Hello and Welcome, I was recently contacted by one of my best customers and face book friends Laura about restoring her dads old Schwinn road bike. I was told they thought the fork might have been bent and she wanted to know if I could repair and possibly restore it. Of course I said sure no problem. I was expecting a Continental or Varsity or possibly a La Tour.
front and rear derailleurs and the freewheel. I had also removed the handlebar tape and padding. Having never seen or heard of the World Voyageur I assumed that Laura's dad had done a bunch of really cool upgrades. I was surprised to see a few other World Voyageurs on the Old Ten speed Gallery that also had all the same cool stuff. I had no idea that Schwinn had ever built a bike this beautiful. The frame alone is amazing by itself. Especially when you are talking about an early to mid 1970's Schwinn. And the light weight three piece crankset and bar cons! This is unbelievable.
Jag Wire derailleur cables it was time to see if she will go through the gears. At first it only had a three gear range on the rear derailleur. But after re setting the high and low gear limit screws it was shifting fine. The idea in doing this work first was to see if the bike could be made to function properly with the existing components. The front derailleur was the same story
after it was cleaned, lubed and adjusted it worked perfectly. So far So good.
Jag Wire X-Caliper Brake Shoes.
Center Pull Caliper Brake and have the cable hanger in place and I am pulling the slack out of the main cable. I use the quick clamp to hold the caliper shut while I pull out the slack and tighten the cable anchor with the 3 way. I am holding the cable taut by clamping on with needle nose pliers. Just before tightening down the anchor I will turn the pliers to make sure the cable remains taut during tightening. Afterwards I tightened the anchor using two open-end box wrenches. Also if you look in the top right corner of the pic, you see the barrel adjuster for this caliper. Notice that the barrel adjuster is screwed all the way down. This way I have room for adjustment down the road when the cable stretches or the brake shoe wears down a bit.
Imagine if you will that my right hand is holding the pliers and my left is ready to turn the three way. But as usual I am actually holding the camera in my right hand. lol
fine brass wheel brush then polished. And the straddle cable would be replaced with a new one.
Shimano Dura Ace crank is fantastic! At this point I had only cleaned it up on the bike. I was just trying to get the drive train functional, which I did. But I was not quite ready to get into the bottom bracket or threaded headset just yet. As it turned out I was right to be cautious.
front caliper brake and front wheel. At this point I decided to clean up the frame some more. Notice this side of the headset does not look to awful.
White Lightning Clean Streak about a 1/2 roll of paper towels. And also a few hours labor. Well now that it does shift and the rear brake is hooked up I just had to ride this mess and see how it felt. It was the oddest feeling bike I have ever ridden. It felt like it was dog tracking (the front and rear wheels are not in line) And you could tell the geometry of the front end had been disturbed it just felt out of the norm. And I also noticed the left pedal felt bent, so I swapped pedals and tried it again. The left pedal still was not right. Now I am sure the left crank arm is bent as well. And that is (was) a damn fine crank-set. Maybe I`ll find a left side arm for it someday.
handlebars are cool but might be slightly bent, really not sure yet. So I am giving her 50.00 for the bike. Which is probably stupid for reasons I won't get into here. Oh well another lesson learned. Go over every square inch of the bike twice "before" you do anything.
fork crown the original green. I am very pleased with the results, but I do have to give the paint 48 hours to cure before reassembling the front end of the Parliament. It is sold and hopefully we be going to it`s new home Monday.
Flat Black Rust-Oleum Enamel Primer on the Raleigh Sports frame. I am using black primer because I will be painting it the same black enamel that I painted Brian's Raleigh
Sprite. I will also be doing the same gold detail around the lugs. Just for the sake of doing something different, I probably will do the rear fender tip white. (as stock) After I get the frame and fork painted I will start working on the bicycle fenders (mud guards) and chain guard. I want to get the fork back on the frame a.s.a.p. so I can see if my possible replacement front fender will work.
Scotch Blue painters tape and trimmed off the excess with a X Acto Knife.