Saturday, September 10, 2011

Brittany 3 Speed Restoraton Part 2 Saddle Hardware Rust Removal

Hello and Welcome,
I think I will pick-up on this restoration with the saddle. I don`t really spend much time talking about saddles. I suppose this is because I usually replace them.
I often find these adult bikes that were purchased with good intentions. Then ridden a few times, only to spend the next 25 to 30 years in the garage or basement. Many of these bikes have very good saddles that just need some intense cleaning.
However the touring saddles with chrome springs and rails usually require some serious attention. That is before they are going to look like the original 1984 saddle shown above.
Above: This is the underside of the saddle shown above. To really do the best job possible with rust removal I will have to remove all the chrome-plated hardware for rust-removal. I like to start with the seat-post clamp. Start by by removing the nut (A) and sliding the tightening bolt out the other side. Note:
Most will have a nut on both sides.(like the example used below) In which case remove both. After the tightening bolt is removed the whole thing can be pulled out.(it should fall apart)

Above: A similar seat-post clamp after each part has been brushed. Be careful cleaning small parts with a power brush. This is where a low speed drill will serve you better for brass wheel-brushing. You may want to clamp onto the smaller pieces with pliers to save your finger tips. I like to thread the nuts onto the tightening bolt for easier wheel brushing. Just make sure you run your drill in the direction that will tighten the nut and not loosen it when the spinning brush makes contact.

To remove the coil springs for brushing I removed screws (B) & (C) This will also remove the spreader/brace (E) I just set that aside for now. There is also a nut and washer on the top of each coil that attaches them to the seat pan.(see below)
Below: This pic shows me tightening the coil, it comes off the same way. I used a small 1/4" nut-driver for this. The outer coils clean up easily with a brass wheel-brush. As shown above I clean the unreachable inner spring with a small folded piece of automotive grade sandpaper.
Once the coil-springs are removed and cleaned-up, to remove the rails just remove nut (D). The rails and spreader / brace are easy to clean using the brass wheel-brush. You may also want to use the folded sand paper and a detail brush on the hard to reach spots.

Above: You can see the spreader / brace cleaned up and a wee bit of the rail piece as well. In this pic I am about to set the nut into place to re-attach the coil spring to the pan. If you look closely you can see the washer has already been placed onto the threaded post. After setting the nut I carefully tighten it with an open-end wrench. This takes a very steady hand. An easier way might be to stick a small piece of double-sticky tape on the nut, then place it into a socket.
Then with the nut-driver you should be able to start the nut by hand. Once started
you can use the small ratchet or a small wrench. I wish I had thought of that when I was putting it together. I am sure it would be much easier. Or if you want to "get all scientific" you could magnetize the socket.
Once the coils springs are attached to the seat pan, You have finished the hard part. The rest of the assembly should me fairly simple. Above: The hardware all back in place and looking "pretty good". You will want to clean-up the seat pan when you have all the hardware removed as well.

Above: A shot of the underside of the saddle after it has been remounted to the seat-post. I only mention this because I saw one mounted backwards recently. When you re-install the seat-post clamp the main tightening-bolt should be on the backside of the seat-post. If it is on the forward side of the post the seat-post clamp is backwards.
Above: I know I said I was not going to spend much time talking about the crank and bottom bracket. I lied < lol > I just wanted to mention this "again". The drive side of the bracket is longer than the left side. Sometimes the difference is minimal. So if they look the same, you might want to check them just to be safe. Shown above is the left side.

Above: Here is the drive side. The difference is less than it appears as the tool is a little off the lip. Hey, I was holding the camera in my other hand. But I think you get the idea. Better to "check twice and build once"
Well that about does it for me today. The sun just came out and I have work to do.
Part 3 will be about cleaning / polishing paint. I also want to talk about wheels and pitting (rust) And a first time installation of a product I have never used before. Until next time RIDE SAFE and Remember to Always...RESCUE, RESTORE & RECYCLE
Cheers, Hugh

P.S. Look closely at the first pic of the underside of the saddle. Notice the brace/spreader is mounted between the coil-spring and the rail piece. Now look at the finished pic. I have installed the brace/spreader last or on top of the rail-piece. I don`t know if it matters (I`m not an engineer) but I`m going to correct it anyway. This is a perfect example of how a digital photograph can assist you in proper re-assembly.

1 comment:

  1. That seat picture is exactly what I needed. Found it using Google and now i'm going to read through more of your blog. Good stuff and thank you for all these write-up's.


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