Saturday, August 21, 2010

Miyata 100 Mixte Restoration

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Believe it or Not! The middle chain-stay on the drive-side is supposed to be bent. When I first noticed it I freaked-out a little. Then I located another one on the net. The owner was wondering the same thing I was.
The head-set cups and bearings were in excellent condition. I had purchased a bike form this owner before, So I was not surprised to see the bike had received regular service. Joe was the original owner of my Fuji Gran Tourer SE. Which now proudly resides in the Old Ten Speed Gallery "Hall of Fame"

The front wheel polished and trued. Also axle and bearings removed and de-greased and re-greased. Now it`s ready for a new Kenda K35 27 X 1&1/4 gum-wall.

A nice view of the rear derailleur (SunTour AR) and the SunTour free-wheel. All cleaned up with "White-Lightning" by Clean-Streak. I did eventually remove a few links from the new chain.

The Miyata is equipped with SunTour AR derailleurs and SunTour stem mounted shifters. I wonder, are the AR`s a step down from the ARX`s that were on the Nishiki Sebring?
Here is the crank/chain-rings broke down and cleaned, ready for re-assembly. Not shown here but the dust caps say "Miyata cotter-less crank."  It must have been the first year they did this model with a cotterless system.

Here are two of my favorite up-grades, a micro-adjust seat post and  and a comfort sport saddle. This was the first time I have used this particular saddle (and probably the last)

I think I`m starting to get the hang of this modern method of taping handlebars.  As you can see this is the bike I was restoring when I did the post about eliminating suicide levers. So far they are working well and staying together quite nicely.  I gotta admit, Steve was right about the gum-hoods.Even finished-off neatly, gum hoods would have looked better.

The Miyata 100 mixte finished. Over-all I`m happy with the project, although I am not completely sold on the new saddle yet. I may be making a change "real soon".

Well that`s about it for the Miyata. Right now I am building a commuter bike with fenders and a rear rack. It "might" even get a vintage fork-mount generator light. I usually take stuff off bikes not add to them. But having seen some cool commuter bikes lately, I decided to try to build one. Wait till you see the rear fender! I tried something different, I think you might like it. (Very Ness like)
I should be posting it (commuter) mid to late week. Till Next Time! RIDE SAFE and remember to always RESCUE-RESTORE&RECYCLE Cheers,Hugh

Saturday, August 14, 2010

Nishiki Sebring Pictures

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The Nishiki frame looking a little rough. The fork blades were the worst

I taped-off the crown and re-painted the blades after sanding.

After de-greasing and cleaning the head-set is ready for re-assembly.

Arm shown left was replaced, chain-ring was taken apart and cleaned/polished

Finishing up the front wheel, almost ready for some new rubber

At this point the crank is rebuilt, I have started touching up the frame and decals
The front caliper is ready for cleaning and polishing

The Nishiki is beginning to come together. I love the Charge "Spoon" saddle
I ordered Dia-Compe levers to match the DC Calipers. They need polishing
I found the SunTour ARX derailleur on e-bay to match the rear & the shifters

I like the Well-Go pedals (Shimano 105 knock-offs) they look "period correct"
Well that`s the Nishiki Sebring. Far from perfect, But a huge improvement compared to the abused and neglected bike that I found at the Sally Store.
Who ever had serviced the crank had it really screwed up. They did not thread the drive side in all the way. (I suspect they started on the wrong side) Because of this mistake it had no retainer ring on the left side. As it was threaded in all the way to compensate for the drive side being out about 3/16
Then when the left pedal arm got loose. Instead of removing the dust-cap and tightening the retaining nut, they just kept riding it. This elongated the hole.
That is why I had to scrap the left side arm. I was very lucky to have a matching one on hand. I can`t wait to take it for a real ride. Now that the heat-wave is coming to an end. That should be real soon.
Till next time, Ride Safe and remember to always RESCUE, RESTORE & RECYCLE

Sunday, August 8, 2010

Suicide Levers! We don`t need no STINKING Suicide Levers!

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Above: Obviously the first thing you will want to do is remove the suicide lever. This usually requires the biggest Slotted or Phillips-head screwdriver in the toolbox. Save those levers and bushings (and the tiny spring) you never know when you might need them for a future project. Next Step. Cutting the post off flush
Above: I Do NOT RECOMMEND you use a cutting wheel this large. In fact I would recommend you use a non-powered hack saw. Be careful to avoid scratching the lever body any more than necessary. One of those mini hack-saws will be a good choice, they are much easier to control. But if you to scratch it up don`t worry, that's the next step.
Above: After the post has been cut-off, sand the area down with #600 automotive grade sandpaper. This will minimize the scratching and smooth-out the rough edges on the cut. If the scratching is bad try #400 sandpaper first. You will still need to finish with the #600 sandpaper.
Above: Now wipe off the dust and polish with "Mothers". Now it is starting to look like something. But we need to do something about the hole.
Above: Take the lever body with you to the Hardware Store. I went to Peter`s Hardware in the west part of Highland on M59. These are all the choices I found that fit. The top two are Allan head screws. These might be a good choice if you cut is neat. The next four are little push-in caps (white and black). These too look good, but don`t cover enough (for my taste). The final one is an automotive push-pin. This one appears to be the correct size to cover the hole and the cut.
Above: I had to snip the last two fins off with scissors because it was a little to long. But after that it worked just fine. Check the depth before inserting the push-pin, because they only grab really tight the first time.
Above: The push-pin is trimmed to the proper length. Yours may be slightly different so definately measure first.
Above: I`m liking that (:
Till next time, RIDE SAFE and remember to always RESCUE,RESTORE&RECYCLE
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