220 grit automotive grade wet sanding paper and the fine brass wheel brush (safety glasses) on the high speed drill. Then to straighten the bottom lip I placed the wavy part of the lip on the inner edge of the outer jaw on my bench vise . Then I gently tapped it straight using a ball peen hammer. To smooth out the flat part or face of the guard I slipped a scrap piece of 1x6 rough sawed cedar with the smooth side facing up in between the front and back of the guard. This gave me a hard smooth surface under the metal to help me hammer out the high spots. Fortunately I have a auto body hammer that is designed specifically for this type of work.
ball pein hammer. On the right is the metal working hammer. I found the bump and paint hammer at a Thrift Shop or Garage Sale. At the time I had no idea what it was for. But it looked like it could be useful, so I bought it for a couple bucks. You can see the over sized striking surface on the metal work hammer. This works really well for flattening out the high spots. The opposite end worked well for tapping out small dings from the underside of the fenders. It was still necessary to use glazing/spot putty on these small dents and dings. However much less filler is used after raising the dent from the underside.
Bondo (actually a brand name)
hardener. I also picked up some plastic filler spreaders while I was there. If I had to guess I would say the mix is about 95 to 98 percent filler and about 2 to 5 percent hardener.
glazing/spot putty. Here it is out side drying. It will be about 20 minutes before I can wet sand it again. Then I will let it dry another 10 minutes (after wiping it dry with a paper towel) before re spraying the primer.
body filler. Thanks to Jeff and Terry for all the great instruction. It was extremely helpful!!
600 grit wet sand paper and wipe it clean before spraying the primer. I will probably have to do one more touch up with the putty after the primer is dry.
PCS 9 Park Tool Work Stand (by the steerer tube) baking in the sun. Here is a Quiz: If a tiny insect lands on your piece while it is drying and gets stuck, what do you do? Answer: Absolutely Nothing! I guarantee, you will do more damage to the paint trying to remove the little bugger than it could ever do. Just leave it alone. And when you wipe it down 72 hrs or so latter, you probably will never be able to tell where it was.
3M Scotch Blue painters tape from the thimble like fork detail. The white you are seeing is not primer that was not painted over. It is glare, the primer coat(s) are flat black.
Brooks Flyer saddle arrived earlier in the week. While some of my face book friends seemed concerned about it, I actually like the black springs and rails. It really gives it that "really old school" look. Before chrome there was Black and Red pin striping or paint detail. I am reminded of something I heard back in my motorcycle days from an old biker. When discussing the latest piece of chrome bling I had just put on my old Iron-head, He simply said... "Chrome won`t get you home". Obviously he knew what a p.o.s. that old AMF Iron-head was...LTMS
handlebar grips that look more like cheap "Old Schwinn" knock offs rather than something that you would use on a vintage Raleigh. I will probably go with cork grips and maybe an old style brass stem mounted bell.