Hello bicycle lovers and welcome.
Why another fixed gear project already? Two reasons really. Reason One. This very inexpensive bike has about the cheapest components you will find anywhere. The best thing about this bike is the lugged frame. To make a decent road bike would require I replace pretty much everything else. Not very fiscally responsible. I would not even come close to breaking even. Reason Two. I already have a single crankset left over from the Thrasher Fixie project. So basically I will need about 1/4 the components I would need to build a multi speed road bike. I think the bike was 25.00 and they reduced the price because it has a very small dent "more of a ding really" in the top tube. Then it turns out it was half off day. So the frame was almost free. How could I not make this bike a single speed or fixed gear bike?
handlebar grips I purchased cheap that I did not use on the Thruster single speed bike . Not to mention the handlebars and a brand new set of pedals. And some other bits that may be useful as well. And I just watched this cool video about painting rims! And I am dying to try that out as well. (if it is warm enough)
single crankset "take off" from the Thruster would fit this frame. It seems to fit ok. So I stripped it down to the frame and cleaned it up and moved the project inside where it is warmer. You would never know it now. But my friends and myself laid brick all winter for years. I can`t believe what a wimp I have become since retiring. Maybe it is just old age.
torch thinking that might help. Then I destroyed this cheap puller (twice) trying to remove the crank.
bottom bracket spindle behind the crank using a cutting disk on my high speed DeWalt drill. Then I opened the bench vise up just wide enough to slip the crank into position. Then with a bolt and a ball pein hammer I was able to punch the remaining piece out the back with one good hit. And I don`t want any comments from anyone who "claims" that they Never had a problem removing one of these! Because... I don`t care! Why? Because that's not skill brother, that,s just good luck.
bottom bracket shell has been cleaned out with the drive side cup cleaned in place. I have cleaned and re packed the bearings with grease. Before installing the bracket axle or spline I will reach in there and smear a little grease on the inside of the drive side cup. Now I am ready to slide the bracket axle into place with the exposed part of the bearings facing outward or into the drive side cup.
Teflon tape. This way the tape will not get messed up as I screw the cup in clock wise. The tape makes a good seal and should prevent any creaking sound caused by poor threading. Now you are seeing why I leave the drive side cup in place if possible. And it is not as tough as you might think to clean the drive side cup while it is in place. Actually it is easier in a way. (With the frame top side up) I spray the inside of the bracket shell then wad some paper towel or rag. Then stuff it in the left side real good. Then I insert my needle nose pliers and push them in and twist the rag while applying pressure. Unless it is a disaster in there you should be able to get it very clean and shiny. Of course you will want to check for scoring or scratches. You can do this with your finger.
spanner to thread the cup in all the way. When you feel the bearings grind stop and back off the cup till it feels free but not loose. As I like to say "No Grind / No Play". Now I am ready to screw the lock ring into place.
Above: As I tighten the lock ring with the lock ring tool, I am careful to hold the cup in place with the spanner. If I do not do this the lock ring can turn the cup and make it all too tight. If this happens, just loosen it up and try again.
threaded headset the first step is to clean up the cups and bearings. Since I am in the house I had these pretty clean before I brought the frame inside. I did smear a little Permatex Hand Cleaner in the cup and the outer surface as well and let it sit a minute. That actually worked really good. But these were not in bad shape to start. Also being indoors
I soaked the bearings in Park citrus chain cleaner. I moved it into the shop while I went for coffee break. I knew the cat would get into it if I did no move it out side. It froze over while I was gone.
White lightning "Clean Streak" would have gotten them. But there is no way on "God's green earth" I`m spraying that stuff in the house.
Above: The Crown race" sits a top the fork crown. (hence the name) It is important to clean this up as well. The lower headset bearing sits on this race with the exposed part of the bearings facing upward into the cup. I lightly sanded this one with some very fine automotive grade sand paper to remove the scratches. The bearings actually roll in the cup. The crown race pretty much just holds the bearings in position. Had the cup been in this condition I would have probably replaced it.
headset bearings is threaded. The race along with the headset washers and cap nut hold the front end of the bike together. The threaded post on top of the fork crown is called the Steerer or Steerer Tube.
Above: Once it is all the way in you can turn it before you thread the top race down to make sure it feels smooth. Of course you have to hold it in position until you have screwed the race down to the bearing cup.
I am looking at the 700mm All Star fixed wheel set. I have measured my drop-outs and have found my rear drop out to be 120mm. My front is a perfect match at 100mm. If I use spacers to make up most of the 10 mm difference in the rear drop out width, will I have enough threaded axle left for my axle nuts? Or can you just tell me the over all length of the rear axle? Thanks Hugh
Yes it will fit with spacers. We've faced that many times. RetroSpec Team
Well it appears that if I can workout the brake caliper length issue I will
be able to order this wheel-set, if I decide to go that way. At first I thought it was a little too expensive. But they include both wheels, both cogs, a lock ring, tires and inner tubes.(Presta valve) It works out about the same, if not cheaper.
center pull brake. Maybe if I re-paint the stem and go with flop and chop bars? Then I could go with a center-pull brake. That might look really cool. Or even do the same with (racing) drop bars.
Mothers Mag and Aluminum Polish" I sanded down the handlebars out doors. I think it will be warm enough to primer the handlebars tomorrow. And we have some incredible weather on the way, I should be able to paint them Wednesday.
Well friends, I think that brings us up to date. Until next time Please RIDE SAFE and Remember to Always RESCUE, RESTORE & RECYCLE!
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