Hello and Welcome, Working on "tank bikes" is new ground for me. I was part of the Schwinn Sting Ray to Big Fat 10 Speed generation. This Road master arrived minus wheels, block pedals, chain and a front fender also the headlight shroud was broken. It needed some rust removal and polish as well. Piece of cake! Normally I would have "taken a pass" on a bike like this one. But the young lady has been a regular customer and has brought me some good restore able bikes in the past. So what the heck, it is time for a change. I need to get out of the fixed gear mode I have been stuck in lately. At least for a while.
bicycle saddle. The wheels and pedals look fine but will need refurbishing. I do not like the idea of a Schwinn saddle on a Roadmaster. That I will change. First order of business is to find the headlight. If I can not locate one. there would be no point in continuing this project.
Turtle Wax "Chrome Polish & Rust Remover". Afterwards I did the sidewalls (braking surface on a modern bike) with the "fine" brass wheel- brush mounted on the 18 volt rechargeable drill/driver. That is the only way to do the side walls, much faster and easier than hand brushing. I also cleaned up the hubs using the detail brush and the Turtle Wax.
coaster brake hub myself. I don`t remember seeing a single speed hub with an oil port before. Also it has a "MARK IV" coaster brake. I`m more the "Bendix Brake" generation. I called Joe at American Cycle & Fitness in Pontiac Mi. and asked how much he would want to clean it out and lube it for me. About 20.00 . OK! Remembering my last experience with a (Chinese) coaster brake hub, I decided to let the "Old Pro" take care of it. After Joe told me about the internal roller-bearings and springs I knew I had made the right call. Joe does not know this but, he IS my "Go to Guy" for all things old and especially "old Schwinn". You might remember Joe, He was the only one who still had the correct removal tool for the ancient free-wheel on the 1969 Parliament. I regretted that I had to leave the wheel there, I was hoping to "watch and learn". But they were busy and I had commitments. By the way Joe said "It is a very high quality hub" and added "They don`t make them like that anymore."
Shop Vac and a Swiss Army knife to assist in the cleaning. The housing was full of dead bees (Shop-Vac). And the crud on the pressed in race was so hard the Mothers needed a little help freeing the old hardened grease (knife). I thought this must be the worst part of the job and the rest will probably be a breeze :) Yeah right!
White Lightning "Clean Streak" and my "Parts Brush". The brush literally fell apart as I finished the 1 piece crank. At least the parts brush did not die in vain.
Mother's Mag and Aluminum Polish on the sprocket teeth to loosen that "God Awful" grease. And Turtle Wax Chrome Cleaner & Rust Remover on the crank and arms, it came out looking pretty good.
threaded headset as well. After using Mothers and still having grease lines I decided it was time to try something else. The rotary tool with the fine mini "wire wheel-brush" did the trick. I needed to use the mini LED Flashlight to see what I was doing in there. The bearing cartridges were the same, lots of White Lightning and lots of brushing. Well Thank God the crank housing and headset were finally finished! Time to move on to something else. This was my first experience with 50 year old grease. Damn and I thought 30 year old grease was tough. hah!
brass detail brushing. Finally I`m getting somewhere. Little did I know that I had a whole new set of problems lying ahead. Imagine that.
beach cruiser style or touring handlebars and stem cleaned up nicely. I did have to replace the stem bolt and wedge nut. It did not want to come apart and while hitting it with a hammer (using a piece of wood to protect the nut head) I apparently stripped the threads on the stem bolt. The wedge nut was corroded so bad I decided to replace it as well. But that was not a big deal as I had plenty of old stems to steal parts from.
26 inch Beach Cruiser Whitewall Tires. Look closely and you can see I cut the brace/bracket deeper where the fender bolts up into it. I also made sure that the struts were raised as far as possible by making sure I used every bit of the elongated mounting holes. I also did this where the fender attaches the the brace behind the crank housing. I made sure I had it up as high as possible. I raised the rack the same way by using every bit of the elongated holes on the racks struts. This also allowed me to draw the fender up higher using a new bolt where the fender attaches to the rack deck. I also cut off all the excess I could from the mounting bolts inside the fender. Another problem was chain length. With the larger tires there was no room left to adjust the axle back farther in the rear drop-outs. So the chain length had to be near perfect. I also trued the wheels so they had little to no side to side movement. Even after all that "due to the tire not being perfect" I still had a tiny bit of rub on the inside forward chain stays.
single edge razor blade. I removed the outside tread on both sides of the rear tire being "very careful" not to remove too much rubber. I had noticed by looking at the dirt on the tire, that the "contact patch" did not include the outside treads on the tire. The "contact patch" is the part of the tire that actually makes contact with the pavement. So what I did was round off the tire just enough for it to spin freely between the forward inside chain stays. Above is the tire after I shaved it. The upside is the tire still has the "phat" look. And it finally spins free!
Beach Cruiser Saddle and I think this saddle fits the bill. It`s not like this bike will used for any serious touring. "It is what it is" a classic cruiser.
Riding in the Cold with Moonlight for Company
6 hours ago