Hello and Welcome, There is so much that is good on this Trek 330 I am having trouble calling it a restoration. So I`ll just call it "making it road ready" plus an intense detail job.
brake lever hoods right away. If I am going to have to replace these hoods or hoods and levers I want to know that right away. As you can see the hoods cleaned up pretty good and this is after one quick cleaning. This is good news, as I really like the look of the original hoods.
chain cleaner with Park citrus cleaner. Afterwards I rinsed out the cleaner and repeated the process. This is a nice chain and I suspect it was part of the last overhaul as it is in beautiful condition. I had also begun to clean up the 6 speed free wheel (rear sprocket group) and the rear derailleur using White Lightning Clean Streak along with my park brushes and some paper towels.
Origin 8 road sport pedals with toe clips for the upcoming Fuji Gran Tourer SE. But this style pedal looked so good on the red and white Centurion I have decided to use them on this bike instead. I`ll worry about the Fuji latter. At this point I will have to remove them to work on the crank. I just wanted to see how they looked on the bike.
Jag Wire brake cables. To remove the adhesive tape residue I sped up the process by using a fine brass wheel brush (Wear Safety Glasses) on the 18 volt rechargeable drill / driver. It was dusty so I set up a fan to blow the debris out the overhead door while I was doing this. I use the fan quite often when doing the dusty work.
Mother's Mag and Aluminum Polish. At this point I had not yet removed the tires to inspect the tubes and remount them with the valve stems centered to the tags or labels. I may have used a fine brass detail brush around a few of the spoke nipples. But that was the full extent of any brushing I did on the front wheel. (a nice change of pace)
Armor All cleaning wipes and touched up with a "real brass" detail brush.
rear derailleur for a proper de greasing and cleaning. I also serviced the hub and cleaned up the free wheel a little better. And I lubricated the free wheel mechanism. I do this by spinning the free wheel by hand (free-wheel facing upwards) and adding a few drops of oil into the gap where the sprocket group spins on the axis of the free wheel unit. Then spin until you feel or hear that the oil has worked it`s may to the needle bearings. Then just wipe off the excess and your free wheel unit is good to go. And always lightly grease the threads prior to installing the free-wheel unit.
front derailleur all de greased, cleaned and polished. I did the front derailleur in place. It is working so perfectly right where it is. And it was not all that dirty to begin with. So why go looking for trouble? If you are having trouble with installing and adjusting your front derailleur, check out the Video Of The Week section in the right side column. I believe "Front Derailleur Adjustment" is right at the top of the list. There is also a video for "Rear Derailleur Adjustment". It takes a bit of practice to become proficient at derailleur adjustment "especially the front derailleur". So do not beat up on yourself if you are having trouble, everyone does at first. As always I did replace the derailleur cables with new Jag Wire shift cables. I lubed both derailleurs with a light spray of Tri Flo.
Charge spoon saddle and some very cool ergo grips on the fixed gear. But we will talk about that latter. I think the saddle looks great on this bike. And it performs well too! As for the original micro adjust seat post, I basically polished it up with Mothers and cleaned up the top black parts with a Armor All cleaning wipe. I also put a very light coat of grease on the lower approximately 1/3 of the post before inserting it into the seat tube.
Shimano road Crankset Sticker (Bio-Pace) is unmolested because cleaned up the Crankset almost looks right off the shelf. I have not serviced the bottom bracket bearings and spindle yet. Only because they are super smooth. But I will do it eventually if for no other reason than just to prove to myself that they do not need it.
How neurotic is that? LTMS
road caliper brakes I did remove them for cleaning. And I also removed the newer shoes for inspection and cleaning. But I did not break the calipers down for cleaning. It just was not necessary. I did however give them a very good cleaning and of course a new set of Jag wire brake cables. And the shoes "are like new" and not hardened in the least. It is refreshing to work on a bike that was so well cared for.
water bottle cages. Now most of you know I do not weigh any parts or components. So I will just say they are very light weight in comparison to the originals.
And the colors fit in perfectly with my "mental picture" I had of this bike when finished.
cork handlebar tape is Phat. I am very comfortable now with taping handlebars in the modern way now. I still use a razor blade to finish buy only to score the tape not cutting all the way through the tape. And I just finish the cut with a single edge razor. For me it works better than scissors. (but my scissors are crap)
wedge bag and for another five dollars a tube repair kit with levers. You can also see the Ze'Fal three mode tail tight I installed.
fixed gear bike with the flip flop hub . This thing is fun to ride. But it is way to small for me to be hanging onto it. I really need to put this bike up for sale soon.