Hello and Welcome, This will probably be my last post for 2012. Before I start, I would like to wish you all a Safe and Happy Holiday Season. And a Healthy, Happy and Prosperous New Year as well.
rear rack with collapsible side baskets. It weighs a ton, but I fell in love with it right away. I was like a kid with a new Transformer action figure. There is no way I would use a rack this heavy for this project. However, there is also no way this rack will leave the shop/garage! It will be mine!
Shimano BR CT91 M brakes on the internet. Now it seems logical that the CT 91 would be the replacement for the defective CT 90. But I decided to call Shimano first just to confirm. The lady on the phone at Shimano "bike division" assured me these are the proper replacement. So back to the E Bay to order the new brakes. So while I am waiting for the new brakes to arrive, lets see what other trouble I can get myself into.
threaded Headset is all reassembled with the threaded race screwed down into place, not too tight or loose. Above that goes the cable hanger/bracket then a spacer/washer then the cap nut. As always you want to make a note of the proper order in which to install the various washers and brackets etc. etc. BEFORE you take yours apart. For a more detailed threaded headset rebuild, Just search "rebuild threaded headset" using the "Search This Blog" feature located in the right column near the top, just below the followers.
sealed bottom bracket using the sealed bottom bracket removal tool. All I did was remove the unit and clean up the outer surfaces. Then I cleaned out the bracket shell itself. Since the bracket spindle turns smoothly inside the unit with no grind or play, there is no point in replacing it now. So here I have wrapped the threads once with Teflon Tape (optional) Then after applying the smallest amount of grease to the bracket shell's (female) threads. I can now thread the unit back into the shell.
Shimano triple crankset. You might have to blow this pic up to see the details. Laura pointed out what appeared to be broken teeth on the large chain-ring. On closer inspection I noticed at 180 degrees the same pattern of shorter sprocket teeth. So I did an image search for Hyper Drive crank and found another crank with the same pattern of shorter teeth. I suspect this somehow results in smoother or quicker chain-ring changes or shifts. What got my attention first was the teeth did not feel like they had been broken. And the crank spins pretty straight. I would think an impact hard enough to break off sprocket teeth would have had enough force the bend the chain ring. So if you are familiar with this crank type please feel free to leave a comment.
pedals. I have my doubts that these will perform well in wet and or cold conditions.
Armor All cleaning wipes do a really good job. And working inside it is much more convenient than having a bucket of soapy water or spraying bio de greaser in the house. Here I am also removing the brakes and cleaning up the posts. This will save a little time when I am ready to to install the new brakes.
drop handlebars. The alloy road stem pictured was salvaged from her Dads old Schwinn World Voyageur. You might remember the World Voyageur, I stopped restoring it after discovering the frame had been compromised. I wasn't too deep into the restoration when I spotted the problem. So it really wasn't that big of a deal. Hey, You can't save them all.
Park Tool three way tool. If you do not already have one of these, and you work on bikes you really should get one. And while you at it, you might want to also get the little three way socket. Both wrenches have the most common sizes for brakes and derailleurs. When removing the arms and springs I take notice of which hole the spring is inserted in on the frame. On this bike they were all inserted into the center hole.
straddle cable. Not this time. Here someone has designed a teeter-totter style lever. The rear brake cable comes up from below and connects on the right side (front) of the lever using a barrel shaped Knarp that is cradled. Now a second short brake cable connects the opposite end of the teeter tooter to the straddle cable. So when the brake lever is pulled the right side of the teeter totter lever is pulled downward. This raises the left end (rear) of the teeter tooter lever. Which is connected to the straddle cable by the second shorter cable, closing the cantilever brake arms. If you were to ask me what think of this set up? I would say "That is taking the long way around the block" It IS "kind of cool" in its own way though.
7 speed cassette unit. Laura did a fine job cleaning up the rear rim. Which after cleaning up the front wheel I can tell you was no easy task. But I needed to clean and free-up this cassette. The amount of crud in between the gears was about as bad as I have ever seen. I will also remove the axle and cones and bearings and clean everything up and replace the bearings. After giving the cassette unit a good spray with "White Lightning Clean Streak" I go between all the gears using the scraper (above) in a saw like motion. I had to repeat this a few times. I also sprayed heavily between the pie plate and the cassette. Then used a rag on edge (also in a saw like motion) and worked my way around. This also had to be repeated a few times. Once everything looked clean I went between the gears with a rag edge working my way around, again in a saw like motion.
Mothers Mag and Aluminum Polish had very little (if any) effect. This was an absolute first for me. So I found my fine brass wheel brush and mounted it on the DeWalt high speed drill and went to work. Afterwards I touched up around the spoke nipples using FINE automotive grade wet sandpaper. After which I gave the rim a quick polish with Mothers. Cleaning out the front hub and replacing the bearings was 100% easier than the rear hub. And as you can see the wheel now looks pretty good. When purchasing replacement bearings you want to look for Grade 25 Ball Bearings . This is the highest rating for steel ball bearings.