Friday, April 2, 2010

Trek 560 Restoration Started

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Above: The right chain-stay and seat-tube were badly scratched.

Above: After the paint was "dry to the touch" I hung it up to to cure.

Above: The fork was scratched much worse than this photograph shows.

Above: I sanded and painted the fork, eliminating the Trek graphics.

Hello and Welcome. This morning I got up early and grabbed the Trek frame and headed off to "Cycle Therapy" in Waterford Mi.I did not have the proper tool for removing the SAKAE 1.37 x 24T Bracket. I tried to improvise. But gave up, fearing that I might damage the bracket or bracket-shell. They were happy to remove the bracket for me. And since they had it apart and on the stand, I asked them if they would go ahead and service it for me. So they did, and for a very reasonable charge.Before leaving I had them order me the correct wrench.It will be there Wednesday. Since I am building this bike for myself, I thought it would be a good investment. Also I picked up 3 sets of cotter pins, which I will no doubt need in the future.
After getting back to my shop/garage I started sanding down the bad scratches on the frame and fork. I use automotive wet sand paper. First rough or course then medium then fine. I can live with a few scratches, but these were severe and the metal was beginning to rust.After finishing the sanding I wiped it down real good making sure to remove all the dust. Then I taped-off the areas I did not want or need to paint. The down tube and most of the top tube are in good shape. This made it possible to save the Trek graphics.And being Glossy Black I was able to match to color,(close enough for me anyway) I`m not to concerned about the paint being perfect.I just wanted it to look decent and not all rusty and scratched up.
That was about it for the Trek today. After dinner the UPS truck showed-up with the parts to finish the Nishiki. The black and gray Velo saddle looks great.And the
bottle cages and micro-adjust seat post look cool too. I also cleaned-up and re-mounted the kick-stand. I know the guy I`m building this bike for will want a kick-stand. Personally I can do without the extra weight. Two things that every casual rider or commuter wants is a comfort saddle and a kick-stand. The Velo saddle
looks pretty good. It appears to be "about" the same quality of the WTB Speed V Saddle that I usually use. I will install the grips tomorrow. I want to save the set that are on it now. So there will be some soapy water and a very small screw-driver involved. Tomorrow I am picking up a Japanese mixte with some nice componants. I may
use some of them on the PACER "Special Edition" I will try to take some pics of the Nishiki Manitoba tomorrow (weather permitting).
Now that I have the paint almost finished and the bracket serviced. The Trek build should be moving right along. Also,I have placed the order for the new tires for the Huffy 10 speed. Once they arrive that will go quick.Basically it will get tires shoes and a tune-up and lube. And a good cleaning/polishing as well.
Well I hope you have a wonderful Holiday. And I hope you get a chance to get out and ride. Till next time, Ride Safe and remember to always RESCUE,RESTORE&RECYCLE.


  1. The cotter pins certainly aren't for the Trek. Do they have identified future homes?

  2. Hey Steve,
    Correct, not for the Trek. I just made a quick count. There are 22 or 23 un-restored bikes in my garage. And three frames hanging from the rafters. And one "clown bike." Three that I spotted (so far) have cotter-pin cranks.One is the 1964 Raleigh "Sports" 3 speed. The other two are a Fuji "English Style" 3 speed and a small BCA Mixte. Seems like just a few weeks ago I was thinking "I`m getting a little low on project bikes" And I have NOT purchased any more "cotter key crank" bikes since my post about how stupid I think they are. Honest! :)

  3. I have a set of Shimano 600 6 speed downtube shifters, rear derailleur and freewheel if you want it. It would be nice on this bike. From experience, the Suntour DT shifters slip once they get older, and the front derailleur bolt strips easily. Becareful =)

  4. Hey Alex,
    Thanks for the advice,I haven`t really even started to clean-up the derailleurs.I have been working on some other projects while the paint is curing. I do appreciate the offer though. I`ll get back to you after I get them cleaned up. I suspect that although this bike is a little scratched up.There are some indicators that it really was not ridden very much. I`ll get into more detail about that latter.Have a great Holiday :)

  5. So I came across this exact same bike today, and my plans are to begin working on it. It was free...left outside of a neighbors house! I have no idea where to start! Any advice?

  6. Hello Brandon,
    Assuming the frame is ok. I would start with the basics head-set and crank. Then wheels then hang a rear derailleur(no cable)and get a basic drive train going. Then stem and handlebars.My thinking is "make sure all the basics work" before buying cables, tires, cork tape,etc.etc. This way, if you find something is beyond(reasonable)repair. You haven`t invested a bunch of time and money. But this is just "my opinion". And my opinion and a $1.25 might get you a small coffee at Speedway. :) Park Tool has a very helpful repair/help section on their web site. You might want to check it out. Also check-out Sheldon Brown. Keep us posted on your progress. Cheers,Hugh

  7. Spoke with the previous owner today. He bought it at a yardsale about two years ago and less then six months ago he payed a LBS to do a tuneup on the bike. He said that as far as he knows the only issue with this bike is the right pedal. It is newer model slide in toe clip pedal and he said that he could not get it to go back on. It was his commuter bike for over a year and a half and the only reason that he stopped riding it was because they moved. Im going to get it out soon to look at the crank and headset. He did inform me that the LBS worked on the derailleur and Cable so Im going to look at it to see what condition it is in. Thanks for the advice and I will definetly keep you up on the progress. -Brandon

  8. Hey Brandon, You may already know this but just in case. Both right and left pedals tighten by screwing the threads towards the front of the bike. Left and Right sides of the bike goes by your right and left as you sit on the bike.The pedals should be marked R and L usually on the end of the threaded post.The previous owner may have mixed them up. Or possibly gotten two L pedals by mistake. The left pedal is always reverse threaded. Good Luck

  9. So when I originally commented on this post 2 years ago I had just stumbled across this bike. Since then I have ridden it quiet a but and really enjoy it. I really wan to replace the wheels and tires in this old stead. I'm a bigger guy (Olympic weightlifter) and never really feel comfortable on it. I
    Thinking a solid set of new wheels and beefier tires might make me feel comfortable. Would it be a "sin" to consider a lower profile cross tire?

  10. Hey Brandon,
    I don`t really know much about Cyclocross. I would think "true cross tires" would be built to take the abuse of cyclocross competition. Therefore I would think they would be a good choice for a larger rider. About low profile tires? I like some rubber between pavement and rim. The lower the tires profile the rougher the ride. After I read your comment I image searched cyclocross tires just to see what came up. I saw a large selection of tread types. So there is a good chance you will find one to fit your needs.
    About it being sinful to "mix it up a little" with your tire and wheel selection. Personally I`m all about doing what works for me and not worrying about popular opinion. I have a Rock Hopper FS Mountain Bike with Phat K West road tires on it. Because I use it as an "all around" go anywhere comfort road bike. And it works great for me. I also just built a single speed / fixed gear commuter "touring style" bike with racks,fenders,lights and front and rear brakes. This bike breaks all the (fixed gear and touring bike) rules. But it is a joy to ride. And the lack of gear selections insures I get a good workout.
    I normally re-hab old wheels for my builds. But I did spring for a new set of moderately priced wheels for the fixed commuter bike. And it was money well spent, it rolls great!
    But if you have any doubts about your selections, check with your suppliers "tech department" before you spend your money.
    Good Luck with your modifications. Let me know how it works out.


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