Before I get started I would like to congratulate Brian and Laura who recently announced their engagement. Why would I mention that here you may ask? Well Laura and Brian are my two best and favorite supporters. Between the two of them they own five (maybe six) of my bicycles. And they always bring me coffee when they come to visit. And I might add, It is Very Good coffee. And it just so happens that I took the L.L. Bean bike in on trade from Brian when He took home the Giant Attraction. Brian is also the owner and financier of the Rusty Raleigh bike. BELOW
white Cinelli Gel Cork tape. And then see if I can locate some affordable white track pedals too. But before any of that can happen I`ll need to rebuild the headset and bottom bracket.
Crown Race" (A) and the "Lower Headset Bearing Seal" (B)are both in fine shape as are the upper and lower bearing cups on the head-tube. And the Headset Bearings look real good too. The cups just wipe clean with a clean rag. I will however need to degrease the bearings before I can regrease and install them in the upper and lower cups.
White Lightning Clean Streak. I use a cheap strainer and pot purchased at K Mart for de greasing small parts. I just stuff a few dirty paper towels in the pot then place the strainer in the pot. Then I place the parts in the strainer and spray with Clean Streak. I also wear surgical gloves and have a parts brush for the really dirty parts. Using the parts brush allows me to use much less Clean Streak.
threaded headsets you will find a nub on the spacers and brackets that fits into a groove or channel (K) in the back of the Steerer tube. I think this is done for two reasons. First if the spacers above the threaded race can not turn because they are locked into position they will not turn when you tighten down the cap nut. Which means the spacers will not turn the threaded race (while tightening the cap nut) throwing the threaded race out of proper adjustment or torque. Also the nub and groove keeps the cable guide bracket or reflector bracket on center front when tightening. NOTE: This system does NOT always work very well. I like to hold the threaded race in position with a wrench while tightening the cap nut.
road bike set up and changed both the stem and crank set.
Tektro Front Cable Hanger attaches to the front and center fork crown using the (caliper brake mounting or mudguard mount) hole that is already there. Of course the hole on the rear side of the fork crown is too small for the inset nut. So I will need to drill it out.
DeWalt keyless chuck 3/8 drill. Before drilling a put a drop of motor oil on the drill tip. I will repeat this a couple times while drilling the hole. The oil will stop the drill tip from overheating and dulling. Also this is not one continuous hole through the crown as the crown is hollow. So it wont take long to drill the hole. You will however need a quality drill bit that is rated for drilling metal. I will not need to drill out the front hole on the fork crown.
stem for it's short reach. This is a larger frame so I want to keep the handle bars in a little closer. Also the stem is fairly tall. This is good for me as I will be riding in a semi upright position. And the "flop and chop bars" are also all about hand position and my more relaxed riding position on the bike. I used normal road brake levers for two reasons. One they are salvaged (almost free) and while not visually as nice as some other choices, I found this set up very comfortable on my single speed / fixed gear "flat land commuter" bike. On this bike I put a lot of thought into the brake cable routing which was not "all that good" on the single speed flat lander.
WTB Speed V Comp is "and has been for a while" my affordable comfort sport saddle of choice. And I thought if I go with the black and whatever color saddle I would go with the darker handlebar wrap as well.
Shimano Altus rear Derailleur for another I had salvaged that looks a little nicer. I spent more than a little while cleaning up the free wheel. It was pretty rusty. (surface rust) I was surprised how nicely it did clean up. I did not see the leaf up in there until after I took this picture. I picked up that leaf on one of my test rides. It has since been removed. Also I did polish the rims and hubs with Mother's Mag and Aluminum Polish. The spokes I wiped clean with Armor All cleaning wipes. The multi speed Schwinn chain is new. I have noticed lately that the lube that comes on the entry level chains feels like greasy crud someone scraped off the factory floor. I am not at all pleased about this.
Shimano Altus front derailleur, or at least the one that was on the bike when I took it in on trade. So I have Shimano Altus front and rear derailleurs.
twist grip shifters. I replaced those with this Falcon stem mount dual shifter. I took it apart (one side at a time) and removed the rust using the fine brass wheel brush. These should work well with my semi upright riding position. I used my (low speed) Black & Decker 18 volt cordless drill driver for the wheel brushing. Brass brushing with a high speed drill tends to toss small parts across the room. Some never to be seen again. ltms
road crankset square taper which must have come off a Schwinn Sprint or something similar. I polished it up with Mother's. It appears to be a very low mileage crank. I am hoping to upgrade the crank in the not too distant future.
white Origin 8 Pro Track Lights can be had for 23.99 (at the time of this build) on Amazon.com. I did see them cheaper (about 22.00) But with the free shipping on my combined order Amazon was the best deal overall.
Jag Wire Mountain Bike brake shoes. I did polish up the cantilever arms but unfortunately a few of the mounting bolts were badly corroded. I think I might be able to replace these if the ones I have in mind are the correct size and length.
tubular rear rack to another bike. You might want to check out the Axiom Journey rack as well. A very nice rack for the price.
Above: The L.L. Bean bike pretty much as it looks today. I did add one more accessory that I will talk about on a future post.