Sunday, April 28, 2013

Fenderbot and Sanding a lot

Hello and Welcome,
Spring is here at last :)  I have been busy cleaning up the front and back lawns and trying to get the shop/garage organized. The weather has been pretty nice as of late. And I have managed to take a few short bike rides. I wanted to do a post about installing the PDW Fenderbot reflector taillight . Somehow I never got around to it, my sincere apologies for that. And I would also like to talk about the performance (or lack there of) of the Fenderbot light.

Above: Let me start by saying I installed this Fenderbot unit for looks. The idea was to build a bike with the classic touring bike look. The Fenderbot was the only new fender mount taillight I could find. It is Not Very Bright and I would not recommend this as your only rear light. When I ride this bike (day or night) I will have a flashing Ze'Fal taillight mounted on one of the seat stays or clipped onto the tool bag.

Above: Save the card the Fenderbot comes mounted on and use it for a template to make you marks for drilling the mount holes in your mudguard or fender. You can also use the template for proper drill bit selection if need be.

Above: Here I have made my marks with a Sharpie for my mount holes. You will need to make sure your holes are high enough so the taillight will clear any strut mounting hardware. After taking a measurement I made sure to cut my template so that the holes would be high enough. This way I could rest the template on the wrap around strut mount when making my marks.

Above: To avoid the bit skirting around damaging the beautiful Velo Orange hammered fender while I am am trying to drill the holes I use a small scratch awl to make an indent in the center of my marks. These indentations will make it much easier to keep the bit "on target" while I am drilling.

Above: Here I am using the template to check my drill bit size.

Above: Fearing the bit might hang up or bind I chose to drill a smaller hole first, then re drill with the finish size. Quite a while back I was re drilling the holes in a rear bicycle rack mount to fit a larger old seat post clamp bolt. I was using a high speed DeWalt 8 amp drill and it bound up. I did not have the piece secured, and when it spun the piece it felt like it damn near took one of my fingers off. Fortunately it just hurt like hell, no real damage done.

Above: This is what the Fenderbot looks like mounted from the inside of the fender. The bottom nut shown is the wrap around strut mount.

Above: The "not so bright" Fenderbot tail light mounted on my Velo Orange hammered rear fender. It's not really hammered, it is more of a hammer effect :)

Above: Here is the L.L. Bean Bike finished. After adding the white piping I realized I had subconsciously built something very much like (in looks anyway) to the Parliament. Eventually I removed the wrench graphic from the fork blade. You may have noticed for the "test ride" I have another taillight clipped onto the Minnehaha Barrel Bag (tool bag).

Above: The Zebrakenko is pretty much ready for primer, just a few tiny hard to reach spots to finish sanding. It has not really been warm and dry enough to paint yet anyway. But now the weather is much better so I will be priming it this week.

I am considering leaving the head and seat post lugs unpainted and polished. I will see how shiny I can get them before I decide. I am really not sure if I should polish the lug with something or just clear coat it. I am open to suggestions. I am thinking about building another classic commuter. Or possibly a fixed gear bike, sort of a "Mixey Fixey"

The mixti frame is by far the most difficult frame I have ever sanded. Nooks and Crannies are fine if your talking about English Muffins. On bicycle frames they are just a pain in the @$$. I will not be sanding another mixtie frame any time soon. I may even look into paint strippers. Although I really do not like using any more chemicals than I absolutely have to.

This is what I hope was the last snow of the season. It did not stick, and within hours was just an unpleasant memory. I did some fast repairs on a new friends Department Store rigid mountain bike. I did not bother with pics although maybe I should have. It was cosmetically "pretty mint". Mechanically "not so good". It did have the old thumb shifters which I consider a plus. Department store twist type grip shifters are always problematic crap anyway.
That is pretty much all I have for now. So until next time, Please Ride Safely! And remember to always..RESCUE, RESTORE and RECYCLE
Cheers, Hugh

The Detroit RedWings have made the playoffs for the 22nd consecutive season! Well Done Boys!
A Special THANK YOU to those of you have been checking out Hugh's Online Bike Shop. The link to Hugh's Online Bike Shop is located on this page in the right column near the top, just below the followers / members. You probably noticed that I am now adding word links to components, tools and supplies ect. ect. that I mention in my blog posts. Like the Store these links are powered by . I am doing this to make it more convenient to purchase things that interest you on the blog. Also if you are new to bicycle work, and you are not sure what I am talking about? You can click on the word link just to see some examples of what I am referring to. I look at this as a positive change and I hope you do too.
Thanks, Hugh

Thursday, April 4, 2013

Zebrakenko Mixte Restoration Part 1

Hello and Welcome
My current project a Zebrakenko Golden Sports Mixte. The original wheel set (or the wheel set it showed up with) is gone, used on another project. I doubt they were original to the bike anyway. They seemed to lack the rust and dirt that covered the rest of the bike.
This is an interesting road bike with one of the better badges I have seen in a while. Unfortunately it has spent some time out in the elements. In fact Angie wanted me to have this bike rather than see it damaged any further. Very admirable in my opinion.

Above: And there it is the 3 D "Lions Head" head-badge. I think my friend and fellow Bike Blogger Ryan from Ryan's Rebuilds described it best as "looking like a door knocker". I think he nailed it! ltms

Above: Step one, I ran it through the gears and checked the crank and brakes as well. The derailleurs are working as well as can be expected. Same goes for the brakes, working pretty well considering the cables are semi froze up and the shoes are rock hard. There is a little grind in the crank, hopefully it is just dry and a little too tight. Good news is the crank spins straight. Headset is also stiff with a little grind, again probably just dry. I wont know for sure until I take the crank and headset apart.

Above: The crank smoothed right out as soon as I loosened it up, even though the grease is pretty much shot. The same goes for the threaded headset. The cups and bearings look fine. It just sat so long the hardened and dried up grease has stiffened everything up a bit. After a real good cleaning and re greasing I am positive every thing will be really smooth. I may be replacing the road crank set if it does not clean up really well. It looks cheap to me. And if it does not improve 100% after refurbishing, then it is gone.
Above: Not everything here will be refurbished. But I will keep it all somewhat organized until I can figure out what will be refurbished and what is going to the metal recycling guy and what might be saved. Quick Tip: Before you toss a broken or damaged component, remove any small parts like barrel adjusters or limit screws, springs, cable anchors etc. etc. You will be glad you did. I am constantly making good use of little bits I have saved over the years.

Above: I have decided to repaint the mixti frame and fork. For this reason I have removed the head badge and the frame mounted barrel adjuster for the rear brake. The barrel adjuster mounted approximately mid top tube(s)is unique to the Mixte style frame. (as far as I know)

Above: To remove the head badge I first removed the upper and lower head-tube bearing cups. Then using a half round metal file, I filed down the rivets from inside the head tube. Next I use an old set of feeler gauges to make a small gap between the head-badge and the head-tube. Now I can slip my mini pry bar behind the badge next to the rivet and gently pop the badge off. When I say mini pry bar, I mean mini. The pry bar including handle is probably less than 3 inches long. It came with a free set of promotional screwdrivers. If I can find one, I will post where it is available. It is an awesome little tool.

Above: I started to wet sand the frame this afternoon. Unfortunately I only had 1/3 sheet of 180 grit wet/dry sanding paper. So I did not get very far. Tomorrow morning I am off to Peter's True Value on M59 just west of town to get some more. I will try to get a pic of the mini pry bar and add it to this post tomorrow. Actually latter today (it is getting late) Until next time please Ride Safely and remember to Always...RESCUE, RESTORE & RECYCLE
Cheers, Hugh
P.S. I will proof read this again tomorrow, hopefully it is not totally incoherent :)
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