Hello and Welcome, The Raleigh Sports project was interrupted by our badly needed holiday on Mackinac Island. Also when the new bearings arrived the headset bearings were missing. They had been oddly packaged in a folded cardboard folder, and the ends were unsealed. Being these bearings were packaged in a little plastic bag (like a bean bag) I have no doubt they worked their way out through the unsealed flaps during shipping. Enough with excuses, lets get on with it.
Rust-Oleum Professional Enamel.
Testor's Enamel from Tower Hobbies as are the camel hair brushes. The low odor Mineral Spirits should be available at any good Paint Store or Paint Department. The other bottle is glossy black fingernail enamel for touching up any mistakes or scratches. The secret to the gold detail paint is always rest your hand on something when
painting. And avoid caffeine. Doing the pin stripe or detail might not be a good idea after hanging out at Starbucks drinking high octane coffee all morning.
automotive grade wet sand paper about 1 inch by 1&1/2 inch and fold it lengthwise. I will fold this over my finger tip and sand the inside of the cup all the way around then re check.
Teflon tape and scissors at the ready and within reach. I like to get this done in short order while the drive side bearings are still in place. I will avoid bumping into the frame or bracket, I don`t want to knock any of the drive side bearings out of the cup.
bottom bracket axle in place I carefully turn it by hand applying slight pressure. If all the bearings are seated properly it should feel smooth. Now I can let it go (without pulling it out at all) while I grab the left side bearing cup which is all ready to go.
adjustable wrench while tightening the lock ring using my Hozan bottom bracket tool. If I do not do this, the cup is likely to turn and over tighten.
rim strips and mount the tires on the rims with new 26 x 1 3/8 inner-tubes (schrader valve). I have already cleaned up all the fender mount nuts and bolts. This bike has no rear caliper brake which made installing the rear mudguard much easier than normal.
hacksaw. For the clean-up on the pedal frames I used the fine brass wheel brush on the low speed drill. And did the touch-up with a toothbrush size brass detail brush. I polished all the chrome pieces with "Turtle Wax Chrome Polish & Rust Remover". This was done before installing the new blocks of course.
1/8 replacement bicycle chain. And I once thought only single speeds and fixed gear bikes used a 1/8 inch chain.
grade 25 ball bearings. There are 50 ball bearings
in the headset. That makes for a very smooth feel when turning. If you would like to see pics of "yours truly" rebuilding a headset, just enter "re-build headset" in the "Search This blog" feature in the right column on this page. It is located just below The Followers thumbnail images. The cork grips I installed, after the brake levers and shifter of course. I did shorten up the grips using a single edge razor blade. This allowed me to mount the front brake lever in the proper position. To hold the grips firmly in place (after I am sure everything is mounted on the bars correctly) I used Permatex # 2 "hardening" gasket sealer . Do not smear the Permatex on the handlebars. It is much cleaner if you smear it inside the grip. (using surgical gloves) About the same amount a tooth brush will hold should be about right.
knarp to work. My knarps were the wrong shape and would not stay in the pocket. If you are wondering what the #### a knarp is ??? You know the little ball on the lever end of a brake cable? Well a knarp is like that, but it is removable and has an inset screw to secure it. In reality I like the replacement caliper better, It is lighter and takes a modern brake cable. Also the spring on the original caliper was giving me fits. But that was my fault, I took it apart 3 years ago. It took me a while to figure exactly how it attached to the caliper. Definitely nothing like the side-pull calipers I am most familiar with. So this is an upgrade I would have made eventually anyway.
Brooks Millbrook holdall bag and the Brooks Flyer Saddle finish off this bike beautifully. As I mentioned there may be a front wheel and lighting change in the future.
But for now the 1964 Raleigh Sports 3 speed is finished. So here are some more pics of the finished project.
PHX Fogopalypse !
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