrow when I have the cup-adapter in the correct position. After applying a very light coat of grease inside the bracket-shell where I did the grinding. I am now ready to press in the piece. I start the cup by gently tapping it into place with a plastic head mallet. This is tricky, It has to be flat or going in evenly.I do not want it tilted. This took a few attempts. I only tap it in far enough to hold it in place probably about 1/32nd to 1/16th of an inch.

Above: After experimenting with a Vice with blocks of wood then a Giant C-Clamp with wood blocks I finally came-up with this.

Above: My improvised Bottom Bracket Installation Tool made with a piece of threaded rod two nuts and various size washers. Note: I took this pic after I started tightening the clamp/press. You would never want to tap a piece in this far. For the first side I used a larger washer on the opposite side (bigger than the housing) When I pressed in the second piece I used the brass colored washers on both sides. Making sure that the bolt holes lined-up first. I was fortunate to have the correct size brass washers on hand. They actually fit in the adapters inset perfectly. And being brass they are less likely to do any damage. They were in with some of my Dads tools I inherited. I guess Dad liked to hang onto any part he thought could be useful on some future project as well.

Above: After pressing in the first side I noticed one of the "excess' tubes inside the bracket shell was partially blocking one of the bolt holes. I managed to grind it down with my "Dremel like" tool. Funny thing, When I first got the Dremal like tool I thought to myself "This thing is going to be useless". Wow was I wrong about that, it really saved me on this installation.

Above: A top view of the second piece being clamp/pressed into place. To tighten the press, I just hold a wrench on the back-side nut and tighten the front nut with a another wrench. A Gearwrench works best for this part.

Above: Obviously with all the grinding and sanding going on I had to keep cleaning out the bracket shell. You certainly do not want a bunch of metal shavings anywhere near your bearings. I used Simple-Green cleaning wipes to keep the shell clean. Now the bracket conversion is complete. Now I am ready to install a lighter, better-looking and more modern three piece crank set.

Above: While searching the shop/garage I found a Ross Carrera mixte that I had purchased basically for the wheel-set. I eventually used the front wheel on the fixed gear build. I am pleased that the donor bike is also a Ross, I will be able to make some up grades while staying true to the brand. Here I am getting ready to degrease the bottom bracket bearings, cups and spindle. After that I will polish-up and assemble the Road bike crankset.

Above: I start with the drive side wrapping the threads with Teflon tape. This will help prevent creaking and make for a tighter fit. And of course protect the threads from moisture and contaminants. There is absolutely nothing different about this three piece crank install at this point. Except that the threaded cup pieces are now recessed into the conversion pieces a little. They will be a little harder to tighten, but not real difficult.

Above: Now that the drive side cup is in place I will turn the frame around and install the bottom bracket spindle from the left side. I read somewhere that one restorer had trouble at the next point because the bracket shell was not square. This has been in the back of my mind since I started this. Hopefully that will not be the case for me.

Above: The left side went together without a hitch. As always I lightly coated the entire bracket spindle with grease. Then I packed the bearing cartridges with grease. After that I placed the drive side bearing on the longer end of the spindle with the exposed side of the bearings facing outward. Then the left side bearings go on facing me. Next I slide the spindle into place. When the bearings make contact with the outer cup I always twist the spindle a little to make sure the bearings are riding in the cup smoothly. Then I carefully slide the left side cup into position while keeping the spindle in place. After I start screwing the cup into place I stop and wrap the threads with Teflon. Then just tighten until I feel no play or grind. Then screw the lock-ring on to hold everything in place.

Above: As I mentioned before the lock-ring and cups are now recessed a little. So I have to finish tightening it with a screw driver because it is in to far for the lock-ring wrench to work properly. It`s not a big deal, we did them all this way when I was a kid. Before I turn the frame around I will install the left side arm.

Above: For good measure I put a little thread lock on the threads before screwing the retainer nut on tightly using a socket and ratchet. You might find it easier to put the thread-lock on the nut threads.After installing the dust cap it is time to turn the frame around so I can finish this up.

Above: At this point I have polished-up the crank and re-assembled it. It goes on the same way with a little thread-lock on the threads.

A Quick Tip: Use a penny and needle nose pliers to remove and tighten dust caps. I have never found a better way to do this. The cheapest tool I own, it only cost me a penny!

Above: A nice comparison shot. As you can see the old Ashtabula one piece crank on the floor. Anyone want to buy a good boat anchor?

UPDATE: The Above BB Conversion BP American to Euro by Bulletproof can be ordered on Amazon dot com. It will actually come from Niagara Cycle. The cost is about 15.00 US.

Until next time, Please RIDE SAFE and Remember to Always RESCUE, RESTORE & RECYCLE
Cheers,Hugh