Friday, July 9, 2010

Fuji s10s Restoration Complete

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Above: The Fuji s10s is finished at last. The micro adjust seat post showed up a couple days ago. And today the brown Charge Spoon Saddle showed up. I finally found a supplier who had these in stock, so I ordered two. And after speaking to the supplier about the saddle, I ordered two more. It took me a long time to find a saddle with the style and look I wanted.(at an affordable price) But when I tried to order one, They were always "on back order." So when I located someone who had just purchased "all they had" (50 units) I decided to stock-up. So now I have 3 more in brown and one in black.That should hold me for a while.

Above: The Fuji S10S shortly after it arrived. I scavenged the levers for another project. I had already decided that I was going to use aero brakelevers on this project. The idea was to take it from "classic commuter" to "classic road racer".

The brakes (mostly the front one) turned into a problem. I did not want to use the center-pull brakes with the aero-levers. I new the cable routing to the front brake would be a problem. So I ordered a new set of Tek Tro side pull caliper brakes. This would make for a nice clean installation with minimal exposed cable. In My Dreams Maybe! Of course the brakes did not fit. So no problem, I`ll just refurbish and re-use the center-pull brakes it came with. Only one problem, I had already installed the original levers on another bike, which I So I guess it is true "Necessity IS the Mother of Invention" So I came up with this slightly modified V Brake Noodle. The idea being, to get the cable to the front brake caliper with a minimum amount of exposed cable. Anyway it worked "Thank God"

Above: This fork had a scratch on both sides of the bike, probably from rubbing during transport. Normally I would touch it up with black nail-polish or just re-paint the road fork. I decided to try to use the unused tape with the Cinelli logo on it. This tape is supplied for doing the end of the handlebar tape. I`m "old school" I don`t use tape to secure either end of my cork tape. I know that is "How it is Done" these days. Well in my day, it was not done that way. We would sometimes use a small piece of "starter tape" which would be hidden. But there was "No way in Hell" we would have ever wrapped the end (or ends) with electrical tape. I`m talking about the mid 1960`s to the early 1970`s. I remember a few years ago when I got back into the bicycling world. I saw some bars taped with the ends secured with what looked like electrical tape at a high-end bike store. I asked the young man there "What the hell is this?" He explained that it holds the tape in place and that is how it is done. I told him "In my day they would have run you right out the door for doing tape like that". I will admit, I tried it a few times. But I thought it looked like crap! And I still think so. So "screw me" I guess lol The red stripe at the top and bottom of the Cinelli logo tape I cut from 3M Trim Tape with a razor knife and a metal rule. The wave of tropical muggy weather has finally passed. I hope to get busy on the bikes again. I have gotten in a few interesting old bikes this past week. I will be posting them soon. If I offended anyone about the handlebar cork tape thing. Sorry, I`m just telling it, like I see it. Till Next Time RIDE SAFE! and Remember to always RESCUE-RESTORE&RECYCLE
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  1. The problem with wrapping bars with cork from the 'top down' is that the cork curls from the natural pressure your hands put on it.

    In the old days, the tape was cloth or vinyl, and it wasn't prone to curling.

  2. I used to feel as you about tape and so I would tape towards the bar end. I have since given in to modernity and my only concession to elegance is I either use the logo tape or electrical tape in a matching color. BTW, I may try that noodle trick on my cross bike. I'm considering going from the OE V brakes to cantis, and clearance is tight between the hanger and the stem.

  3. Anonymous, I did a little research and you are 100% correct. I`m thinking if I go with the jell tape I should be able to get away with doing it the old way. While jell-tape is not adhesive it does stick to the bars very well.
    I`m am wondering if I could do it the correct way,but find another way to terminate the wrap?
    I`m wondering if crazy-glue might work? There has to be another way to do this. I will do a post about it, if I find another way. Thanks for the comment.

  4. Hey Steve, I won`t repeat myself about the tape.
    Let me know how the noodle works-out.I hope all is well in Texas. We have been having some tropical weather here lately. And it has really been kicking my butt. We are getting a little break as far as the humidity goes. Although the weatherman says it (humidity) will be going back up next week. Oh Joy!

  5. Hi Hugh,

    You wrapped these bars over the top, from back to front. Would it matter if they were wrapped in the opposite direction (over the top from front to back)? That is the direction I've always used, though I've only ever done cloth tape.

    The rig I'm restoring now had foam pads on the drops then wrapped in cork, then again in cloth. Super cushy, but really bulky. For the heavy-duty touring it was used for, it made sense.

  6. Crazy glue and a good hand with an razor knife will work just fine.

    See here, about halfway down the page:

  7. Hey Everett, When I wrap the bars (starting at the top) I always stand in front of the bike wrapping away for my self. I do this because (for me) it makes it easier to maintain tension on the tape. Does it make a difference? I would say no, but I`m sure I would hear about it (: There are some good clips on about wrapping handlebars with Cork or Jell etc etc. I think I`ll will make one of those clips "video of the week" real soon.

  8. Thanks Anonymous, I like my tape to be one continuous piece. Except for the small piece around the bottom of the lever clamp. But I can`t wait to try the crazy-glue. Thanks for passing that along.

  9. It was definitely worth the wait for the brown saddle - really sets the bike off nicely, along with the light colored handlebar tape.

    The information about handlebar wrapping is appreciated, too - I've had questions about this.

  10. Thanks Jay,
    I had "all but given up" trying to find someone who actually had that saddle (Brown) in stock. It all worked out well in the end. The black saddle will look good on the Rampar. Which will also have black Cinelli cork and black Race pedals. I think I will call it "Black and Blue" A tribute to the Rolling Stones. Good to hear the tape info was helpful. I have learned a lot about tape this week. But that`s what this is all about(:

  11. I really like the way you modified that bike. Aero levers seem to be a bit of a speciality of yours, and even though I would normally not put them on bikes of a pre-aero period here it looks really nice. Nice contrast to the oldfashioned centre-pull brakes. Personally I think these work even better than side-pulls so keeping them wasn't that bad.
    concerning bar tape I have also made the experience that modern tape often peels back at the edges. I therefore wrap thick tape from the ends of the bars towards the middle, so the overlapping is positioned away from the hands of the rider and nothing will peel. One has to finish with electrical tape though ;-)
    Keep up the good work, I enjoy your blog very much.
    Martin from Germany

  12. Hey Martin, Thanks, I have to be honest though. The first time I saw a pair of Aero-levers, I had no idea what they were. I hooked them up and taped underneath the cables. Cameron from spotted the bike for sale on craigslist. He posted it on "The Gallery" He had a little fun with it. Asking why I had totally ignored the airy-ness of the aerodynamic levers. I think he called me a "retro-grouch" lol So on my next bike I did a little better and sent him a photograph of it.
    He did point out a few things that I could have done differently. But I took his criticism as good advice. Because that is what it was, Good advice. So if Aero-levers are a specialty of mine, they certainly didn`t start out that way (:
    Lately I have been learning about cork tape.
    One thing I have learned is that things change. And sometime change is for the better. So while I have not yet embraced this new way of taping handlebars. I am working on it. I am glad you enjoy the blog. Thanks for sharing your thoughts and ideas. That is what this (blog) is all about.
    Cheers, Hugh

  13. hugh,
    stumbled onto your blog tonight... what a find... just started out my new hobby of collecting and restoring japanese made bikes... love your posts on the s10-s and the letour... can you point me to any other resources for japanese bikes? thanks

  14. Welcome Tyanai,
    If you haven`t already check-out Also use my links section (above on the left) There is some helpful stuff in there too. Now that you know where we are, don`t be a stranger :)

  15. Casey David NelsonMarch 15, 2012 at 12:59 AM

    This was a great read! I just finished up my Fuji S10-S that I had given to me by a friend. I was wondering what you did for tires and rims. I have the original quick release rims, and have been running into problems with high psi rated tires.

  16. Hey Casey,
    If you are having trouble with the tires blowing off the rims. Your problem might be the IOS size. On a tire there are two sets of numbers the first being the size like 27 X 1&1/4 A typical IOS number would be like 630

    The following is from Sheldon Brown:
    Note on tire/rim compatibility:

    Traditional 630 mm (27 inch) rims were straight side design, but in the late '70s they evolved to a "hook edge" design which would permit the use of higher pressures.

    These days, many 630 mm (27 inch) tires are marked "For hook edge rims only" (some companies use the term "crochet type" instead of "hook edge"...this is the result of poor translation.)

    The fact is that modern 630 mm (27 inch) tires will work on older straight-side rims, but they won't handle as much pressure as they are capable of with hook edge rims.

    Generally, the "rule of thumb" for traditional 630 mm (27 inch) tires is that they should be inflated to 70-75 psi. This shouldn't be a problem with any tire, despite whatever disclaimer the manufacturer puts on the sidewall. However, if you're restricted to this pressure range, you probably shouldn't be running tires narrower than 1 1/8, or preferably 1 1/4, unless you're a very lightweight rider.

    Ok me again: I have always had the best luck with Kenda Gum wall 90 psi 27 x 1-1/4 inch tires tires. Another thing to note is a (27 x 1-1/4) is not the same as a (27 x 1.25)so watch for that as well. But mostly watch the second set of numbers (ISO) on the tire. If both sets of numbers match you should have no problems. And also on older Schwinn tires read their labeling carefully. They might say something like fits S-6 Schwinn wheel.
    I had the worst luck (when I started out) with tires purchased at department or hardware stores. You can take or leave take that for what it `s worth. I hope this information helps you find the correct tires for you wheels. Good luck with your project. Cheers, Hugh


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