Hello and welcome, As for where we left off on the rusty Raleigh Sprite restoration, let's see... I had pretty much finished sanding down the lugged frame for primer at the end of the last post.
Also I had found a replacement for the rust damaged fork. As for the bicycle fenders "and the replacement fork" they were sanded down primed and painted. And I located (in the shop/garage) replacement wheels, side pull brake calipers and derailleurs, all in need of refurbishing. But none the less all a huge improvement over what the bike showed up with. First step, touch up the frame and get it primed for paint.
Above: Once I was sure that I had sanded the frame and removed all the original paint and primer. It is now time to clean the frame and get it ready for primer. I use the mineral spirits (above) on a clean rag or paper towel to carefully clean the frame. Next I need to tape-off anything I do not want primed and painted.
Above: I will use this "Scotch Blue Painters Tape" to tape-off or cover anything I do not want painted. I will use the razor or x acto knife to cut the tape exactly where I want it. It is important to use a good quality tape. You do not want to use a cheap masking tape. Painters tape will work much better "in every way". Meaning it will leave cleaner lines where the tape ends and the new paint starts. Also it will remove easily, not leaving adhesive behind like cheap masking tape will often do. So you will definitely want to use a decent painters tape to mask or tape off your project.
Above: I have tried to show you how I cut along the edge of the head badge by marking this with a dotted line. This is where the "Hobby knife" or X-Acto Knife is a must. This badge is riveted with solid brass rivets. I have more confidence in my taping and cutting skills than I do in my badge rivet removal skills. So "for this time anyway" I will attempt to tape-off the head badge.
Above: Here I have taped-off the bottom bracket shell. I do not want any more paint on the threads. I also taped-off the head set cups. I do not yet own a proper headset cup removal tool. I also taped off the threaded studs on the rear drop outs. (rear fender mount)Now I am ready for primer.
Above: I chose to go with a black sand able primer. The finish paint will be a glossy black Rust Oleum enamel. So with the black primer hopefully any future stone chips will be less visible. You do not want to mix enamel and lacquer so read the paint and primer cans very carefully. If you have any doubts ask questions. Pay particular attention to the humidity information on the can. I only use one brand of paint and that is Rust-Oleum. So I really can not comment on other brands. Two things you want to remember when painting or priming are Always fog coat the paint. In other words do not try to get all the paint on at once. And second Never start or stop spraying directly over the object you are painting. And keep the can moving when spraying. and shake the can well and often. (I`m pretty sure that was more than two things..lol) All the info about preventing and dealing with clogs is printed on the cans, So read it.
Above: If your inexperienced I would recommend you prime and paint the road bike fork first. This way, if you screw it up it is much easier to re prep the fork than to re prep the frame. And be patient. More paint jobs have been ruined by rushing the job than anything else. At least that was my experience as a youth. The re-spray or second coat times will also be listed on the cans. If you are going to open-air paint check the conditions carefully. You do not want to open air paint when the cotton wood seeds are blowing around or the air is filled with insects, ash or blowing leaves. If your in a bad location you may want to build a D.I.Y. paint booth. (See You-tube)
Above: Right after I finished the second coat of paint the cotton wood seeds started blowing around. So I picked-up the Park PCS 9 work stand and all and moved it into the shop to cure for a while. Once it was "dry to the touch" I placed it back outside in the sun to dry some more. I give the paint 72 hours min. to dry before re-assembly. The touring fenders and fork because they were painted first, got much more "curing time" than that.
Above: Here I have begun re assembly. I have tilted the frame to make it easier to keep the free drive-side crank bearings in place while installing the bottom bracket axle. By no means has this paint hardened all the way. So I am extra careful during re assembly not to nick the paint.
Above: Here is the 10 speed double road crankset re assembled and installed with new cotter pins, minus the badly rusted chain ring guard.
Above: New mounting screws and washers (and sanding the fender struts) gives the fender a real fresh look when finished. We (the owner and myself) have decided not to paint the rear fender tip white.
Above: A shot of the front fender mounted. I am very pleased with the way the replacement wheels cleaned -up. Particularly the way the hub flanges match. Although (because of the pie plate) this can only be seen from the left side.
Above: I ran into an unexpected problem with the salvaged replacement brake calipers. They were not quite wide enough to reach around the fenders. So I took the originals apart and polished the arms. Then I used the hardware (post, springs, barrel adjusters etc.) from some salvaged calipers to build new calipers (well sort of) This is cool because now the brakes look original. And for the most part they are.
Above: The re manufactured rear brake caliper looking pretty spiffy if I may say so myself. The only thing I did notice doing this is... The nut behind the acorn nut on the post is wider (thicker) than the original. This makes it so that the acorn nut does nut thread on all the way. I will take the rusty (thinner) original nuts to Peter's hardware for matching replacements. Other than that there was no problem re manufacturing the calipers with the borrowed parts.
Above: The bike is coming along nicely. I have new Kenda gum walls and grips on order which should arrive by early next week. I am working on getting a set of English thread touring pedals. Hopefully I can locate a set that won`t break the bank. If you know of a reasonably priced set on e bay or elsewhere please forward the add.
Above: The rusty Raleigh has come a long way. And it has been a real learning experience for me, That's for sure! I hope to get it wrapped up on the next post. Sorry for the delay. I have been feeling a little "under the weather" Today is the first day I have felt really good in a week or so. So hopefully I`m through with that nonsense for a while. Until next time RIDE SAFE and Remember to always RESCUE, RESTORE & RECYCLE Cheers, Hugh
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