Saturday, April 2, 2011

Raleigh Technium 460 Restoration Part 1

Hello and Welcome, My brother-in-law called one day to tell me about this Raleigh he spotted at a Thrift Store 30 miles from here. It sounded promising. I called the store and talked the manager into holding it for me. When I saw it I was excited. What a find! a 1980`s Raleigh Technium 460 in original condition. It was a little grimy and appeared to have been stored for a long time. But over all, it looked great!
Below: The Raleigh Technium 460 as I found it.
Below: The SAKAE SA crank. This is always a good place to start. What is this oily-sticky stuff they sprayed all over bikes in the 1980`s anyway? While it can be a bugger to get off, it does seem to preserve whatever it is sprayed on. The ancient Egyptians would have loved this stuff! "Stuff" was not my first word choice
Below: The Mother`s Mag and Aluminum Polish came through for me again. It it took a few times (on the bad spots) but it cleaned up nicely. It`s funny, this crank does not look like a visually pleasing design when it is taken apart.
Below: When put back together the crank takes on a totally different look.
Below: Now for the Head-Set. As you can see this also has a nice coating of "mystery grease". In all honesty, I should be glad to see it. This grimy coating has preserved many a classic road bike. These parts I sprayed-off with Clean-Streak and used the parts brush to speed-up the process.(off the bike of course) However I still had to touch-up these chrome plated pieces with a brass wheel brush.
Below: This shot shows what a nice job the Clean-Streak does on cleaning up the Head-Set. And yes I did grease the bearings. I just set them on there to keep track of them. I like to make sure the Head-Set bearings (top and bottom) do not get switched. Even if they are identical. I feel they should stay where the were broke-in. Probably not necessary, but that`s the way I do it.
Below: The Head-Set re-assembled and back on the bike. I decided to clean-up the front brake caliper while I was in the neighborhood. I took it apart and polished all the alloy parts with Mother`s. I used the bio-degradable de greaser on the plastic washers and bushings.
Below: I found these ZE' FAL water-bottle cages recently. I really like the simple design and "the look." And it`s a perfect color match for this bike.
Below: The micro-adjust seat-post I believe is original to the bike. The stock saddle was nothing special. And was in rough enough condition to toss. I have often wondered why some of the components (in this case the saddle) on otherwise nice bikes are so crappy. With the saddle it kind of makes sense. I prefer certain saddle
brands and designs. I assume most riders do as well. So why would the manufacturer invest a lot on something that will probably be replaced anyway. Oh by the way, I cleaned up the post with Mother`s.
Below: I really like this Specialized saddle. I`m also ok that is was 40% off! I found it on the clearance table at my LBS. I also like that the colors are right. And I think it looks "cracking" on this bike.
Below; The Sun-Tour free-wheel. I want to touch on this before I close for today.
Before you thread or screw the Free-Wheel back onto the hub. Make sure you lightly grease the threads. If you don`t, it will fuse itself to the hub and you will have a "hell of a time" trying to remove it. On this one, The wheel felt like it was going to fold under the pressure. I ended up servicing it (including the bearings) with the free-wheel in place. And that was a major pain in the A##.
Below: Here is a shot of the Free-Wheel all cleaned -up. It looks like I have a little more work to do on the Pie-Plate and spokes. It is possible to lubricate the freewheel on the hub. I hold the wheel with the Free-Wheel facing up. If you spin the free-wheel you will see a slight gap between the spinning free-wheel and the inner part. I just add a few drops of light oil to the gap while spinning the Free-Wheel. Slightly tilting the wheel will help the oil flow into the gap. Do this maybe 4 or 5 times with just a couple drops of oil. You should feel the free-wheel spin easier as the oil works its way to the free-wheel`s needle bearings. Then wipe off all the excess when finished.
Note: I will be posting a link in the "Video of the Week" section to a video I found titled "Cleaning Lubing and Inspecting." Check-out the nifty trick with the skewer. Very well done!
On that Happy note (: I`m going to wrap it up for today. Until next time RIDE SAFE and remember to Always RESCUE, RESTORE & RECYCLE


  1. That is a spiffy looking bike. I have the same Sakae crank on my '80's Trek. Yours cleaned up beautifully.

    And I have a Specialized saddle just like the one you put on your Raleigh. It's a great saddle for not a lot to it.

  2. Thanks Bill,
    Someone was very careful with this bike. I have not found any noticeable scrapes on the derailleurs, crank or brake-levers.
    Thanks for review of the Specialized saddle. I
    have not tried it out yet. Looking at it at the LBS I thought the same thing. Looks like a very comfortable design for a very minimal sports/ comfort saddle.
    I would like to make this bike my "personal ride" But I`m afraid it`s a little too tall for me. Seems like "that`s always the way" when I find a bike I would love to keep. Thanks again. Cheers

  3. I have one of these bikes. Can you tell me how much it is worth. I am interested in selling it.

  4. Hey Anonymous,
    Not really, prices vary greatly from state to state and even from town to town. The best suggestion I can give you is check craigs-list in your area or the nearest big city. And be real about the condition. A bike fresh out of 25 years of storage is not worth as much as the same bike totally restored to near perfection. To give you an idea, I paid between $20.00 and $30.00 for this one un-restored. Good Luck with your sale.

  5. I just got a similar Raleigh (400) and it has these strange wheels with 'sewn' thing inside. Can I replace them right on this rim with a 700cc tire? There doesnt seem to be a crimp that holds the tire. Or do I need to change the rim?

  6. First are the tires on the bike now 700's or 27 inch. They are not interchangeable. As far as switching from sew up tires to clinchers my best guess would be no. But I would confirm this at your local bike shop. As I do not have the rim here in front of me.

  7. After 6 years in storage, I finally took my Technium 460 to the bike shop to get fixed from a crash that put me in the hospital & rehab for a month. The crash did more damage to me than the bike. They upgraded everything but the cranks and derailleurs. It looks great and rides like a modern bike. However, this past weekend I noticed the cranks were loose and after examination I saw the crankshaft nut with 2 flats that is on the gear side of the assembly looked like it needed tightening. It looked like it was 38mm and the narrowest tool I had were channel-locks. The bottom line is it won't tighten, it seems to be stripped. I don't have a crank puller so I guess I'm limited in what I can do. I'm preparing myself for another large repair bill as I'm guessing if the threads on the frame are stripped and it's not going to be an easy repair. My crank set looks like yours, so any insight into the assembly of the crank would be appreciated.

  8. Hello, i have a Raliegh Sakae Road (racing type) bike with 28.622/700x28 wheels and a six sprocket cassette which slide on individually with spacers. Shimano 14-24 pointed teeth 14-28 would be better. The front has two chainrings 42-52 teeth. I need a new chain and a set of six sprocket wheels for the free running hub.The space between the rear drop slots is 120mm. The gear changing leavers are on the down bar of the frame with six and two positions. I don't expect to get the original type parts, can you suggest an alternative set up, even a new wheel and a more modern type gear block. Sorry i can not be more specific about The Raleigh Sakae model.I live in Wales UK, i think you blog is brilliant just what i needed for help. All the best for now David Hughes.


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