Wednesday, May 18, 2011

The Parliament Rode Bike Restoration Part I

Hello and Welcome, I have started restoring the Parliament ladies road bike. I was excited about the old style front wheel with the wing nuts, So that is where I started. The rim was in fine shape (rust wise) but it did have some small curb dings. When you spin the wheel on the truing stand with the pins screwed in close to the the rim`s side walls (start at about 1/8" out)
*Photograph is from another build. It is being used to show the set-up*
It will rub the pins where the wheel is out of true. If it is a curb ding, it wont make a rub or scraping sound as it passes the pins. It is more like a "ping" sound. Once I have located a curb ding I mark it on center inside and out with a blue Sharpie. Then I remove the wheel from the stand. I use the edge of my work bench top as a brace. With the edge of the bench top inside the rim and under the ding to brace the rim. I hit the mark with my ball-pein hammer.(not too hard) Then check it visually if it looks good (flat)I put it back on the truing stand to check it. If it no longer contacts the pin and the gap looks good I move onto the next one. One day I will have to get a photo of this as it is difficult to explain. But with both hands busy and no room for the tripod I will need to do this when someone is around to take the pictures.

Above and Below: Above photographs of the front wheel finished. I was very careful with the ding repair. This would be a tough wheel to replace. Besides the wing-nut front axle, It also has a unique segmented design on the side walls. Below:The hub and flanges cleaned up beautifully. After the "curb dings" were banged-out the truing was very minor. It spins now with less than a 16th of an inch of wobble. If you left click on the top photograph you can see the segmented design on the side-walls.
Below: The three piece cotter crank and bracket assembly all polished-up and ready to be re-assembled. Luckily I had the correct pins in stock as the originals mushroomed a little on the threads. I probably could have cut-off a little of the threaded post and re-used the original pins if it had been absolutely necessary.
Below: A shot of the Crank back on the bike. It does have some minor pitting, but for circa 1969 I think it looks pretty damn good. Note the heavy scratching on the chain-stay. I think the lime green enamel that I had to darken for the green Raleigh 3 speed might be perfect match. "I should be so lucky"
Below: The first New Brooks saddle I have ever purchased. When this project is finished, it should look "right at home". It was 89.99 US including delivery. I think that`s a great price for a "saddle manufacturer" that many still consider to be "simply the best"
Below: The vintage frame pump is one I had laying around the shop. It is really more of a prop, as it is wore out. I think it is a little too much white anyway. I will attempt to locate a reasonably priced chrome replacement on the e-bay.
Below: The upper and lower (pictured) head-set bearings are really cool. As you can see the crown-race is channeled and the bearings sit in there. Then there is a cup that fits over the top. Then the whole thing fits into the normal cup on the head tube. Kind of an early sealed bearing set-up. Well I think it`s really cool anyway.
Below: Here is the lower head bearings ready to be inserted into the head-tube. Once
this is in the lower head cup the bearings will be very well protected. I call the other "the head cup" because the bearings are already in this cup.
Below: This pic of the top head-set bearings ready to be placed into the upper head tube cup shows why I call these sealed bearings.
Below: A shot of my very basic but effective small parts cleaning station. When these bearings are clean I will store them in the cap (of the white lightning can) to keep them clean (and off the floor) till I need them.
Below: When I am ready to place the individual bearings into the cup or race I have a trick to getting these tiny bearings out of the cap without dropping them all over the floor. I simply dip my finger lightly into the grease tub and then stick my greasy finger into the bearings. It actually works quite well. I try not to get more than three at a time, too many at once gets a little tricky.
Below: Polishing up the stem with Mother`s. I did use the "fine" brass wheel brush to remove some of the "rust staining" on the lower stem. I was careful to not brush above the min. insertion line as it does leave fine scratches in the soft alloy.
Below:I think the new fenders (mud guards) are going to look awesome. It took a little while to find white fenders. I located these on I don`t think it is visible in this pic, But they do have a raised stripe which gives them a more retro style than just being smooth.
Well that`s where I am at right now with the "Custom Built Parliament Made in England" I am having a little trouble with the rear wheel. It appears that the rear axle is badly bent. And I do not have the correct free-wheel removal tool. I did find another old English Sturmey Archer rear wheel in the shop. The hub flanges match. And the pie-plate (also Sturmey Archer England engraved) is real close. Two problems, One the chrome is not quite as good. And two, the wheel is slightly out of round. If I have to use this wheel, I think I can adjust most of that out. So tomorrow I will take the original wheel to my local bike shop and see if they can remove the free-wheel and hopefully they have a replacement axle.
Until Next time, Please Ride Safe and Remember to Always RESCUE, RESTORE & RECYCLE

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