Hello and Welcome,
I am feeling much better since throwing my back out Christmas day (evening). I am back in training as well. Today (Jan 7th) was my first real day back working in the shop. I did manage to do a little bike hunting earlier in the week which resulted in me purchasing yet another unicycle. It looks almost exactly like the Landis I sold, except it is a 24in wheel size and has a different saddle. I believe I left off with the rear derailleur on the Mt Jam, so we`ll pick up the over-haul / detail-job there.
Shimano SIS rear derailleur cleaned-up nicely and looks good re-mounted on the bike. For now I am leaving the derailleur guard off. I did not replace the derailleur cables as they look like they had been replaced recently. I did trim the end of the cable and install a new crimp-on (cable end). I really want to avoid messing with the grip-shift type shifters if possible, so far so good.
front derailleur which is mounted on the cartridge type or sealed bottom bracket assembly. I removed the crank for cleaning and to get a good and first look at this type of front derailleur mount. This generated a little bit of chatter on the face-book page as I suspected it would. Thanks to John Fink and others who commented on the unusual front derailleur mounting system. As I suspected it locks the height in when this mount is used. The drawbacks are, there is no height adjustment. Which would really limit your chain-ring size options that you could use with this set-up. Also it looks rather bulky and is probably heavier than a typical clamp or braze-on mount. But it is interesting none the less. And it does have it`s advantages as well. For instance, No guessing at the derailleur height. And I would think it is very sturdy as well, No small thing on a mountain bike.
White Lightning Clean Streak. Before it has a chance to dry I brush it with the parts brush and re-spray. It was necessary to repeat this a few times to get it really clean. And I keep the spraying to a minimum and try to keep my distance as much as I can to avoid inhaling the fumes. I will spray a light coat of Tri Flo Lubricant on both derailleurs latter on.(out side)
Mother`s Mag and Aluminum Polish. I have some nice take-offs I can use for pedals. As the originals are very small.
triple crank set or chain-rings and arms all cleaned and polished. All I need to do at this point is re-mount the clear bash guard. I cleaned the bash guard with the Simple-Green biodegradable de greaser.
24 inch front wheel.
Armor All Cleaning Wipes. I even used them to clean the outer spacer/cones on the axle.
The front hub (cones) was set a bit too tight. So after checking the grease, I re-set it a little looser. (no grind, but no play as well) As my friend Mike A taught me so many years ago, Tighten the cones until you feel the slightest grind then back-off the cone nut about an 1/8" then check.
wheel truing stand to service the front wheel. This wheel had about 1/8" of wobble in three or four spots around the rim. I trued the wheel down to a 1/16" or less wobble at any point around the wheel.
These were all very slight adjustments to the spokes. I don`t think I turned any spoke more than about an 1/8th. If the wheel does not re-act when you tighten a spoke an 1/8th (for slight wobble) and if the spokes feel tight on both sides. Try loosening the spoke on the same side that the rim is rubbing the pin about an 1/8th". Truing wheels is something you can practice on any old wheels you may have laying around.
derailleur cables, the brake-cables were in rough shape. Here you can see where the cable has frayed at the clamp or anchor point. This tells me they have been adjusted one to many times and need to be replaced. Quick Tip* To remove this frayed cable, pull back the rubber boot and cut the cable on the inside of the clamp or anchor. Frayed or not, I always cut a brake cable here that I know I am going to replace. This just speeds up the process of removing the wheel and the cable at the "lever end" of the cable. Obviously you do not want to do this if you plan to re-use the cable.
barrel adjuster and aligned the grooves or slots so I can slide the cable out. To remove this type cable you will need to open or squeeze the lever exposing the harness that holds the barrel shaped cable end. You just aline the cable with the slot in the harness and then you can work the cable free.
reach adjustable brake levers and you want to adjust the levers inward (for smaller hands) do this now. If you do it afterwards you will need to loosen the anchor or cable clamp and re-adjust. Also make sure all your cable ends are in the cable guides before tightening the anchor clamp. If you miss one of these,you will have to loosen and re-adjust the cable to fix it.
cable lubricant (inside) before you insert the cable into the housings. I like to use (Polaris) snowmobile "cable and clutch lubricant" because I live in a colder climate. I use one drop in the short housings and two in the longer ones. Same goes for derailleur cable housings as well.
Velo Saddle was split along the bottom edge on both sides. I decided to replace it with a Ze'Fal Saddle. This way the new owner or I can add a clip on Ze'Fal under-seat bag for a mere 9.99 US. The original saddle was quite small. But being we are the "fattest country in the world" I am not at all concerned about the replacement saddle being much larger.
Park Citrus Chain Cleaner and it did a wonderful job. I also re-used the micro adjust seat post, after removing the scratched-up black paint finish. The pedals are some slightly used Well-Go resin take offs.
7 speed freewheel and chain. Notice how new the derailleur cable looks. Trimming the end of the cable allowed me to disconnect it so I could lube all the derailleur cable housings as well. I did not want to assume that who ever replaced the cables, lubed the housings.
I hope everyone had a wonderful Holiday Season. My back is feeling 100% better and I am back on my stationary bike and doing a "light weight" upper body workout and doing bunches of mini crunches. Thanks for all the well wishes. They really helped me get motivated!
Until next time, Please Ride Safe and Remember to Always RESCUE, RESTORE & RECYCLE